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**Cate&Rob** · 02-09-2023, 01:21 PM

Hi Keith,

I would not put down the landing gear (if hitched to the truck) or the rear stabilizers. The reason for this is that you need some flexibility in both the frame and axle jacking to get everything lined up. If the stabilizers or landing gear are down, excessive load will transfer to these supports if you relax the frame jacks during alignment of the shackle bolts.

Rob

**Jlawles2** · 02-09-2023, 01:30 PM

If I were to put the stabilizers down, I'd do it after the jack stands are installed and the tires removed. As Rob states flex of frame is possible.

**Yoda** · 02-09-2023, 03:54 PM

Originally posted by Jlawles2 View Post

If I were to put the stabilizers down, I'd do it after the jack stands are installed and the tires removed. As Rob states flex of frame is possible.

Cate&Rob

Good point - I had not thought of the sequence overloading the front or rear jacks, so I need to be careful.
So
Step one - hook the truck up and block the truck tires. This will leave the trailer nose high though
Step two Jack the frame to level and install jack stands (one side at a time. . I think this is doable, but may raise the trailer tires off the ground on the rear - ok I guess
Step 3 - once jack stands are in place lower front landing gear and rear jacks to just loaded to remove any trailer frame movement

Step 4 proceed to remove trailer tires and do replacement

Step 6 reverse the process by raising up the rear and front jacks after trailer tires have been installed
Step seven Jack frame to remove jack stands, and do final torquing of wheel nuts., then unhook truck

Now this will put the trailer a lot higher in the air than I really want. I was first going to level the frame to start, but cant do that hooked up. Maybe us the truck or my tractor as a dead man safety attached to the front landing gear frames using a come-a-long I have. I think once the snow melts I can see what the drive way pitch actually is. Another possibility is as the drive slopes to a trench drain in front of the garage, figure out a blocking system bracing the back of the trailer against the garage foundation to prevent any movement.

On note - I will also be shimming the jack pads blocks, so jacks are vertical and plumb, and not tilted - hard to enplane, but it would be a base wedge for the blocks. I could also temp glue that wedge in place so it cant slide.

I did find a few older pictures with the trailer sitting level.

In this picture the frame is level and axles reflect drive slope. I would say 3" between rear ad front axle based on sumo spring orientation

A second view. Frame level. drive slopes down towards the rear. The driveway side to side is dead level.

I have also never had an issue with the trailer moving if not blocked either.

Keith

**Scott'n'Wendy** · 02-09-2023, 04:57 PM

I did mine with 4x4 cribbing. I'm not sure I agree with Cate&Rob on needing any frame flexibility.

**Cate&Rob** · 02-09-2023, 06:43 PM

Originally posted by Scott'n'Wendy View Post

I did mine with 4x4 cribbing. I'm not sure I agree with Cate&Rob on needing any frame flexibility.

I have never replaced a complete axle. I have only disassembled one side at a time, to replace springs, bushings, equalizer. Getting that one side back together has required lifting/lowering each axle end plus the frame jacks. Four jacks in play on one side. Perhaps replacing an axle is easier? But, fastening up the second side should be very similar to what I have experienced.

Rob

**Yoda** · 02-09-2023, 10:41 PM

Originally posted by Scott'n'Wendy View Post

I did mine with 4x4 cribbing. I'm not sure I agree with Cate&Rob on needing any frame flexibility.

I can buy/make a lot of cribbing for the price of those jacks. Maybe time to sit back and ponder over a cold one. With a large enough foot print, no way the trailer will move on the cribbing, even on the drive slope.

Keith

**Cate&Rob** · 02-09-2023, 10:55 PM

Yoda

Build your cribs wide enough to carry both the hydraulic jack and the axle stand. I uses 2 x 6 . . . easier to screw together with deck screws. I have ben using these same "one piece" blocks for years.

Rob

**Jlawles2** · 02-09-2023, 11:40 PM

Adult Jinga blocks. All you need to do is write random letters on the ends.

Skip the wedge building. Make a simple 4 sided box out of some scrap materials just larger than the base of whatever you are using. Then put sand in the box, plywood on top of that using the sand to level the ply, then a piece of plastic or something if you anticipate rain, and go to work.

Sand is much easier to level, safer to make, and can be reused somewhere else when done. At most you are looking at 4 bags of sand unless you an appropriate some for free.

**Scott'n'Wendy** · 02-10-2023, 07:25 AM

Originally posted by Cate&Rob View Post

Yoda

Build your cribs wide enough to carry both the hydraulic jack and the axle stand. I uses 2 x 6 . . . easier to screw together with deck screws. I have ben using these same "one piece" blocks for years.

Rob

The cribbing I meant was right to the frame. No jack stands involved.

Think of how much you saved building those years ago! The price of lumber nowadays...

**Yoda** · 02-10-2023, 10:58 AM

Scott'n'Wendy Cate&Rob Jlawles2

I just remembered I have a stack of 2x6 pressure treated lumber - probably 12 -8' long left over from a deck remodel that I never did - went pavers. SWMBO reminded me where they were. They are buried under the snow (tarp covered). So I think I know what I am going to do now - cribbing to the frame. Just need to get some measurements and a shovel

.

Thanks everyone............but........maybe............Hm mmmmmmm.....To keep folks happy having me spend $$ I might get one set of the 6T jack stands.
Keith

**Jlawles2** · 02-10-2023, 04:10 PM

skip the 6T go for the 3T. Spend the extra money on anther bottle jack or get the combo. Just watch for a deal on it with free shipping.

https://www.toolsource.com/service-j...-p-149960.html Can never have too many bottle or floor jacks.

**Yoda** · 02-26-2023, 11:16 AM

Update I ordered theses tools for the axle swap. It all you folks fault too

.................................................. .............

I found an old Amazon gift card on my desk that I did not know I had. It still worked after several years.

As recommended the 3Tdouble locking jack stands - I still plan to use full height cribbing, but these will com in handy.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

To work with the wet bolts and bushings - can also be used a a deep C clamp later
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Last to plug the ends of my 2x2 tubing. GD left the original 2x2 sections under the hangers open and wasps loved the holes.. They can be trimmed to fit if needed. I will probably rivet in place.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I did get SWMBO something too -

a new coffee cup warmer.

**Country Campers** · 02-26-2023, 11:55 AM

I will be interested in the 2 x 2 plugs as how they will fit, looks like a good item to get.

Brian

**Jlawles2** · 02-27-2023, 12:37 AM

Be prepared to use tech screws to hold them in place once you trim them to fit. (don't ask).

Double locking stand look nice, but I don't think I would ever use the pin. With the OTC Stinger stands I have, any uplift prevention will keep the stand from retracting as lifting the handle makes the wedge lock lift the extension bar before lowering.

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