Slide-Out Switch Wiring

[howson]

The following was extracted from a long troubleshooting thread at https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...-only-clicking Info below is too good to "bury" there. Content is edited for brevity but original contributors are credited where appropriate.

Note the switch discussed is on a non CompassConnect (or OneControl) equipped trailer.

This first post showed the switch that was expected. As you'll read that's not what was found.

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The diagram below is from the Electric Through Frame Slide-Out System Service Manual (same place TedS got the other diagram).



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Dave27's response:
The switch isn't like either of these. And the wires aren't color coded! The ground is on the right side by itself in the middle when you look at the back. There are three inline vertically on the left. The middle must be coming from the battery (it measures 12.6 V, same as the battery), and I assume the upper one is to bring the slide in, and the lower one to extend the slide.

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My reply to Dave:
...that explains it very clearly, thank you! GD is using their own switch, not Lippert's, so the manual's diagram is instructive but not definitive.

[gbkims]

My slide out reversing switches look similar on the rear.

[Dave27]

I can see the wire colors from the bottom. Here is a sketch. The ground is in the middle of the three vertical clips.

[howson]

Dave27 ,
gbkims has the right switch. Below I labeled them according to what I measured on my camper.



Measurements (common to V, or black to red on DMM):

1 to 2 = 0
1 to 3 = 13.59v
1 to 4 = 0
2 to 3 = 0
2 to 4 = 0
3 to 4 = 0

Note: I suggest not using the AUTO range on your DMM if there is one. There are very slight mV measurements where I wrote "0" in the chart above. On Auto the observer, if not carefully looking at the scale, can be fooled into thinking there's a higher voltage on those pins.

The lowest I saw the voltage go on my DMM while the kitchen slide was transiting out was 12.44V (and that was at the beginning). Not enough room to measure the slide coming in without removing the switch for better access. When the clutch was slipping the voltage stayed constant.

You already know this based on being back there, but permit me to emphasize to be very cautious around those pins on the back of the panel. Lots of ways to short out 12v and blow a fuse (or worse). Safest strategy is to use the Battery Disconnect to remove 12v from that panel when fussing with it.

Howard

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Dave's response:
Mine must be different, using your numbering system, 2 to 4 = 12.6 v, everything else is zero. So this would mean my ground is 2, positive is 4, and 1 is in/out and 3 is in/out (I don't know which). I am trying to figure out a way to measure the voltage and push the switch at the same time.

[howson]

It shouldn't be different unless that's a different switch in your unit. Wouldn't surprise me at all.

I have alligator clips that attach to my DMM's leads. I was measuring the slide going OUT as configured in the picture.

[TedS]

Howson and Dave27 you are both right. The same switch can be wired to reverse the motor in two ways. The switch will alternately connect the motor to + and - as provided by the crossover jumper connections.

Dave's Wiring



Howard's Wiring