Tackling Bearings (Lessons Along the Way)

[howson]

The bearing work on my 315RLTS is far from complete...spent most of the day battling the learning curve (and it extracted the normal pound of flesh).

First, I learned how to remove a nut retainer. May seem simple to those who've seen them before, but it's befuddling when it's new! YouTube to the rescue where I discovered you simply (gently) pry it out.

I also learned it takes a 1 1/2" socket to properly seat the bearings. Of COURSE I didn't have that size--every other size in this known universe but not a 1 1/2". (Sigh).

During disassembly I was surprised how large the rear bearing was compared to the front. The only other bearings I'd done were on a small trailer and the front and rear bearings were the same size.

So what I found is the grease and bearings on wheel 1 (front street side--the heaviest of all the wheels) after 15K miles and 2+ years (yes, I've been neglecting my bearings) was perfect. Lots of blue grease and the races and bearings looked new.

What was not good, though, was the Caliper Guide Bolt Sleeves were immobile and "locked" in the Kodiak caliper. I had to really work to get the sleeves out of the caliper. There didn't appear to be any lubricant on them...but maybe it was just a matter of the two years? I've never seen this kind of wear or frozen sleeves on my motorcycles (the only other vehicle I've done brakes on).

The frozen sleeves {edited to use the right term} resulted in the outboard pad suffering much more wear than the inboard pad. I decided to replace the pads but not with the ceramic Kodiak (or equivalents) since they as so expensive. Went with semi-metallic...we'll see how that goes. The pads are the same as the front pads on an 80's Buick Skylark (no kidding) so it was easy to find them locally.


To fix the sleeves I cleaned them and very lightly lubricated with Red & Tacky (same lube I'm using in the bearings which is lithium based). After working them back and forth a few times they now move freely. From the manual... {Edit--wrong! See subsequent responses from other members. Will go back and re-lube with the right grease.}



{Edit -- removed info on the outboard pad as I had that wrong, too. The tabs should be bent over as shown in a subsequent post.}

So now that I've got the process figured out, hopefully tomorrow the other three wheels will go much faster. Then I'll flush the brake fluid and it will ready for the summer of travel!

Thanks for reading along...hope something was helpful...

Howard

[Cate&Rob]

Hi Howard,

Good post . . . others will learn from what you are describing.

It is distressing that the problems you are finding are the direct result of the installation done by MORryde when they installed your independent suspension. I am reminded of the tire wear problems that you had from the initial MORryde inability to align their own suspension.

Once you get your hubs and brakes put back together properly, they will last many thousands of miles more than what MORryde put together. Kodiak (now owned by Dexter) purposely designed their calipers to fit commonly available (at the time) GM brake pads, so that replacement parts would never be a problem.

Semi-metallic brake pads are definitely the right choice for trailer brakes. Ceramic pads only belong on the front brakes of heavily used cars/trucks.

Have you bled your trailer brakes before? If not, see my write-up on my EoH brake installation. Don't hesitate to ask if you have questions.

Once all the "dust has settled " on this, you might want to go back to MORryde with pictures.

Rob

[ThePowells]

Things always get easier the second, third, or fourth time, plus you already have rounded up the tools. I wonder why the bending of the guide pins is such a big no-no? It seems that since it is the floating side of the caliper (opposite the piston) that would help hold the pad away from the rotor when relaxed. That is the purpose of that silver tab that that fits inside of the piston on the other side.

Edited to add: When googling about bending those tabs, you used the term "guide pin" which is the second term for the guide bolts and sleeves in your second pic. Taking me back to a time long, long ago it was common practice to bend those tabs to hold the pad against the caliper. I'm trying to think where to google for that one.

Second edit..... https://www.etrailer.com/question-13...h%20a%20hammer.

[Jimmer]

Good write-up, Howard! One point I'll raise is that an experienced mechanic will use a pair of channel locks instead of the 1 1/2" socket that you mentioned on the nut holding the hub assembly. People will say who uses channel locks on a precision nut? Since the final tightening of the nut holding the hub on is basically a little more than finger tight, the channel locks will work just fine.

