Low Pressure Propane Supply Question

[Tadlur]

I have just arrived at a location where I will be working for the summer and I am supplied with propane line that has the same connection as my propane tanks. My employer provides me Propane thru the season. The site manager tells me its a "low pressure supply" vs my tanks which are high pressure (I think ~100 psi). Anyway when I connect to the supply my Fairview Gas Flo GR-9984 or 9994 regulator turns red and with my reserve tank turned off I initially had no propane service to the RV. After multiple attempts I was able to barely keep the stove lit but could not run the furnace or Furrion TWH. I played with the reg adjustment a little but was unable to get it to flow enough Propane to light the furnace or run the tankless water heater. I'm at 8000 ft elevation and have sub freezing temps every night so needless to say I am back on the tank supply. Has any else ever dealt with a park supplied low pressure Propane input and been able to get it to keep the furnace lit? I have a '21 32MKS

Thanks
Mike

[ncitro]

I have just arrived at a location where I will be working for the summer and I am supplied with propane line that has the same connection as my propane tanks. My employer provides me Propane thru the season. The site manager tells me its a "low pressure supply" vs my tanks which are high pressure (I think ~100 psi). Anyway when I connect to the supply my Fairview Gas Flo GR-9984 or 9994 regulator turns red and with my reserve tank turned off I initially had no propane service to the RV. After multiple attempts I was able to barely keep the stove lit but could not run the furnace or Furrion TWH. I played with the reg adjustment a little but was unable to get it to flow enough Propane to light the furnace or run the tankless water heater. I'm at 8000 ft elevation and have sub freezing temps every night so needless to say I am back on the tank supply. Has any else ever dealt with a park supplied low pressure Propane input and been able to get it to keep the furnace lit? I have a '21 32MKS

Thanks
Mike

If it is low pressure supply then that means there is a regulator up the line further. You would need to disconnect the factory regulator and tie their line directly into the rigs gas plumbing. This goes without saying, but do not tackle this if you are not comfortable working with gas lines.

[Country Campers]

I have never dealt with your situation but wonder if you could use your onboard tanks and have you employer pay for the refill?

I agree with the above that the supply line is already regulated for low pressure so you will need to bypass your onboard regulator. Having 2 regulators in line is the reason you do not have adequate pressure or supply.

Biran

[Cate&Rob]

Park supplied low pressure propane is not something that has been discussed here before . . . but, we are always willing to learn! I would suggest that you talk with others in this park who can successfully use this system. Trailers from any manufacturer would have similar tank fed systems originally.

Rob

[ncitro]

I setup a buddy with a class C. Since he had an onboard tank, he wanted the ability to switch between it and a 20 pound grill tank. That way if his onboard ran out he did not need to pull up stakes and drive the rig to get it filled (he's not a great planner). I made up a cable that plugged into his quick disconnect and had a regulator on it to connect to the tank. He had a shutoff at the tank he just closed. I'd think rather than mess with the factory regulator plumbing, I'd leave my stock tanks connected but turned off, and make up a hose to go from your low pressure quick connect to their supply hose. Obviously some hose and fittings may be required here, but that way when it's time to leave your rigs plumbing does not need any modification.

[TucsonJim]

It's vitally important that if you bypass the regulator in your RV that you check the pressure in the alternate supply line. For your appliances to work correctly and safely, the pressure needs to be regulated to 11 inches water column.

Jim

[Tadlur]

Some people in the park tell me that I need a Long Stay Adapter that will allow me to connect to the facility supply. The employer won't pay to fill tanks because they already provide propane. Im gonna check Amazon. Thanks for the feedback

[mpking]

What is the fitting on the park provided propane? Can you post a picture?

[Sandridge4]

We have metered propane at the park we are in. The park had someone come hook ours up. They unhooked the propane where it comes out of the drivers side below the tanks and plumbed their line into that, nothing flows through the regulators that are on our camper. What do the fittings look like on their line?

