Tackling Bearings (Lessons Along the Way)

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Time...a little contamination and the seal starts to burn. Or...It may have been installed dry. This the first pm since new?

Yet another reason for checking every year. Is this supposed to happen within a year? No. Can it happen within a year..Yes.

[howson]

By chance did you check the play in the bearings before removing the assembly?

Interestingly, I tugged on this wheel before removing the lugnuts (don't know why--didn't on any of the others) and there was definitive movement, or "play", in the wheel. None of the wheels, including this one, have this play after servicing. The bearings were seated exactly as shown in Dexter's video (slowly spinning wheel while tightening to specified torque, then without moving wheel back nut and finger tighten).

[Jlawles2]

So my speculation (truly speculation) the bearings having a bit of play cause lateral movement (droop between the cups). This allowed the seal to get a "flat spot" (technically round) which allowed for a change in the compression of the lips against the axle. This may have been just enough that over time allowed the oils in the grease to evaporate off slightly (yes this can happen and looks like caking). Along with this change in seal compression (tension or whatever you wish to call it) also allowed for the grease to get pushed out at the "set" area of the seal before it warmed and regained shape.

And for the record after my axle failure (NON GD UNIT), I always check the play in the bearings both by tugging on the tire / hub and also by tightening before removing the nut.

[Cate&Rob]

howson

Every problem that you have encountered (except maybe the leaking Zerk) goes back to the company that you paid a lot of money to build you this suspension and brake system. In my opinion, they have proven over and over again that they don’t know what they are doing . . . despite their “reputation”.

When you get this all back together, you will have confidence that everything is assembled correctly. I am reminded of the saying . . . if you want something done right, do it yourself.

Your new seals look good to me. I think you will have difficulty finding any seals that are not made off-shore. I have purchased seals under three different brand names (even Rockwell American) only to find the identical off-shore manufactured seals in the different boxes.

Rob

[Country Campers]

If I recall the seal failure was also the stuck brake caliper wheel, could have been loose bearing, brake heat, incorrect install, all leading to the failure.

I agree with Rob, after touring the MORyde factory last spring I am disappointed in what you are finding. Could some of these issues be from lack of yearly maintenance, maybe, but I think you would have found them last year as well but may have not been quite as bad.

Brian

[wygieman]

howson

Every problem that you have encountered (except maybe the leaking Zerk) goes back to the company that you paid a lot of money to build you this suspension and brake system. In my opinion, they have proven over and over again that they don’t know what they are doing . . . despite their “reputation”.

When you get this all back together, you will have confidence that everything is assembled correctly. I am reminded of the saying . . . if you want something done right, do it yourself.

Your new seals look good to me. I think you will have difficulty finding any seals that are not made off-shore. I have purchased seals under three different brand names (even Rockwell American) only to find the identical off-shore manufactured seals in the different boxes.

Rob

Just a comment for what itis worth. I had the Morryde IS installed last summer. At the time, I asked them about the problem with the poor alignment that had been documented. The manager acknowledged the issue and attributed it to a bad employee who had since been terminated. The management of the aftermarket install operation had recently also been changed and I believe they had become more conservative on weight (which units to use with which rig). I have about 8,000 miles on the suspension so far but haven’t repacked the wheels yet - will before I leave for next summer’s trip. I already had disk brakes so they only moved them over and did a good job imo. Not making excuses for them at all but I do believe it is a high quality operation in general. When you say “if you want something done right, do it yourself”, I completely agree in your areas of competence but I also believe that your areas of competence are significantly wider than mine

[Lonestar]

Lonestar , Cate&Rob and Jlawles2 So what do you think caused this?

@howson

That's really a difficult call as to what happened. Could just be a faulty seal, but I'm in the camp that it was damaged on installation. It sure seems like it would be easy to tear a rear seal lip when replacing the wheel back on the spindle. I know it's crossed my mind several times when servicing the bearings.

I've always replaced the OEM bearings with Timken bearings but I've always just used Chinese seals. So far I've never had an issue. Thought I'd try to get the Dexter seals next time.

I've never seen the MasterPro but they do look solid. Did you end up using these?

[Jlawles2]

Lonestar The Dexter seals are made in China. I'd go with the Master pro or another brand like NOS as they are more available being carried by parts stores.

I have a set of dexter seals (need to see if they cross to the new trailer).

[howson]

I've never seen the MasterPro but they do look solid. Did you end up using these?

The MasterPro was only used on the last one serviced. The first three have Dexter seals. It will be interesting at next service to see if there's any difference. Note that all four of the wheels originally had Dexter seals installed at MORRyde (with the one failure).

