Back to the random "Trailer Disconnected" warning . . .

I got the resistors recommended by Jlawles2 Joseph and wired them into my MICTuning connection box as he suggested. I wired one between the red terminal (left turn/stop) and ground. Another one between the brown terminal (right turn/stop)and ground. This made no difference to the random warning message. This kind of makes sense since others with similar trucks and the same trailer lights do not report this problem.

So . . . I wondered what would happen if I put one of these resistors on the blue brake apply circuit? This seems to solve the problem . I can turn the random warning off/on by connecting/disconnecting this resistor. (As tested using the hand apply while not moving.) I cannot hear any difference in the EoH actuator spin up with or without the resistor, but will keep an eye on gain settings once I try this while moving.

I do have this resistor on a quick disconnect so that I can remove it from the circuit if it causes some other problem. I have removed the resistors from the light circuits since they did not seem to be accomplishing anything. These resistors are well packaged in heat dissipation finned holders and they do get quite warm after multiple extended power cycles. I have this resistor bolted to the steel pinbox frame away from anything else, so heat should not be a problem in normal use.

BTW, I have confirmed that with the trailer connected, shifting from park to drive turns on the DRLs plus all the truck and trailer marker lights. With the trailer disconnected, only the DRLs come on. I don't particularly mind this (I would usually do this manually) . . . it just seems that this should be something that I could select.

Rob

Cate&Rob

Rob
I’m sure you have check all sources on the internet but just something I found while installing my hydrastar actuator was I got that message on my truck when I was testing the wires for the correct voltage by pushing brake pedal or the brake controller so I started to research it to see if I was going to need the brake controller adapter. I did figure it was because I didn’t have anything connected to the wires but I also read that a bad ground on the actuator could be causing it. They said to make sure the ground from the actuator is a dedicated
ground. Once I hooked everything thing up no messages, so maybe you could try a different ground position for the actuator, if you haven’t done so.

Jim

Hogdrv -- exactly what I was thinking as I read Cate&Rob 's latest post. From the Hydrastar service manual (attached in case you don't have it, Rob):

Hogdrv howson
Jim and Howard . . . thanks for the advice!

My Brake Rite actuator is somewhat different than your Hydrastar unit, but the wiring diagrams look very similar. The ground wire from the actuator goes to both the RV chassis and the white wire in the connection cord to the truck. (This would be what Hydrastar means by "runs directly to the tow vehicle's battery.) I will check this ground wiring for zero resistance. Brake Rite does not provide a minimum voltage at the actuator when applied. But, I will check this with and without the new added resistor and compare to your 8.5V spec.

Since this "trailer disconnected" warning came along with the new truck, I think the issue is within the diagnostics of the new truck.

Rob

Dang, Rob, that sucks that the only thing new in the mix is the truck. Maybe the wiring in the truck has a loose connection, or a wire rubbing on something, I really hope you figure this out.
Good Luck Man
Jim

Rob I was thinking if your truck is like mine you should have a 7pin connection in the bed and one down by the bumper, what if you were to try the other plug that you haven’t been using and see if that makes a difference. If it works then you narrowed it down to that connection. The wires from the front of the truck are probably the same ones but they need to split somewhere. Just one more variable to check and very easy to do. I hope some of this stuff works and I’m not driving you crazy with stupid ideas. I just now believe it has to be the wiring in truck some how, since it’s the new unknown. Just to let you know I am not an electrician, just someone who hates to give up on a problem!

Good Luck
Jim

One of the guys at work with an 18 or so Ford get the same message on his truck with my gooseneck and his gooseneck, but no one else gets the same issue. He does have an aftermarket hitch and trailer connector in the bed vs the factory one. Originally thinking it may be the plug in the bed, but hearing this, it could be the "smart" part of the trailer circuit not seeing enough resistance when pulsing the connections checking for connectivity.

Jlawles2 Joseph,

Your GM truck identifies the trailer through the lighting system as an FYI.


Jim

Guest Jim, I miss the old days. Yes it's nice to have creature comforts, but when things go wrong, it becomes a nightmare. What it can not tell me is when I had that Homer Simpson moment and completely forgot to plug in the trailer. I will say, truck did a great job through transmission braking to get me to a safe spot where I could plug in the trailer. One of those mornings where everything seemed to be going wrong and forgot to do that walk around to check all of the lights. Typically that is the last thing I do before climbing in the seat to pull out and travel. If the check out station is away from the general camping area and I have to get out to drop off the window tag (not at all places do they have things that need to be returned), I get out and do that walk around one more time just to be certain.

Joseph,

Agree. Simplicity can sometimes be better and especially when the high tech gizmos go wrong. I've notice that your Denali is a 2018 model so this is the conventional system and before they moved to detection through RPO U1D. So if you do not have the K68 light control module (another module?) you would connect in a conventional manner. I should have been more clear on that description.

I'm concerned with driver distraction as we progress with additional features in all vehicles. Some that is not necessary. On my wifes vehicle for example, I need to move through a menu to do different functions like positioning heat toward our feet or choose defrost where earlier models had buttons to make changes efficiently and quickly to prevent driver distraction.

Jim

Guest I agree. I prefer the turn knob or push button, having to navigate through screens is getting horrible. I see the new Cadillac is getting a 3/4 digital dash. Looks nice, lets see how function works out. https://www.cadillac.com/suvs/escalade about 1/2 way down (you probably have been looking at it for 3 years already)

Kinda like how the new windows has progressed from the originals. Almost miss DOS with the exception of multi program running DOS was fast. New widows layouts with the ribbon make people slow and in efficient. For autocad, I went back to the old 2000 layout set, no ribbon and keyboard commands. I'm getting slow, but still faster than the new people. Also, I do things my own way and once they learn and try it for themselves they see it's about fast and efficient.

Nice lunch with you two yesterday. The rest of you can be jealous because I got to sit in the new truck.

Wrongwayrver -- moved your question to it's own thread. See https://gdrvowners.com/towing-and-hi...ce-info-needed

Just got my topper installed, Leer 100XQ

Looks good! That would be very handy . . . if I didn't have this 5th wheel thing following me around .

Rob

Really enjoyed having a similar Leer topper long ago. Kept my dogs warm after hunting as well as so many other benefits.

Jim