[NerkGDguy]

TucsonJim I second what Tucson Jim said, make sure the pressure is correct, 11” WC (.39 psi). I have a quick connect on the awning side mid-camper right next to the wheels. This is a connection after the regulator, that connection should be able feed the entire camper. On the Transcend, the type of quick connect is a 1/4” male that ties into a female quick connect that has a built in shutoff valve. A link to the male connector is posted below. Looking for other experts here to verify that makes sense, rather than tearing apart the tank regulator piping.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082683LGQ...7C068H5SQ4YJ22

[mpking]

So I think I understand.

Like TucsonJim said, it's vitally important you confirm that you have the correct pressure coming out of that propane line. Your RV is designed for 11 inches water column. If your propane regulator is cut out of the design, then you have to ensure something else is regulating the pressure.

Once you have confirmed the 11 inches water column.

Use this to convert from the Park Propane to an "appliance fitting"
https://amzn.to/3yLcH9P

Then use this to convert from "appliance Fitting" to 1/4 inch quick connect:
https://amzn.to/3MtKkBf

and then plug the 1/4 quick connect into your 1/4 quick connect fitting where the grill plugs in. Leave the regulator disconnected from your propane tanks, although I would spray the regulator with a bubble solution to ensure it's not venting propane.

I don't think a long stay adaptor will help, since most of the one's I've found are designed to go BEFORE your campers regulator. You'd need one AFTER the regulator.

If you want to remove the regulator off your RV, you could plumb the Park Supply in via:
https://amzn.to/3MFrabq
to
https://amzn.to/3llThAH
to
https://amzn.to/38xEP5U

You'll also need teflon tape.
https://amzn.to/3MuUelY

Honestly. It would be worth the $150-200 dollar to have a licensed plumber to put all this stuff together. Propane is not something you want to "almost" get right.

Let us know what happens.

[Jlawles2]

I agree with the others here. First thing you need to check is the supply pressure. After that, you need to ensure that you have the proper supply pressure to the appliances. I bought my dad one of these and have since inherited it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...0?ie=UTF8&th=1

More than likely the park is supplying something like 4 psi (normal Natural gas house supply pressure) which you will then need to regulate down to the 11 in H2O. The only reason to supply a bit higher pressure is to ensure flow without a lot of losses during peak demand.

Again see what others are doing between the park line and the camper.

[Tadlur]

Thanks for all the good info. Unfortunately the park manager is somewhat clueless and I haven't been able to connect to anyone in the park that is as informed as this group and, to be fair, the people who look to have their act together are all off at work whenever I am here. The people who have given me suggestions aren't very well informed. Anyway I will start ordering the things I need to bypass my RV 2 stage reg and will start with a WC gage with connection to my external QD. I am having trouble attaching pictures.

[Tadlur]

Update. The park manager came by yesterday evening and dropped off a new Propane adapter/connection for the end of the parks supply hose. This is a brass fitting that connects to my regulator inlet hose that is normally connected to one of my Propane tanks. This replaced an identical fitting that was on the end of the supply hose. I figured I had nothing to lose so I changed out the fitting and connected it to my regulator input (tank connection) and, presto, everything now works as it should. This problem was driving me nuts and apparently the solution was as simple as replacing a bad final fitting on the parks supply hose.
BTW my Furrion Tankless Water Heater is working just fine at 8000' elevation with nightly lows down in the low 20's. I purchased a thermostatically controlled 12' pipe heater cable and put it in the TWH compartment feeding it thru one of the vent slots in the outer door. I pushed the heater cable around the TWH brass manifold and it keeps it nice and toasty in the compartment. I also keep the furnace on, use a heated water supply hose and trickle the water into the kitchen sink at night where it exits out the rear grey water drain into the sewer connection. So far so good but I need to make it thru this weekend when temps are expected to go even lower.

[pvduke]

Glad ya got it working. I was kinda cringing and was gona +1 TJ don't mess with an un-verified source w/o a reg (safety net) or modify onboard components. Since ya got the feed pre-two stage reg you'll be safe on a low pressure line.

Nice to know the the furnace don't need to be derated that's a plus! Still- check for soot in the fridge flue and the rest of your gas-op goodies ex pipes when you get a chance.