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As some have recommended in various posts about welt bolt maintenance, spring work, and axle work, I decided to spend $44 and get a tool to help me work
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So yes the goal of the site to have me spend $$ is working.
This tool is massive - how in the world are folks bending these as has been reported in some reviews is beyond me, but this is a HD version. The one I received is well made and a sturdy case and seem smooth on the threading. I have not used it yet. It will also come in handy for my Hay equipment and as an oversized C clamp for other tasks. The adapters will work for wood projects from what I can tell.
First photo os of the tool and adapters in the case. The second photo is to show its relative size. It is hefty and solid.
Measurements to give you the size of the opening and screw location. This should fit every location I have and be fairly easy to handle. End opening ID is 1.25"
If you wondering what this is used for, wet bolts have a knurled section that needs to be driven out for removal and pressed in to full seat the knurled before tightening up the nuts. I ran across several threads where folks striped the wet bolt threads trying to use the nuts to pull the knurls home.The wet bolts should never be spun to remove as some U-tube videos show. The knurl engagement is needed for proper function. In my case as I will be reversing the wet bolts (zerks to outside nuts to inside) to facilitate my x-factor cross braces I will be pressing the wet bolt knurls into virgin holes.
I do plan to mark my wet bolt heads so I can keep the grease hole orientation at the 3oc or 6oc position, and to check then for function before install.
Now to be fair, yes you can remove wet bolts by backing the nut to the end to protect the threads and hammer them out, and can probably do the same for an install with the proper sized socket to protect the zerk, or use a large C-Clamp, but I do not have a big c-clamp and they cost as much or more than this tool. One end of the tool is actually open (1.25 ID) to fit over the bolt head and you press the bolt through it.
Hope this helps others
Keith
Edit wrong link
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So yes the goal of the site to have me spend $$ is working.
This tool is massive - how in the world are folks bending these as has been reported in some reviews is beyond me, but this is a HD version. The one I received is well made and a sturdy case and seem smooth on the threading. I have not used it yet. It will also come in handy for my Hay equipment and as an oversized C clamp for other tasks. The adapters will work for wood projects from what I can tell.
First photo os of the tool and adapters in the case. The second photo is to show its relative size. It is hefty and solid.
Measurements to give you the size of the opening and screw location. This should fit every location I have and be fairly easy to handle. End opening ID is 1.25"
If you wondering what this is used for, wet bolts have a knurled section that needs to be driven out for removal and pressed in to full seat the knurled before tightening up the nuts. I ran across several threads where folks striped the wet bolt threads trying to use the nuts to pull the knurls home.The wet bolts should never be spun to remove as some U-tube videos show. The knurl engagement is needed for proper function. In my case as I will be reversing the wet bolts (zerks to outside nuts to inside) to facilitate my x-factor cross braces I will be pressing the wet bolt knurls into virgin holes.
I do plan to mark my wet bolt heads so I can keep the grease hole orientation at the 3oc or 6oc position, and to check then for function before install.
Now to be fair, yes you can remove wet bolts by backing the nut to the end to protect the threads and hammer them out, and can probably do the same for an install with the proper sized socket to protect the zerk, or use a large C-Clamp, but I do not have a big c-clamp and they cost as much or more than this tool. One end of the tool is actually open (1.25 ID) to fit over the bolt head and you press the bolt through it.
Hope this helps others
Keith
Edit wrong link
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