Problematic In-Wall Slide

[dgerfan]

Hi fellow owners,

I need your help diagnosing the clicking/metallic sound that I hear from the left side of the bunk room slide. I find it difficult to actually characterize the sound so I captured a video and uploaded it to YT

https://youtu.be/79am4LHZF44

The quick backstory is that we were staying at a HH for the night and decided to put out all our slides while staying attached to the truck. We have done this before and don’t always remember to verify if we’re level. My reelection is that the parking lot was “mostly” level. Well the next morning when putting in all three slides we noticed the sound coming from the bunk room slide. After further inspection the gear rack showed some scoring on it, the slide was resting on the floor and had gouged one linoleum tile. The other side of the slide had no scoring on the gear rack and wasn't resting on the floor. We tried multiple time to synchronize the motors using Lippert's YT video without any joy. Additionally I recorded the slide control when putting in the slide and don't see any errors coming from it.

I contacted Lippert technical support and explained the issue. Was told that the entire H-column and components on both sides of the slide would need to be replaced. They told me to contact GD for the part # and call them back. Got the part from GD’s customer service and contacted Lippert’s parts department. They couldn’t furnish the part costs because they need to “build” it first in order to determine what parts are needed. A case was opened and I should be contacted in several days with the cost breakdown. As a side when I first spoke with Lippert I inquired what slide technology is more reliable (less problem tickets/warranty claims) between the Through Frame and In-Wall Slide. The individual said they don’t have access to that data only upper level management would have that data and it hasn’t been shared with technical support. Purely anecdotally I would say Through Frame.

From speaking with a couple dealers in the area they would need a week or more to diagnosis and then fix. One of the dealers said they would need to remove the slide and because its winter here in central Arkansas it needs to be done in a bay. Needing to remove the entire slide is puzzling as I have seen several videos of mobile technicians replacing H-columns in the field.

I’m now considering fixing this myself because I don’t want to stay in a hotel for a week or so. My RV Works, Inc. on YT makes it look pretty easy but that doesn’t mean I can do it. I would prefer to call a Mobile Tech to have on standby in case I’m over my head.

Measurements:

11/16" - distance from side wall to outside of slide on the good side
2" - distance from side wall to outside of slide on the problem side
**If I push on the problem slide when the slide is going in the distance changes to 1 1/8"**



Questions:

1.) Could have putting the slide out when not level have caused this issue? Even though the other slides have had this issue the bunk room slide is the deepest.

2.) How hard is it to replace the H-column?

3.) Besides the H-column parts what other supplies/parts should I have on hand. Thinking of specific to thinks like butyl tape, etc…

4.) What slide technology is more reliable - (Through Frame or In-Wall)?

5.) Do you believe both H-columns need to be replaced? The other side isn’t having issues. Replacing everything seems to be excessive. It reminds of me when I worked as a tech for Gateway Computers and we were directed to format and reinstall the OS on ever pc that came in for service regardless if it made sense or not.

6.) I understand that each H-column would need to be replaced individually in order to keep the slide from falling out. How are both sides synchronized after both H-columns are replaced?

[howson]

1.) Could have putting the slide out when not level have caused this issue? Even though the other slides have had this issue the bunk room slide is the deepest.

In the beginning it's stated "the slide was resting on the floor". A Schwintek slide's weight is carried by rollers secured to the floor of the trailer (or sometimes there's a "glide" in lieu of rollers). The weight of the room is *not* carried by the racks. It sounds like a roller failed, is not where it supposed to be. The number of rollers is dependent on the size of the room. The pic below is generic to show what I'm trying to describe.



Could putting out the slide on an unlevel site cause an issue? If the frame of the trailer was twisted due to the unlevel site--maybe. I've put out my bed slide many, many times in unlevel spots while on the road (for a quick nap) and have never had an issue. But (there's always a but)--that slide is relatively small. If the slide wasn't resting on the roller (due to twisting of the frame) when extending...the rack could have failed while carrying the weight. But that's speculation and conjecture on my part.

2.) How hard is it to replace the H-column?

Easy--as long as someone else is doing the work. (Sorry for the sarcasm. Couldn't resist.) Seriously, it could be easy but there's that doggone learning curve since it will be your first time.