I'm ASE certified in brakes, and have lubed the bearings on my 10,000 pound enclosed race car trailer many times, so I'm comfortable with my answer. Have also changed out bearings/races not many times, but at least twice. The guide on e-trailer recommends using your fingers, but then says their mechanic uses channel locks.
https://www.etrailer.com/question-10...%20it%20stops.

[Cate&Rob]

howson Jimmer

I agree with Jimmer . . . I have used channel lock pliers to tighten/loosen hub nuts . . . for years! (actually decades yikes!!)
However . . . the spec to "tighten to 50 lb-ft" (to make sure races are seated properly) caused me to buy a 1 1/2" socket so I could use my torque wrench.
Those who have not done this by feel for years, need measurable metrics.

Edit: Of course the 50 lb-ft is an interim step . . . final set point is finger tight.

Rob

[Jlawles2]

Having been initiated in the cup and cone era of front suspension and only knowing how to hand pack for more than 3/4 of my existence, the torque value is more to ensure that people whom do not know the change in tone or feel of a properly seated race in the cast housing feels or sounds. I've put in races a couple of different ways, still go back with a punch and hammer listening for that distinctive ring of bottoming out the race.

Howard, I will agree that the bent over tabs are not ideal. I have used a hammer to smack the GM ears on pad to tighten them up to prevent squeaks. (old school trick my dad taught me). Is it possible that they chose to bend the tabs over to avoid contact with the rim?

I'm going to suggest that you avoid standard grease due to the temperature that is possible. I bought and have a caliper specific grease in my bag of tricks, something like: https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05359-Cal...s%2C107&sr=8-5

I've used synthetic grease in the past and had issues with it, better than nothing, but did have issues. Also have used anti-seize compound (high temp stuff), but that makes a mess this and next time.

[howson]

Cate&Rob, Jimmer, ThePowells and Jlawles2 and to the forum member that sent the PM;

Using the Red & Tacky on the sleeve is wrong? Dang--that's all I've ever used on the sleeves when servicing the 'Wing's brakes (and I know they get hot).

Anecdotal experience is not (always) a logical measurement, though, so if I need to take those sleeves out again and do it right...so be it. At least I'm only on the first wheel.

Thanks, as always, for the helpful (critical) inputs. I'll pick up the right lube today at the Auto Parts store. Always learning...

Howard

P.S. Rob--yes--I've bled the brakes. That was done to resolve air in the lines from the factory install. MORRyde did tell me I might have to do the bleed after the initial tow so it was no surprise. I've done plenty of brake flushes on the 'Wing, so don't foresee any issues changing the fluid on the Hydrastar / Kodiak / Dexter brakes.

[Scott'n'Wendy]

I use this
https://www.permatex.com/products/lu...ubricant-8-oz/
Regular grease on the pins will last for only a short while.
It wouldn't surprise me if the kodiak caliper came to more-ryde 'loaded' and the ear of the pad was bent by kodiak. Can't see it hurting the performance of the brakes.
Good write up Howard! Another good reason for checking bearings yearly ---it will get owners to freshen the lube on the guide pins if they have'em.

[howson]

Things always get easier the second, third, or fourth time, plus you already have rounded up the tools. I wonder why the bending of the guide pins is such a big no-no? It seems that since it is the floating side of the caliper (opposite the piston) that would help hold the pad away from the rotor when relaxed. That is the purpose of that silver tab that that fits inside of the piston on the other side.

Edited to add: When googling about bending those tabs, you used the term "guide pin" which is the second term for the guide bolts and sleeves in your second pic. Taking me back to a time long, long ago it was common practice to bend those tabs to hold the pad against the caliper. I'm trying to think where to google for that one.

Second edit..... https://www.etrailer.com/question-13...h%20a%20hammer.

Hmmm...now I'm reading conflicting information on those tabs and I see a different etrailer video showing the tabs bent over. I think I have that wrong, too (sigh). I'll go back and edit my first post. Thanks, Jerry.

