Disc Brake Wear

[howson]

I've worked on one side of the camper at a time and used both sets of pads from one box on the side being worked. That results in one wear tab pointing up and one wear tab pointing down. Does this matter? Do I need to go back and redo the pads that are on the "wrong" side?

[howson]

A few videos showing the brakes.

Caliper Can Move--shows how the caliper moves back and forth on the sleeves.

Hydraulic power applied (shows piston movement)

After Applying the Brakes: Shows I can manually turn the rotor.

[Guest]

Howard,

This motion looks reasonable where I'm surprised in how much slop is on the pads in their mounting. Check to be sure the pads are not dedicated inside and outside applications.
Otherwise there will be no harm other than when the pad takes a different track this may explain the wear on the outside of the one pad you showed us. Are you planning on turning the rotors? It would help longevity to start fresh with a clean rotor. These are not automotive brakes which will use springs or stainless flat springs to move the pads back to reduce friction but these would still be better than drum brakes. If folks did not use the proper grease on installation, this may have been your issue where it looks like the calipers were binding from the uneven rotor wear.

Jim

[Jlawles2]

howson Howard, you really need to bend those tabs. Radial play is not a good thing. This will help with several things including wear. Before I watched the video I noticed what looked like clearance between the inside reference point and the caliper, then the video confirmed. I have seen similar brake pads where they have actually bent the tabs around the caliper.



https://www.etrailer.com/question-136129.html

https://www.etrailer.com/question-318584.html

https://www.etrailer.com/tv-review-k...ds-k225cp.aspx 5:13 ish note the bright red tabs are bent over the caliper.

[Guest]

Wow, if they are made this way that's a shame. However, you have jogged my memory. My Tie Down Boat trailer brakes are made similar but the pads can be bent to stop rattle. I was not concerned with that and they fit fine. If the Kodiac brakes are similar in the installation manual to the Tie Downs, they recommend to still leave some movement in the pad. Since mine moved (much less than Howards), they were left alone.

Good catch Joseph.

Jim

[howson]

Couldn't stand it--went back out and moved the two pads with the wear indicators facing the "wrong" direction. My back has decided it's time to end of this project. (ouch)

Jlawles2 -- perhaps it is the "cheap" Advance Auto brand pads I purchased, but bending those tabs is not possible. I fought with this issue the last time the brakes were replaced. According to the etrailer video, the purpose is to keep the pad from rattling and making noise. Not worried about that as I won't hear it. (Thanks for the input, though!)

Guest -- to say I'm disappointed in these brakes is an understatement. I assume there are other options available other than the front end brake system from a 1985 Buick Skylark (no kidding).

[Cate&Rob]

howson

You are absolutely correct that these are mid-80s GM brake pads. Titan designed their caliper to use these readily available (at the time) pads. As to “other options” . . . you could go with 1950s electric drum brakes LOL!

Rob

[Guest]

Couldn't stand it--went back out and moved the two pads with the wear indicators facing the "wrong" direction. My back has decided it's time to end of this project. (ouch)

Jlawles2 -- perhaps it is the "cheap" Advance Auto brand pads I purchased, but bending those tabs is not possible. I fought with this issue the last time the brakes were replaced. According to the etrailer video, the purpose is to keep the pad from rattling and making noise. Not worried about that as I won't hear it. (Thanks for the input, though!)

Guest -- to say I'm disappointed in these brakes is an understatement. I assume there are other options available other than the front end brake system from a 1985 Buick Skylark (no kidding).

Buick would not have settled on the noise so the caliper is clearly different. If you wedge a large screw driver into the hole on the caliper, can you bend the tab and tighten the pad? I believe this explains the rounded wear pattern on the one pad where it was into the radius of the rotor at the hub?. Does Kodiac offer stainless rotors? If so, stainless bolts may be able to be used to avoid the lubricant. My Tie Down brakes are all stainless except the caliper which are aluminum. Here is a reference where these use a surge hydraulic actuator so I do not think they can be used on RV type trailers with a EoH. But I could be wrong there. Notice the difference is size of the holes in the calipers as compared to yours and the retainer spring.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/39188635858...794d02f7d2eaa7

Jim

[howson]

If you wedge a large screw driver into the hole on the caliper, can you bend the tab and tighten the pad?

Not within my capability, Jim. If they are supposed to be bent (and I grant to point to you and Jlawles2 ) it's a mystery to me how they expect it to be done. I had the same problem with the last set of pads I installed. See https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...7769#post77769

What's really embarrassing is I had "learned" how to properly grease the calipers and had documented it in that thread (and had forgotten). This is hard enough without having to relearn the process each time. (Sheesh!)

[Guest]

Not within my capability, Jim. If they are supposed to be bent (and I grant to point to you and Jlawles2 ) it's a mystery to me how they expect it to be done. I had the same problem with the last set of pads I installed. See https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...7769#post77769

What's really embarrassing is I had "learned" how to properly grease the calipers and had documented it in that thread (and had forgotten). This is hard enough without having to relearn the process each time. (Sheesh!)

Don't feel bad brother, I forgot I had similar brakes on my boat trailer. Isn't getting old fun? LOL. You may want to call the manufacturer of these brakes to get their feedback.

Jim

[Jlawles2]

howson Howard, yes the ones on e-trailer do have what appear to be SUPER tabs. I've done several where the tab does not stick through much, the trick is knowing how to use the rounded side of the Ball Peen hammer. I typically hold the pad away from the raised center and smack the tab toward the center with the rounded end. Once you get it wrapped any amount around the caliper you can swap over to a punch if needed, but usually by that point it' already tight enough. Anything to help tighten the pad against the caliper. If you are really froggy, you can pre bend the tabs a little to help with the process.

Now the eared pads require you to pull them back out and beat them in the strong direction. Not uncommon to beat both tabs.

[Guest]

What a horrible system. I vaguely remember my Tie Down install where the pads could still move but were in place as to not have to beat on them. I'm seeing some Kodiac systems with a piece of spring steel riveted to the outer pad like the Tie Down marine system. The manufacturer may have something like this or not to fit Howards calipers? I do not have experience in beating on these pads but if a ball peen hammer is used, do not strike it with another hammer where the shards of steel will fly like bullets.

Jim

[Country Campers]

Just to point out the obvious,

The TT has a gross weight of 11,000#, tow vehicle estimate at 12,000# and if the gain on the trailer brakes are set to come on before the truck then there will probably be plenty of brake wear on the trailer brakes, maybe, maybe not?

Brian

[howson]

Just to point out the obvious,

The TT has a gross weight of 11,000#, tow vehicle estimate at 12,000# and if the gain on the trailer brakes are set to come on before the truck then there will probably be plenty of brake wear on the trailer brakes, maybe, maybe not?

Brian

I agree, Brian. Not sure exactly where the gain is right now, but will lower it a bit. Once sorted I'll post the numbers.

[Jlawles2]

howson Howard, One thing I think you may need to do if possible is to get the brakes installed on CLEAN rotors, Then before they rust, hook the trailer to the TV and find a SAFE PLACE to make several stops from 50-60 mph to 0. I do not think the brakes were bedded to the rotors (this will help with rusting).

To Bed the pads to the rotors, start by bringing the TV and TT up to say 50 mph, then using the hand actuator, bring the combination down to 0 mph at a fairly aggressive (not complete panic) rate. Do this 2-3 times rapidly without allowing the rotor to cool completely. After 2-3 successful stops, allow the brakes a few minutes to cool, then bring the combination up to speed and stop normally a couple of times. You may or may not notice increased performance from the TT, but proper bedding of the pads will help with wear.