3.) Besides the H-column parts what other supplies/parts should I have on hand. Thinking of specific to thinks like butyl tape, etc…

Silicone sealant (apply to the screws before installing) is what comes to mind immediately. Maybe replacement screws as you'll probably find the ones you pull out will be corroded. Use good quality stainless.

4.) What slide technology is more reliable - (Through Frame or In-Wall)?

Anecdotally, I've read more Schwintek threads on this forum than thru-frame, but if you count in all the gouged floors (from the thru-frame slide impacting the interior flooring) it may be a tie.

5.) Do you believe both H-columns need to be replaced? The other side isn’t having issues. Replacing everything seems to be excessive.

The two sides will have to have the same generation motor and gearing/block styles. If Lippert suggests doing both sides, I suspect that will be the reason.

6.) I understand that each H-column would need to be replaced individually in order to keep the slide from falling out. How are both sides synchronized after both H-columns are replaced?

I think that's in the My RV Works video. Definitely in the Lippert documentation. Go to LCI1.com and look for the Documentation under Support. Tunnel down through the options until you find the "In-Wall Slide" options.

Howard

[dgerfan]

howson First thank you for the response! You are always so faithful in trying to help frustrated owners!

The slide has three rollers however I can't inspect them as there is only one inch clearance. Maybe I should purchase a endoscope camera. Either way if there is a problem with a roller the slide would have to be removed entirely to replace the roller, correct? I hope this isn't the case because that's definitely not something I can do in a campground.

With regards to In-Wall slide's reliability, I have read various posts and watched videos of In-Wall slide issue but rarely have seen anyone identify what caused the issue. Mostly seen technicians such as My RV Works and AZ Expert critique how the RV manufacture built the slide and the use or lack of rollers. If Lippert and/or Grand Design are only tracking warranty claims than they aren't seeing the whole issue as most RVers aren't full-time. I would venture to say most don't have issues during the warranty period. Where is the impetus to address quality/reliability issues? To compound this Lippert and GD are justing telling us keep the gear racks clean. Lippert won't even relay how much weight a In-Wall slide can support they just give a large range and point the finger at the manufacture. GD won't tell us how much weight each slide is designed to hold so what are we to do?

For kicks and giggles I contacted GD Sales and asked what current GD RVs under 37ft (as that's our max. length) don't have the In-Wall slide. The only model is the 295RL. For some reason they don't have customer facing information regarding the type of slide(s) on each model. Rant over!

Thanks again!

[Jlawles2]

dgerfan You may be able to look under the lip of the slide when it's fully extended or slightly retracted from full extension to see the rollers. I have the through frame slide and can see the rollers under my kitchen when extended.

You might try when the weather is a bit more reasonable to look at the gears in the wall by moving the rubber flap seals with the room extended or retracted. I suggest a flat plastic or silicone spatula (egg flipping device) inserted between the flap and slide wall to help lift the seal. Look to see if the gear and rollers are in place and engaging the track. Pay special attention to the rollers that capture the track as these are the guide rollers.

I believe there is a large thread on "gibs" and gearing issues with the in wall slide section explaining the inspection points I mentioned. If I find the post I'll link it for you to have easy access.

[howson]

dgerfan You may be able to look under the lip of the slide when it's fully extended or slightly retracted from full extension to see the rollers. I have the through frame slide and can see the rollers under my kitchen when extended.

You might try when the weather is a bit more reasonable to look at the gears in the wall by moving the rubber flap seals with the room extended or retracted. I suggest a flat plastic or silicone spatula (egg flipping device) inserted between the flap and slide wall to help lift the seal. Look to see if the gear and rollers are in place and engaging the track. Pay special attention to the rollers that capture the track as these are the guide rollers.

I believe there is a large thread on "gibs" and gearing issues with the in wall slide section explaining the inspection points I mentioned. If I find the post I'll link it for you to have easy access.

I think you're referencing Dallas' thread? https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...or-sheared-gib

[dgerfan]

Jlawles2 thanks for the info. I will have a look from the outside at the rollers once the snow and ice are gone.

Per Lippert the part cost for both h-columns is $953.95.

[StephenO]

dgerfan - If you are interested, Lippert has some online courses freely available, including one for the Schwintek slide at https://lippert.thinkific.com/collections. Even though I have no intention on replacing the H-columns myself if ever needed, I found the course useful as they go through the construction of the system, replacement, and troubleshooting. If you are planning on doing this work, I would highly suggest you do this course, and plus it's free so all you can loose is your time.