My .02: the edge that contacts the spindle wasn't lubed correctly (as Rob has repeatedly commented on in numerous posts through the years). But that opinion and $1 might you get buy a cup of coffee at the golden arches...

Howard

P.S. What I failed to mention previously is the tires did get rotated, too. I did an "X" pattern rotation per Rob's post (who was quoting a Lionshead rep): https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...8007#post58007

[howson]

Took the trailer out for a test tow (total of 48 miles). No issues--yea! Measured the rear edge of each hub (right next to the rear seal) with a laser temp gun and all four were within a few degrees of each other. "Feel" of the wheel on the outside was warm, but nothing I haven't felt before.

Back at the house I reprogrammed the TPMS to match the new location of the tire/wheels and did a second torque. Actually got a little movement from two sets of lugs. Hint for those with the Ford-integrated trailer TPMS: with the truck on and a pressure reading from the tires (you'll need to tow for a bit to get the sensors to "wake up"), then start the reprogramming procedure. Do not turn off the truck or you'll have to reestablish the link first before starting the reprogramming procedure.

What really surprised me about the test tow was the difference in the brakes. The original Kodiak ceramic pads "grabbed" when they engaged. There was also a noticeable delay in application. As if the pads weren't doing much to slow the camper until pressure ramped up and then when they did grab they really grabbed. Could this be due to the calipers not sliding correctly on the sleeves? I don't know. All I do know is the new semi-metallic pads act like, well, brakes. It's like the trailer and truck are working together as one vehicle to come to a stop. I don't like anecdotal measurements, but in this case the best I can document is the new pads "feel much better" than when the ceramic pads were new.

So finally done with this project (double yea). Thanks, as always, for all the inputs.

Howard

[Country Campers]

The calipers not sliding the way that they are suppose to will definately have an effect on the brakes. When brakes are applied , and the caliper does not slide, there may be only one pad doing the braking. This would tend to feel like less braking. When the caliper is froze in a position like yours was , one pad rubbing the disc, then it is always trying to slow down and when brakes are applied the response is quick, like grabbing. Plus the rubbing brake pad will provide heat into the equation. What you have done will make the brakes much better and I would guess that you will not wait 2 years again (haha).

Brian

[Cate&Rob]

I was surprised to learn that your original trailer brake pads were ceramic. Semi metallic would be a much gentler apply and will work better with the truck brakes (as you are finding out).

BTW, a Ford TPMS reset tool is $20 or less and is way easier than the "release pressure" process without the tool. And, yes, it works on the trailer sensors .
Such as https://www.amazon.com/Pressure-Moni...s%2C287&sr=8-6 . . . here are many others.

Rob

[howson]

I was surprised to learn that your original trailer brake pads were ceramic. Semi metallic would be a much gentler apply and will work better with the truck brakes (as you are finding out).

BTW, a Ford TPMS reset tool is $20 or less and is way easier than the "release pressure" process without the tool. And, yes, it works on the trailer sensors .
Such as https://www.amazon.com/Pressure-Moni...s%2C287&sr=8-6 . . . here are many others.

Rob

I bought two different versions of that tool the last time I tried the reset--could not get either one to work. The second tool had both the "GM" and "Ford" setting. Didn't matter. Gave up on the gadgets. (Surprising for me, isn't it?)

[Cate&Rob]

Howard,

Were you trying to set truck or trailer TPMS positions? The procedures are signifucantly different. Truck is done with engine off and prep is multiple presses of an unrelated button (that I can’t remember at the moment). Trailer is done after sensors wake up and with truck running. Confusing at best and not well described in the owners manual.

Rob

[howson]

Howard,

Were you trying to set truck or trailer TPMS positions? The procedures are signifucantly different. Truck is done with engine off and prep is multiple presses of an unrelated button (that I can’t remember at the moment). Trailer is done after sensors wake up and with truck running. Confusing at best and not well described in the owners manual.

Rob

Trailer TPMS. The key was ensuring the sensors were communicating with the truck before starting the process. On the screen showing the air pressure values the option "New Trailer" was selected and the four tire option. From there the training order was front street, front curb, rear curb (only required about 5 psi and the truck honked at me). The rear street was apparently assumed. Double-checked by adding pressure to each tire while the DW watched the gauges. Sure enough, all four pressure values responded as expected.

For those that may not know--this is a Ford OEM TPMS system that can be added if the truck is wired from the factory to accept the kit. Obviously works on my '17. I do not know the applicability for later trucks. Installation manual attached if curious.