[Country Campers]

To clean the inside of the caliper where the rubber bushing and slide pin go use a round wire brush that one would use for copper fittings, these are found in the hardware store plumbing section or maybe your tool box, you will have to measure the hole so you get a size that is larger than the hole. This works very well in getting the dirt, rust, or what ever else is in there out so the rubber bushing slide in and the pin has the correct clearance for the hole. If you allow the build up to keep getting bigger the hole will get smaller and the pin will move less freely.

Brian

[Cate&Rob]

howson

A couple of additional thoughts to add to this discussion:
If the old pads are well worn and you have to push the pistons back a significant amount, this may overflow the reservoir at the master cylinder.
Your towing MPG should improve after this. The excessive wear on the outer pads was from the frozen sleeves not allowing this pad to fully release from the disc.

Rob

[Jlawles2]

Not that this has been done before , but when compressing the pistons, re bleed the system by opening the bleeder valve.

And I will never admit to using the bleeder valve and compressing the pistons to do a fluid change by myself.

[howson]

howson

A couple of additional thoughts to add to this discussion:
If the old pads are well worn and you have to push the pistons back a significant amount, this may overflow the reservoir at the master cylinder.
Your towing MPG should improve after this. The excessive wear on the outer pads was from the frozen sleeves not allowing this pad to fully release from the disc.

Rob

Thanks, Rob. I do know not to fill a reservoir that appears "low" (due to pad wear) which leads to an overflow when the piston on the caliper is pushed in during a pad change. That's why doing the fluid replacement is last on my list. (I'm changing the fluid due to it's hydroscopic property. Since I live in Florida, there's always a lot of humidity. A regular maintenance item on my two wheelers. The trailer's fluid will get changed no less than every two years. One would probably be better...but two will better than leaving it in there indefinitely.)

Got the proper grease for the sleeves--headed out to re-accomplish that first wheel and press on. I'll report in at the end of the day on how it went.

[Scott'n'Wendy]

howson

A couple of additional thoughts to add to this discussion:
If the old pads are well worn and you have to push the pistons back a significant amount, this may overflow the reservoir at the master cylinder.

In particular if you have added fluid during the life of the pads

[howson]

So a couple of lessons learned today:

1) It is possible to drive the rear seal in too far...thus why you're SUPPOSED to use a block of wood larger than the seal. I quickly realized what I'd done and didn't want to compound the error by damaging the bearing by doing something "creative" to move the seal out, so tore out the (incorrectly installed) new seal and threw it away...now I'm waiting on seals. (I hate posting when I mess up, but I do hope it helps someone else from repeating my goofs.)

2) I'm still not convinced the tabs on the semi-metallic pads are supposed to be bent. If they are, the pads I bought at O'Reilly Auto Parts were engineered by an evil person. Almost impossible to get them bent like the Kodiak ceramic pads that were removed. The tab on the new brake pad is much smaller. I ended up putting the pads in a vice to get the tab started and then bent it every-so-slightly more without wailing too hard on the caliper with a hammer.

Not that I'm a brake engineer, but dang these seem poorly designed.



3) The curb side, rear wheel brake pads were the worst I've seen so far. The inner pad was very low compared to the outer. Again, I found the caliper sleeves frozen (all three brakes I've checked so far had sleeves that did not move). The sleeves in this brake were stuck so bad the rubber insert between the caliper and sleeve came out when I attempted to push out the sleeve. That rubber sleeve did not want to go back in, so I used brake cleaner as "lubricant". The spray left just enough liquid for a short period to help slide it back in, then (with the sleeve properly lubricated with the right grease!) the everything went back together. Here's a pic of the pads:




*Hopefully* tomorrow this wraps up. As mentioned by another member in an earlier post, what started out as a bearing inspection turned into a brake job. Glad I looked--would not be good to tear up an integrated rotor/hub on this model of Kodiak brake on my trailer.

Howard