While you are checking out the rollers like Joseph suggested, also double check that the H-column on the 'fixed' side of your slide still has the rivets in place that are used to keep the block from moving. As I learned in the online course, the slide has one side where the bearing blocks are held in place, and a floating side where the block can move left and right to keep engaged on the tracks. If those rivets bust, both sides are free to move, which it's not designed to do.

[Todd_P]

If you have a nice level solid surface to work with it isn't a highly difficult job just involved. If supported well you can remove both H-columns at the same time. I had to do this recently because I was having several problems with my slide since new. In the end, I ended up having to shim the rollers to maintain contact to an out of square room and also shim the tracks also because the room is not square. Further the vertical timing was off and the only way to fix that is to remove the column. After everything was and done, the room operates better than ever and there is no indication the motors are loading up. I did have to replace most of the hardware as well because they were broke and by the corrosion on the broke face they were probably broke during initial installation.
Total time to do the job was right at 16 hours.

[dgerfan]

Jlawles2

Attempted to inspect the rollers using the method you recommended. I quickly realized that it was really hard to pull the slide seal back from the outside and keep it positioned downward in order to inspect the rollers. There is only 1/2" clearance into the cavity where the multiple seals are and the cavity is a couple inches deep.

I had my wife push a plastic spatula from the inside while I was outside looking for it to exit. She was able to push it through the top of the seals (along the bottom side of the slide) however I still couldn't see the rollers. Decided to go back inside and use a flashlight to get a view of the roller on the float side. I couldn't see any issues with the roller of course can only see about 25% of the roller.

[Cheryle]

Stupid question but could you explain the difference between an “in frame” versus “through wall” slide?

Also, is it ever OK to put a slide out partially. I was in a campground and neglected to site the fifth wheel far enough from the electric hookup. I was completely unhooked and leveled before realizing this. I really wanted to leave the slide in about 6 inches - but I didn’t. I hooked back up and moved the trailer. But sometimes, when just stopping over night at a rest stop, there isn’t room to fully extend a slide. Does this damage the slide mechanism?

[Country Campers]

Stupid question but could you explain the difference between an “in frame” versus “through wall” slide?

Also, is it ever OK to put a slide out partially. I was in a campground and neglected to site the fifth wheel far enough from the electric hookup. I was completely unhooked and leveled before realizing this. I really wanted to leave the slide in about 6 inches - but I didn’t. I hooked back up and moved the trailer. But sometimes, when just stopping over night at a rest stop, there isn’t room to fully extend a slide. Does this damage the slide mechanism?

The inwall slide, Schwintek system, will have 2 aluminum rails on each end of the box that moves the slide room in and out, these should operate completely until stopping both in and out and the button held for 5 seconds at each stop to maintain there sync.

The in frame slide or thru frame slide is actuated with a single motor and actuator. These can be stopped at partial as there is no need to sync with a single motor. All hydraulic actuated slides are thru frame. All slides in the top part of a fifth wheel will be in wall Schwintek stye and not thru frame of hydraulic.

Hope that is explained well.

Brian

[ncitro]

Cheryle Keep in mind regardless of design, if any of them are stopped in the middle, the seals aren't engaged. It only seals if fully in or out, so if you leave it not fully expended you can get water or bugs inside.

[howson]

Cheryle -- in addition to Neil's note about the seals, thru-frame slide floors do not have adequate support for regular use until the slide is fully extended. This is easy to verify yourself by (gently) putting some weight on the interior edge floor of a thru-frame slide--you'll feel it "give" underneath the weight.

[StephenO]

I was in a campground and neglected to site the fifth wheel far enough from the electric hookup. I was completely unhooked and leveled before realizing this.

When we first got our trailer, I ran into this situation a couple of times too. To stop it from happening, I took a 'measurement' of the slide by touching the trailer wall with my finger tips and see where the slide edge was relative to my face. Fortunately it lines up with my nose, so it's easy to remember. Now when we are in a campground getting parked, I can just stand beside the trailer, extend my hand and arm, and make sure the post is past my nose.

As you can see, highly scientific, but it gets the job done

[Cheryle]

Thanks to all for furthering my education with good explanations & recommendations!