Almost Go Time… Schematic for My Battleborn 30A 400Ah Kit Install

[JustUsLeft]

I think my plan is close to ready final parts arrive tomorrow 6/10. I have attached the schematic showing my plan for layout/install. I know that I probably need more solar, but until I can actually measure and plan the roof space I have ordered 420W.

A couple questions.
Do I also need to add a fuse between the +Bus and the OEM DC Trailer System?
What about between the +Bus and the Inverter?
Is there anything else I am missing?



Thanks for any help/feedback.

[Yoda]

[QUOTE=JustUsLeft;n56978]I think my plan is close to ready final parts arrive tomorrow 6/10. I have attached the schematic showing my plan for layout/install. I know that I probably need more solar, but until I can actually measure and plan the roof space I have ordered 420W.

A couple questions.
Do I also need to add a fuse between the +Bus and the OEM DC Trailer System?
What about between the +Bus and the Inverter?
Is there anything else I am missing?



Thanks for any help/feedback.[/QUOT


For me the schematic is not visible. I'm guessing here but you should have a switch and fuse between the + bus bar and inverter.

[TucsonJim]

I'd love to check it out for you, but your schematic isn't showing up.

Jim

[JustUsLeft]

I'd love to check it out for you, but your schematic isn't showing up.

Jim

Apparently the attachment didn't work from my phone, trying again from the PC.

[TucsonJim]

Abner,

I can see it via the attachment. Nice drawing. To answer your questions, I think you're good as designed.

I don't normally see an isolator on the PV circuit unless it's on a grid tied system. I just have a switch on mine. What is your logic for an isolator? I'm wondering if I should change mine.

Jim

[Wyo_EE]

Couldn't get the attachment to open but Battleborn has a suggested wiring diagram on their site for their 30A kit. I have attached it.

Charlie

[Yoda]

Abner,

I can see it via the attachment. Nice drawing. To answer your questions, I think you're good as designed.

I don't normally see an isolator on the PV circuit unless it's on a grid tied system. I just have a switch on mine. What is your logic for an isolator? I'm wondering if I should change mine.

Jim

JustUsLeft

Jim - it sure looks like a DC circuit breaker - similar to my install to be able to isolate the Panels. Long discussion on the need in my install thread. If it is a circuit breaker he does not need the inline fuse. Both positive and negative should go through this circuit breaker.

The 2awg feed the the trailer is possibly oversize and may create an issue connecting to the stock trailer bus bar - mine was 6 awg. I originally had 2/0 but changed it out to the 6awg stock size. Also it appears he is missing a frame ground off of the negative buss bar. Should be 4/0

Not shown are the chassis grounds for the inverter and MPPT. Inverter ground should be 4/0 (same size as input feed) and MPPT at least 6 awg (match input/output wire sizing). they should be frame grounded separately away from the negative bus bar frame ground. Again discussed in detail in my thread.

Last my Multiplus 3000 inverter requires a 400 amp fuse. Something to check in the inverter manual

One question - what is the triangle orange thing below the primary disconnect switch (labeled as 500A isolator) I am curious as to what it is and does.

Just trying to help based on information I was given for my ongoing install. Best wishes on your project.

BTW - do a full size layout and try bending connecting cables with the lugs temporarily attached. You may need more room that planned. Mine is a little tight and I had to use bar stock from some connections.

Hope this helps
Keith

[JustUsLeft]

Abner,

I can see it via the attachment. Nice drawing. To answer your questions, I think you're good as designed.

I don't normally see an isolator on the PV circuit unless it's on a grid tied system. I just have a switch on mine. What is your logic for an isolator? I'm wondering if I should change mine.

Jim

Hi Jim it actually is a switch... The full name is "SilkGrace Solar DC Isolator Switch 1000V/32A PV DC Battery Disconnect Switch" the concept is to give me a way to isolate my solar panels from the MPPT if ever necessary.

[JustUsLeft]

Couldn't get the attachment to open but Battleborn has a suggested wiring diagram on their site for their 30A kit. I have attached it.

Charlie

Thanks Charlie

[JustUsLeft]

JustUsLeft

Jim - it sure looks like a DC circuit breaker - similar to my install to be able to isolate the Panels. Long discussion on the need in my install thread. If it is a circuit breaker he does not need the inline fuse. Both positive and negative should go through this circuit breaker.

The 2awg feed the the trailer is possibly oversize and may create an issue connecting to the stock trailer bus bar - mine was 6 awg. I originally had 2/0 but changed it out to the 6awg stock size. Also it appears he is missing a frame ground off of the negative buss bar. Should be 4/0

Not shown are the chassis grounds for the inverter and MPPT. Inverter ground should be 4/0 (same size as input feed) and MPPT at least 6 awg (match input/output wire sizing). they should be frame grounded separately away from the negative bus bar frame ground. Again discussed in detail in my thread.

Last my Multiplus 3000 inverter requires a 400 amp fuse. Something to check in the inverter manual

One question - what is the triangle orange thing below the primary disconnect switch (labeled as 500A isolator) I am curious as to what it is and does.

Just trying to help based on information I was given for my ongoing install. Best wishes on your project.

