Trailer Blocks (.com) - Observations and Concerns.

[TucsonJim]

I, along with several others such as Paul & Deb have installed lift blocks from trailerblocks.com to increase the ride height or the tire clearance on our rigs. I installed 1.5" blocks a couple of years ago to give better tire clearance. While changing one of the axles on my 297RSTS, I made some observations which might cause some concern for owners of this lift block system.

The first issue is the tie plate/U-bolt interface. There was obvious deformation of the tie plates and U-Bolts provided by Trailer Blocks as part of their lift block kit. The recommended torque for these components is 124 ft-lb. That is the torque that I applied during the original installation. And when I replaced the first axle about a year ago, I purchased new U-Bolts from Trailer Blocks, and installed them at the same torque value.

In the first photograph, you can see an OEM Lippert tie plate on top, and a Trailer Block tie plate at the bottom. There is noticeable deformation of the Trailer Block tie plate. The LCI tie plate was removed from a previous axle, and had no measurable deformation. I measured the thickness of the two tie plates: LCI = .259", Trailer Block = .182". I will be replacing the Trailer Block tie plates with LCI parts.

In the second photo, you can see the Trailer Block U-Bolts have an observable bend near where they interfaced with the tie plates. It appears that when the tie plate deformed during installation, the U-bolt followed suit and bent at an angle perpendicular to the tie plate. I'm surprised with this result from an advertised Grade 8 U-bolt. In addition, you can also see that there is quite a bit of corrosion on the U-bolt. I'm surprised at this since I rarely drive on wet roads. I'm switching to another brand of U-bolt for reassembly.

In the third photo, you can see that the cap bolt on the lift block is quite corroded. I treated it with Rustoleum Rust Reformer before reinstalling the block on the new axle.

So if you have already installed these components in your rig, I'd suggest an inspection to make sure everything is in good shape before you hit the road again. I'll be sending these photos and comments to Trailer Blocks for their information.

Jim

[Paul & Deb]

Good info Jim. I had mine all apart a year or so ago when I had to replace my springs and they were not damaged like yours appear. I did replace the bolts at the same time with bolts I had custom length and bent by a local spring shop. They still look good. The one thing I don't remember is if there was any rust on the block cap but I think I would remember.

[Cate&Rob]

TucsonJim Paul & Deb

Hi Guys,

This could develop into an interesting discussion. I will be interested to learn the response from the supplier (since, I think I put both of you on to this Canadian supplier way-back-when) . . . even though I ended up going with different springs rather than the spacer blocks.

Jim . . . I am wondering if the deformations that you are seeing, somehow tie into the axle and tire problems that you have experienced ?

Rob

[TucsonJim]

TucsonJim Paul & Deb

Hi Guys,

This could develop into an interesting discussion. I will be interested to learn the response from the supplier (since, I think I put both of you on to this Canadian supplier way-back-when) . . . even though I ended up going with different springs rather than the spacer blocks.

Jim . . . I am wondering if the deformations that you are seeing, somehow tie into the axle and tire problems that you have experienced ?

Rob

I was wondering the same thing Rob. I actually found a photo of when I installed axle Number two. It looks to me like the U-bolts have a slight bend in them right after installation, and before trimming.

And now another issue is driving me a little nuts... I went to order two more tie plates from LCI. The tie plates installed on my 5,200 pound axles are P/N 2139521 (9/16", no shocks). You can see them listed in the first photo. They are item "D". When I clicked on that part number, it shows them as the 9/16" U-bolt tie plate, but it states for axles up to 2,200 pounds!!??. (See Photo #2). Before I proceed, I need to call LCI now to see if I'm reading this wrong. And if I'm not, why did they put an undersized tie plate on my axle?

Everytime I start on a project, I seem to run into a pile unintended consequences.



Jim

[TucsonJim]

Good info Jim. I had mine all apart a year or so ago when I had to replace my springs and they were not damaged like yours appear. I did replace the bolts at the same time with bolts I had custom length and bent by a local spring shop. They still look good. The one thing I don't remember is if there was any rust on the block cap but I think I would remember.

Paul - When I installed the lift blocks on my 337, everything was rock solid. A review of photos on that unit shows no bending. But on the 2017 installation, I encountered this issue. I'm wondering if they changed part suppliers...? It will be interesting to see their input.

Jim

[Paul & Deb]

Well, I can't find definitive pictures but a poor photo shows how my plate and bolts looked after maybe 25,000 miles and then the same plate but new bolts after I repaired my broken spring. I had a few other poorly focused photos of the plates and bolts and there didn't appear to be any deformations either.

It will be interesting to hear what you find out.

Here's a picture before changing out the springs. Not a great shot but the plate and bolts don't appear deformed (not like the spring )



Here's a picture after installing the new spring and the new bolts but original trailblock.com plates.

[Guest]

I, along with several others such as Paul & Deb have installed lift blocks from trailerblocks.com to increase the ride height or the tire clearance on our rigs. I installed 1.5" blocks a couple of years ago to give better tire clearance. While changing one of the axles on my 297RSTS, I made some observations which might cause some concern for owners of this lift block system.

