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Need to put these up for sale to help pay for the new system:
Demo completed:
Next step is to rebuild this area with 3/4" plywood and 2x4's to hold the additional weight of the new system. I am keeping a lot of the panels to trace and to use as "wallpaper" for the closet:
acoleman43 -- pics in post 31 and 32 don't display. ???
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After a couple weeks traveling for business I was able to make some progress.
I ended up cutting out the master bedroom ceiling. I don't like this, but there was no other way to run hidden wiring where I wanted it. Black and gray tanks in the way under the floor, so the ceiling was the only option. I may have a remodeling project as well
I was able to run the wiring to the panel junction box on the roof and wiring for a fan in the main room and a fan in the bedroom.
Side note: The ceiling panel just above the mirror was a warranty issue when we bought the trailer. The glue didn't adhere in some areas causing random bubbles to appear. The dealer "fixed" it by installing anther panel over the top of the original panel. Obviously this didn't look right as that panel was protruding above (below??) the adjacent panels and the trim looked terrible. I removed the "fix". The picture is of the original panel. Some of the bubbles are not present, but it still doesn't look right. This is helping me lean towards a "remodel" job of the bedroom.
I used the speaker hole to help run the wiring through the main room. Notice the "skylight" in this room. The 10 awg wiring is for a long awaited fan. I figured since I'm running wires and messing with the roof, this is the perfect time to add a fan.
Junction box installed. 8 awg wiring for all panels runs from this box through the "attic" (trusses) to the front storage area. The junction box is located directly in front of the TV antenna.
It was tricky finding and threading the wires through the small hole in the box. This task took a couple hours and trying many different methods.
Maxxair fan is now installed in the main room. This was a long time coming and will be a welcome addition.
Side note: Alpha self-leveling lap sealant is not easy to work with. It doesn't really self-level very well (I learned the hard way). I found it works much better to treat is like silicone caulking and use something to help "smooth", spread and push the sealant against the objects you want to seal. It doesn't look great but no water will reach the roof penetrations.
Main room all put back together with a new fan. After many hours of frustration running wires (well, trying to run the wires) through the ceiling, this was a welcome "win" to end the day.
Next up: Continue trying to run USB and HDMI cables from front storage area to the main information panel. After looking around, the main control panel is the best place for the GX Touch monitor. I'll have to run an HDMI and USB cable from the GX touch to the Cerbo GX (which will be installed in the front storage area). Already a few hours of trying to run the cables.....which caused me to change direction and install the fan. I needed a win.
I'm afraid more bedroom ceiling removal will be required to do this. The AC "tracks" are impossible to work around and are fragile. Too much tugging to get wires over or under them will rip a hole in the "tracks" which is not desirable. This is causing many hours of frustration (I've already had to repair 2 hoes in the AC tracks).
acoleman43 -- great documentation! Jealous of that MaxxAir fan--definitely the route I'm going when it's time to replace what's on my camper.
Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.
More progress. All wiring is now run through ceiling. That was a much bigger project than anticipated.
All wiring is now accessible in from storage area where batteries, inverter, MPPT charges, etc will be installed. It is an official wiring mess.
Wire for a fan in the bedroom is now in the ceiling (looped 10 awg wire). However, currently there is no money for a fan. For now I will install the "skylight" that was removed from the main room. When I get the fan it will be a quick, easy install.
I also ran a wire for a router to be installed above the switches in the main entertainment cabinet (10 awg wire against far wall).
HDMI and USB cables for GX Touch are now run to the front control panel. That was a difficult endeavor.
GX Touch installed and everything back together. Whew! That was more work than it should have been, but am happy with the result.
Router will (hopefully) be installed in space above the GX Touch and control panel.
An unfortunate discovery while mentally going through wiring....the starter for the generator is 12v. New batteries are 24v. So, for now, I will keep one 12v battery just for the generator. I'll connect a small trickle charger panel system to the battery to keep it topped off (cheap $60 system). Eventually I hope to get a 24v starter for the generator and remove the 12v battery.
