A Ram 2500 has a curb weight of about 6600 lbs (Google search). How is 6000 lbs of that on the front axle? Empty or towing.

Rob

I was off a bit. It’s about 5,000lbs. My truck weighs a bit under 8,000lbs. Without trailer. 10,000GVWR.

Rich

I hope I'm in the right thread for all of this. I have some questions/thoughts/ideas to throw in about travel trailer weight distribution, but also about sway control. First a little background. I am looking to replace my Fastway EZ Trunnion Style hitch that I have come to hate. Yes, it may be out of adjustment after 6 1/2 years, but I'm tired of adjustment bolts slipping, L bracket bolts shearing, L brackets bending and twisting, and all the screeching and groaning while meandering through parking lots. Besides, after 20,000 miles it's looking a little road-weary. I'm thinking of one of those chain-link types (I've never had one) but with a different chain tensioning system (see below). So:

1. I have air bags on the rear suspension of my truck. Would that preclude the need for a weight distribution hitch?
2. When driving on concrete highways with the expansion joints, my rig has always had issues with ride comfort. It's more than just porpoising, it's also often a hammering sensation in the cab. It's the reason I got air bags, but they helped only somewhat. Maybe it's a trailer suspension problem and not a hitch problem, but any thoughts are appreciated.
3. I read where many of the chain-type WD hitches do not allow for backing up the trailer with the bars attached. Why is that? The manufacturers say it's because you may break something, but that doesn't answer the question. I've never had a problem backing with the L bracket/friction sway control system, so I'm curious. I'm just looking for info to help with my soon-to-be hitch shopping experience.
4. About that chain tensioning system, a fellow camper showed me his system with a StrapTek adjustment add-on that bolts to the trailer frame. You simply attach the straps to the chains and wind them up with a ratchet wrench or hand crank, rather than lifting and lowering the tongue jack to get the chains connected. Hefty looking straps, and he swears by them. Just an FYI, and something I'll look into if I buy that type of hitch.
5. And finally, any recommendations for a hitch setup? (If that's allowed here.)

1: Air bags will raise the rear but not help with the real problem of transferring load to the steer tires.
2: You need to weight the unit axle by axle unloaded and loaded. You may have the tension bars on the WDH set too light, even though the camper is level (thanks to the bags and adjusting the hitch height) but not be transferring enough weight to the front. I believe this is a big issue.
3: I had a BlueOx SwayPro and backed with it often. If you are going to experience a large dip (like exiting a driveway at the roll over curb) where the angles are ridiculous due to the water drain paths. Howard (howson) explains this in one of his threads. I did notice that the turning when backing is much more difficult as the trailer does not cut as hard (also where damage to the hitch bars and chain cams happen).
4: Again Howard found the StrapTek an added value as it allowed for more adjustment and MUCH easier on the body exit pucker factor when the chain cam comes back around. The chain cam has gotten quite a few people from toes, knuckles and a few other things when the unexpected amount of load reverses on the micro wrench they provide.
5: I am a fan of the BlueOx. You will need an accurate tongue weight to order as the bars are coded for tongue weight. I also suggest going 1 or 2 increments larger (less flex in bars) but this also has reverse affects that the bars are super stiff.

I have noticed in camp grounds the Equal-I-zer hitch is popular. The dealer recommended and installed ours when we purchased our used coach. It can be left hooked up when reversing.
Just make sure it’s adjusted properly. Ours was not so I had to readjust it.
Rich

I second the need for adjustment - don't trust an RV dealer to get it right, ours wasn't. Ball height to make trailer level first, then tilt angle to get front wheels to return to between 50% and 100% of what they lifted (i.e., exactly what Equal-I-er says in their instructions. This process can take a number of iterations....

Steep downhill grade......

See my previous post. My truck weighs nearly 8,000lbs. Google failed him and you believe it….🙄
Moderators please close this thread. It’s become useless.
Rich