The first issue is the tie plate/U-bolt interface. There was obvious deformation of the tie plates and U-Bolts provided by Trailer Blocks as part of their lift block kit. The recommended torque for these components is 124 ft-lb. That is the torque that I applied during the original installation. And when I replaced the first axle about a year ago, I purchased new U-Bolts from Trailer Blocks, and installed them at the same torque value.

In the first photograph, you can see an OEM Lippert tie plate on top, and a Trailer Block tie plate at the bottom. There is noticeable deformation of the Trailer Block tie plate. The LCI tie plate was removed from a previous axle, and had no measurable deformation. I measured the thickness of the two tie plates: LCI = .259", Trailer Block = .182". I will be replacing the Trailer Block tie plates with LCI parts.

In the second photo, you can see the Trailer Block U-Bolts have an observable bend near where they interfaced with the tie plates. It appears that when the tie plate deformed during installation, the U-bolt followed suit and bent at an angle perpendicular to the tie plate. I'm surprised with this result from an advertised Grade 8 U-bolt. In addition, you can also see that there is quite a bit of corrosion on the U-bolt. I'm surprised at this since I rarely drive on wet roads. I'm switching to another brand of U-bolt for reassembly.

In the third photo, you can see that the cap bolt on the lift block is quite corroded. I treated it with Rustoleum Rust Reformer before reinstalling the block on the new axle.

So if you have already installed these components in your rig, I'd suggest an inspection to make sure everything is in good shape before you hit the road again. I'll be sending these photos and comments to Trailer Blocks for their information.

Jim

Jim,

What is the recommended torque from Lippert or Dexter based on your U bolt diameter and axle tube? Mine are 9/16 with a torque of 60 ft lbs so the 124 torque seems a bit high. Your axle tube will only take so much torque where the tubes are rather thin. From the tie plate bending, this also resulted in the U bolt bending which looks to be too much torque. Trailer blocks does offer an anodized version where I would also consider using a stainless center bolt due to corrosion of dissimilar metals.
My blocks are solid one inch steel where the center bolts are a traditional center bolt but longer where I integrated it to the spring pack. Since the blocks are integrated to the spring, there is only a single point of movement in the system.

Tall spring blocks can add to spring wrap where it may be good to install the V clips on the rear hangers as well.

Jim

[Paul & Deb]

Jim,

What is the recommended torque from Lippert or Dexter based on your U bolt diameter and axle tube? Mine are 9/16 with a torque of 60 ft lbs so the 124 torque seems a bit high.

Jim

Yeah, I'm not sure about this either. I torqued the U-bolts on my 6,000 lb axles to 90 ft lbs.

[Yoda]

I, along with several others such as Paul & Deb have installed lift blocks from trailerblocks.com to increase the ride height or the tire clearance on our rigs. I installed 1.5" blocks a couple of years ago to give better tire clearance. While changing one of the axles on my 297RSTS, I made some observations which might cause some concern for owners of this lift block system.

The first issue is the tie plate/U-bolt interface. There was obvious deformation of the tie plates and U-Bolts provided by Trailer Blocks as part of their lift block kit. The recommended torque for these components is 124 ft-lb. That is the torque that I applied during the original installation. And when I replaced the first axle about a year ago, I purchased new U-Bolts from Trailer Blocks, and installed them at the same torque value.

In the first photograph, you can see an OEM Lippert tie plate on top, and a Trailer Block tie plate at the bottom. There is noticeable deformation of the Trailer Block tie plate. The LCI tie plate was removed from a previous axle, and had no measurable deformation. I measured the thickness of the two tie plates: LCI = .259", Trailer Block = .182". I will be replacing the Trailer Block tie plates with LCI parts.

In the second photo, you can see the Trailer Block U-Bolts have an observable bend near where they interfaced with the tie plates. It appears that when the tie plate deformed during installation, the U-bolt followed suit and bent at an angle perpendicular to the tie plate. I'm surprised with this result from an advertised Grade 8 U-bolt. In addition, you can also see that there is quite a bit of corrosion on the U-bolt. I'm surprised at this since I rarely drive on wet roads. I'm switching to another brand of U-bolt for reassembly.

In the third photo, you can see that the cap bolt on the lift block is quite corroded. I treated it with Rustoleum Rust Reformer before reinstalling the block on the new axle.

So if you have already installed these components in your rig, I'd suggest an inspection to make sure everything is in good shape before you hit the road again. I'll be sending these photos and comments to Trailer Blocks for their information.

Jim

Good morning Jim;

I know this is an old thread. Did you ever hear back from trailerblocks.com? I was going through the older posts on trailer lifting after a recent post jogged my mind. Would you still recommend the lift block approach? What solution would you use today?