LOL...said everyone that's done a similar project!
Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.
More progress. Started putting the storage/closet back together.
The "bones" of the front side. Inverter will be installed in the "open" area. Batteries will be on the floor.
Better view of other side
Dry fit. It actually fit.
Need to cut a hole in the right side for the inverter to sit. "New" floor is now about 7" higher than old floor with batteries underneath.
Need to install everything against end wall first. Bottom Distibutor is the busbar for the 4 batteries. 4/0 wires from the Distributor to a main cutoff switch on the left side (not there yet), then to the Lynx Shunt.
From Shunt to 2nd Distibutor. 2nd Distributor to inverter, DC circuit (Main DC panel, "always on" DC power", and MPPT controllers.
And, yes, the Shunt/Distibutor are crooked. Not intentional but will not be seen so it's all good.
"shelf" above Shunt will house the Cerbo GX and temp control modules for fans to circulate air around batteries and behind inverter. Will be accessible through bottom of closet
Hopefully get a little more done tomorrow, then a busy work week. Goal is to have storage area put together with inverter next weekend.
Looking great! Question, none of the Lynx products were an option when I did my system, but I've been reading up on them as I'm getting ready to do an install with a buddy. I could not find a lot of options on the Lynx shunt over the smart shunt other than ease of mounting and it'll take 1,000 amps vs 500. In favor of the smart shunt appeared to be about 1/3 the cost, and the ability to monitor the shunt via Bluetooth independently of the Cerbo. What swung you to the Lynx?
Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.
Neil Citro
2018 Reflection 28BH Pepwave
2019 F350 6.7L Long Bed Crew Cab
Looking great! Question, none of the Lynx products were an option when I did my system, but I've been reading up on them as I'm getting ready to do an install with a buddy. I could not find a lot of options on the Lynx shunt over the smart shunt other than ease of mounting and it'll take 1,000 amps vs 500. In favor of the smart shunt appeared to be about 1/3 the cost, and the ability to monitor the shunt via Bluetooth independently of the Cerbo. What swung you to the Lynx?
In my opinion, the Smart Shunt will do everything you want it to do at a much better price point. I used the Lynx Shunt because I wanted something that worked with the Distributors, was fused and it looks cool
To be honest, I think the Smart Shunt would have done everything the I wanted from the Lynx Shunt. I don't think you'll go wrong either way.
In my opinion, the Smart Shunt will do everything you want it to do at a much better price point. I used the Lynx Shunt because I wanted something that worked with the Distributors, was fused and it looks cool
To be honest, I think the Smart Shunt would have done everything the I wanted from the Lynx Shunt. I don't think you'll go wrong either way.
Appreciate the honesty, that's kind of the conclusion I had too.
Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.
Neil Citro
2018 Reflection 28BH Pepwave
2019 F350 6.7L Long Bed Crew Cab
Wiring is a mess. It is organized....I promise....well it's organized in my head. I was also able to get the "always on" DC wires ran to the trailer tongue and my "ground bus" now runs through the floor to the chassis.
Surprisingly everything is fitting.
Sneak peek at the "MPPT box". This goes against the front curved area of the exterior storage. This will be covered with an "access panel" leaving the surface flat. Because this will be confined....and produce heat, I left a gap at the top for air flow. I want to put a fan at the bottom to push air through the back heat sink of the units.
My fabrication skill are not where I want them, but this will work out fine.....at least that's what I'm telling myself. I will line the entire surface with trunk liner to hide some of the oops.....
Not shown: Finished the wiring through the ceiling of the bedroom. I now have wiring to an area in the bedroom where a hole will be made in the coming weeks. I also ran an additional 10 awg wire to the front "entertainment" center for any additional items (router possibly??) in the future.
I am finding order of operation saves time and frustration. One thing I would have done differently is to mount all hardware BEFORE I secured the support structure to the wall.
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