BTW - do a full size layout and try bending connecting cables with the lugs temporarily attached. You may need more room that planned. Mine is a little tight and I had to use bar stock from some connections.

Hope this helps
Keith

Hi Keith is a SilkGrace Solar DC Isolator Switch 1000V/32A PV DC Battery Disconnect Switch my desire is to be able to isolate the panels as you stated.

I added the Chassis ground to the attached schematic.

I have a 300A fuse fort the inverter because that is what Battleborn included with the kit. The schematic Charlie posted from the BB website shows a 300A fuse but placed between the inverter and bus bar with no fuse between the battery and the primary disconnect switch, I think I will be moving the 300A Fuse between the inverter and bus bar as shown in the BB diagram.



The orange triangle device is a BGA 225 when wired using option 3 using the toggle switch in the diagram should result in the following:

1. Toggle switch closed (ON) and battery voltage is good, BGA will energize the relay resulting in connecting the batteries to the bus bar. If battery voltage falls below 11.5 for 2 minutes the BGA will disconnect the load and toggle the relay off.
2. Toggle switch open (OFF) the BGA will not energize the relay and it will be off.


As I was writing this I realized a possible flaw... that with the current plan when the relay is off the inverter will not be able to charge the batteries and if the voltage ever drops too low I would have to have an alternate way to energize the relay and turn it on.

[Yoda]

Hi Keith is a SilkGrace Solar DC Isolator Switch 1000V/32A PV DC Battery Disconnect Switch my desire is to be able to isolate the panels as you stated.

I added the Chassis ground to the attached schematic.

I have a 300A fuse fort the inverter because that is what Battleborn included with the kit. The schematic Charlie posted from the BB website shows a 300A fuse but placed between the inverter and bus bar with no fuse between the battery and the primary disconnect switch, I think I will be moving the 300A Fuse between the inverter and bus bar as shown in the BB diagram.



The orange triangle device is a BGA 225 when wired using option 3 using the toggle switch in the diagram should result in the following:

1. Toggle switch closed (ON) and battery voltage is good, BGA will energize the relay resulting in connecting the batteries to the bus bar. If battery voltage falls below 11.5 for 2 minutes the BGA will disconnect the load and toggle the relay off.
2. Toggle switch open (OFF) the BGA will not energize the relay and it will be off.


As I was writing this I realized a possible flaw... that with the current plan when the relay is off the inverter will not be able to charge the batteries and if the voltage ever drops too low I would have to have an alternate way to energize the relay and turn it on.

I have never seen the SilkGrace before. Looking here https://www.amazon.com.au/SilkGrace-.../dp/B094JHY4FV its just a switch so the fuse would be needed. However I am not really sure how it is wired or works.

As I will have a 712 battery monitor I don't see the need for the BGA and have never run across it before either. I am not the expert here - my knowledge is from others and learning from my mistakes. In my MultiPlus 3000 inverter/charger settings (if that is what you have) - check the manual as I believe you can set low voltage settings where it will shut down before battery's are killed. Then I don't see the need for the BGA - but I could be wrong. My manual say 400 amp fuse for it too.

Keith

Hopefully the real experts will chime in here

[gbkims]

Hi Keith is a SilkGrace Solar DC Isolator Switch 1000V/32A PV DC Battery Disconnect Switch my desire is to be able to isolate the panels as you stated.

I added the Chassis ground to the attached schematic.

I have a 300A fuse fort the inverter because that is what Battleborn included with the kit. The schematic Charlie posted from the BB website shows a 300A fuse but placed between the inverter and bus bar with no fuse between the battery and the primary disconnect switch, I think I will be moving the 300A Fuse between the inverter and bus bar as shown in the BB diagram.



The orange triangle device is a BGA 225 when wired using option 3 using the toggle switch in the diagram should result in the following:

1. Toggle switch closed (ON) and battery voltage is good, BGA will energize the relay resulting in connecting the batteries to the bus bar. If battery voltage falls below 11.5 for 2 minutes the BGA will disconnect the load and toggle the relay off.
2. Toggle switch open (OFF) the BGA will not energize the relay and it will be off.


As I was writing this I realized a possible flaw... that with the current plan when the relay is off the inverter will not be able to charge the batteries and if the voltage ever drops too low I would have to have an alternate way to energize the relay and turn it on.

The 2 solar panels look to be wired in series, so 12V 210W panels' voltage is 2*19.83V and Short Circuit Current Isc of 13.09A
I wouldn't think the 30A MC4 inline fuse is needed as the panels can't produce enough amps to ever blow the fuse.

The 4 pole Silka solar disconnect switch looks useful
Looks like it could act as a combiner if another string on panels was put in parallel with the 1st series string, if a roof combiner box wasn't used..

Looks to me the BGA225 in BB's kit was intended to disconnect RV DC loads from the batteries.
In your drawing it looks to be a trigger/relay that operates the large DC contactor to disconnect the batteries.
I would think a disconnect switch would be fine in their place.

I noticed Battle Born's example drawing doesn't put a fuse between the batteries and the DC bus.
I guess BB relies on the batteries BMS to protect against short circuit current in the 4/0 between the batteries and the DC bus.

The truck's 12V charge line has a fuse in the truck's fuse box.

Just my .02

Gene