When I last talked to the frame and spring shop in Farmington NM The gentleman said they usually use a sub frame, and box the frame as needed (does not like lifting blocks). When I lifted my old trailer a different spring shop in Grand Junction CO used a sub frame too. I originally asked for larger axles with 2" lifting blocks - he talked me out of them. The NM shop are not fans of Lipperts frame work on most units (In general any brand of trailer frame). However he has not worked on one like mine yet. Ill probably wait on my final decision until I have my 16" wheels on and a new ruck underneath. I am waiting to see what the F 350 2022 changes are.

Thanks Cate&Rob Paul & Deb Guest

Keith

[TucsonJim]

Good morning Jim;

I know this is an old thread. Did you ever hear back from trailerblocks.com? I was going through the older posts on trailer lifting after a recent post jogged my mind. Would you still recommend the lift block approach? What solution would you use today?

Keith,

I did hear back from them and they were very non-committal. They said they would forward my photos to their engineering department for future product improvements. Regarding the corrosion, they said I could use a rust coating if I was worried about it. So their answer was basically a non-answer. If I was purchasing them again, I'd go with their lift blocks, LCI tie plates and after-market U-bolts like Paul did.

They are a pretty simple system for getting some lift if needed. Modifying the frame is another option, but obviously more costly.

Jim

[Cate&Rob]

Would you still recommend the lift block approach? What solution would you use today?

Hi Keith,

As Jim Guest, Pat Gyrogearloose, others and I worked through the trailer suspension geometry a while back (trying to figure out the hanger breakage problem) we realized that "over slung" axles (spring above axle) causes the front axle to lift while braking, transferring the majority of braking load to the rear hanger. There is an LCI video that (unintentionally) shows this. Adding spacer blocks to get the axle even further below the spring would make this leverage action even more pronounced. It would seem that the RV industry went from the traditional under slung trailer suspension to over slung springs, to gain ride height . . . without really understanding what this does to braking dynamics. That is a long answer to why I would be careful about using lift blocks. Keep them short, if you go this way.

Placing spacers between the hangers and the frame rails is definitely a better solution to gaining ride height (from a suspension dynamics perspective) but needs to be done by a really competent shop. Your suspension alignment is going to depend on hanger placement done under the frame with a tape measure. This can be done, but takes a lot of care. I had this done by LCI since my early build 303 did not have the 2" square tube spacers that became production build on later 303s. They obviously got it right since I have many thousands of miles on this suspension with even tire wear.

If you are considering having cross bracing installed, consider what this will do to future access to the water tank which is usually above the axles and perhaps some slide mechanisms. If welding to the hangers is the best plan, have stubs welded to the hangers and then the cross brace(s) bolted to these stubs so that they are removable.

Rob

[Guest]

Yoda Keith,

How high were you thinking of going?

Jim

[Yoda]

Yoda Keith,

How high were you thinking of going?

Jim

That's the $10.000 question ....well $50k plus. With my 04 I need about 1.5" to get level and have the 7" of bed clearance. What I really need is the new truck and then measure, but I am betting close to 2.5" overall, That how much higher the new trucks sit compared to my current one per the information available and tape measure on the 2020 units. What really gets me is why Ford added at 3/4"to 1" lip to the tailgate. It humps up in the center where the latch is. Worst place it could be with a 5th wheel. I am hopping the new 2022 tailgate does not have that - rumor on changing it to improve tailgate step.

[Guest]

That's the $10.000 question ....well $50k plus. With my 04 I need about 1.5" to get level and have the 7" of bed clearance. What I really need is the new truck and then measure, but I am betting close to 2.5" overall, That how much higher the new trucks sit compared to my current one per the information available and tape measure on the 2020 units. What really gets me is why Ford added at 3/4"to 1" lip to the tailgate. It humps up in the center where the latch is. Worst place it could be with a 5th wheel. I am hopping the new 2022 tailgate does not have that - rumor on changing it to improve tailgate step.

Keith,

If one could pick the best option where money and time were no issue, a sub-frame welded in would be best. However based on feedback from several folks who have used blocks we can report no issues with them. Most likely there are spring blocks on the rear axle of your truck, however these springs can wind up and handle spring wrap better than a shorter spring and the truck hangers are a far better design. The key really is to never do panic stops to test your system but use this method only if needed since we know the front axle will rise due to the simple pivoting of the equalizer and will put undo stress on the rear axle whether blocks are used or not. Honestly I struggle in why GDRV does not bail on this system and either go independent or for a low cost option, use a slipper spring style system. No front axle rise with either system. Block height should be at or below 1.5" IMO, but others may have feedback on taller blocks.

You may also want to look over a few different truck brands and take some measurements at the dealer. While the tall trucks look cool, they really have messed up the RV industry. And as they become taller, fuel economy decreases.

Jim

[howson]

You may also want to look over a few different truck brands and take some measurements at the dealer. While the tall trucks look cool, they really have messed up the RV industry. And as they become taller, fuel economy decreases.

Taking the opposite approach...can a truck be lowered without messing up the drivetrain geometry? Especially on a 4x4.