Propane line leak!!!

[Yoda]

Pretty sure a propane leak there would never be an issue, BUT, should be off to the side. The root cause seems to be a Mor-Ryde suspension failure.

Unless you put screws into it!
I even posted a thread on that situation and suggested the GD put a sticker on the cross tube warning of the gas line inside. I was lucky the screws did not penetrate the line.

Keith

[Yoda]

Livin' the Dream

Gary - I hate to point it out to you, but you have another "significant" problem to deal with. The weld on your CRE3000 equalizer has failed and may get worse. I'll attach photos of your failed weld vs. a good weld. This failed weld may be the cause of the suspension contacting the gas line. The CRE3000 is rated for 8,000 pounds. By any chance do you know the weight at this wheel position is?

Jim





Jim

Good catch Jim. I looked at it and wondered how the offset could occur. I was wondering if the shackles were warn allowing side slop. I was also looking for cracks at the top of the gusset plate - would be worth checking too.

Keith

[Yoda]

Resurrecting an old thread but feel that the safety aspect warrants review. I agree with everything I quoted from Gary's original post above.

We smelled propane upon arriving at the site last week. I soaped all of the fittings from the tanks to the gas valves and confirmed correct appliance operation. (In case you caught it, I did my time in the gas business chasing gas leaks.) Who would have thought the leak would be in the middle of the piping! And not just one, but two holes. The outboard u-bolt on the rear axle had pinched the 3/4" propane hose against the frame causing both pinch points to leak. Both blew bubbles when soaped.

I see no suspension problems that would cause the extreme movement of the axle. What I do know is that we came around the north side of Memphis and drove on some of the worst roads we've encountered in our travels. Even so, the routing of the propane line above the u-bolt is bad, bad design engineering. If there's been two occurrences, there have been more. The leak may be outside of the trailer, but ignition would still burn the house down! I'll be in Middlebury next week and you can bet I'll bring it to Support's attention!

KC Just curious The photo sure makes it look like you have reverse spring arch. I just can't get my head around any situation where the U-bolts would move up far enough to contact the line, before the tire hits the trailer bottom, or is there enough slop in the line that it is slapping downward?

On edit you should check your U-bolt tightness. The spring pack is moving on the axle mount!

Keith

[TucsonJim]

KC Just curious The photo sure makes it look like you have reverse spring arch. I just can't get my head around any situation where the U-bolts would move up far enough to contact the line, before the tire hits the trailer bottom, or is there enough slop in the line that it is slapping downward?

On edit you should check your U-bolt tightness. The spring pack is moving on the axle mount!

Keith

I concur. Look at the photo below. There are signs that the spring pack has shifted based upon the fresh metal that is showing near the red arrow. In addition, from the little I can see, the springs have a reverse arch. But it could just be the camera angle.

[KCalis]

Keith- Tire to underbody freeboard = 3”. Back axle to frame @ u-bolt= 2.75”. Hose OD=0.75” Interference = 1”! Front axle to frame @ u-bolt=3.25”. Interference = 0.5”. All 4 u-bolt ends hit and tore the hose.

Jim- You may be correct. Although this is a replacement axle which “might” have a different pad length. I have been too busy fixin’ to do some fine measurements.

The photo shows spring arch. Not what I’d like but not reverse.

A data point. GD replaced the hose and rerouted it towards the center of the trailer when I had it in for body repair due the axle failure.

Thanks to both of you for your comments

[Yoda]

Thanks to both of you for your comments

Your spring arch is definitely reversed.

There is a reverse curve over the spring parch, so they are probably weak. Might enplane the slippage Jim noted TucsonJim
Your U-bolts are also long. The combination is probably why the U-bolt end made contact with the hose.

I would get the springs replaced ASAP and consider going up in strength.

Keith

[Cate&Rob]

If you are on reasonably level ground, the equalizer should be centered. It looks to be well to one side. Why are the axles much newer than the springs and U bolts?
. . . just trying to understand the background to the original question.

Rob

[KCalis]

Your U-bolts are also long. The combination is probably why the U-bolt end made contact with the hose.

I would get the springs replaced ASAP and consider going up in strength.

Keith, Yes, the u-bolts are approx. 1/2" longer. The shop that replaced the rear axle apparently used what they had on hand to secure the new axle as it is a larger OD than the original 3500 Lippert. FYI, I upgraded to a 6K Dexter.

That being said, the original front axle/u-bolts also made contact with the hose and left indentations. I view this as an accident just waiting to happen.

As for the springs, they are rated 2600 which equals 5200 for the axle. I believe they are the "weak link" in the chain but still in the same range as the tires and only slightly less than the axle/hubs. I have debated upgrading them only to be stopped short with all of the other components being somewhat similar in rating.

Kevin

[KCalis]

If you are on reasonably level ground, the equalizer should be centered. It looks to be well to one side. Why are the axles much newer than the springs and U bolts?
. . . just trying to understand the background to the original question.

Rob

This is the only time I've seen these in an unbalanced position. I've looked at them repeatedly on my recent travel days and always see them well balanced. I theorize that I had backed onto this site and applied the brakes. The rear axle has 12" drums while the fronts are 10". If the 12" set harder, the equalizers might have taken the travel. Just a theory.