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**Cate&Rob** · 02-06-2022, 08:28 AM

Originally posted by MidwestCamper View Post

Premium fuel today would be close to $4.00/gal. Sad or mad but certainly not glad . . .

Jim

Premium gasoline is close to the price of diesel at most stations. Regular gasoline is about 50 cents per gallon cheaper.

Rob

**Guest** · 02-06-2022, 08:40 AM

Originally posted by Cate&Rob View Post

Premium gasoline is close to the price of diesel at most stations. Regular gasoline is about 50 cents per gallon cheaper.

Rob

I filled up from just over a quarter tank (26 gal tank) where I dropped $50.00. $3.27/gal for regular is ridiculous.

I suspect your return trip will bring about 12mpg or better. But the price of fuel will remain painful.

Jim

**howson** · 02-06-2022, 09:13 AM

Cate&Rob ,
When you wrote "dialing out..." is the truck's SelectShift switch being referenced? I use these switches on my '17 when I know the truck will need to downshift or to keep the transmission out of 6th when going up and down slopes to avoid constant shifting. (Mine doesn't have the new 10-speed transmission.)

I'm using 9 mpg as a reference point to gauge "out of fuel" distances (when planning routes). Historically I average about 9.5.

Since the dually has a 48 gallon tank, that's 432 miles (9 * 48 = 432). Leaving about a quarter tank as reserve, the plan is to not go more than ~300 miles between fuel stops. Fuel is usually not the problem, though...it's normally bladder capacity (or lack thereof) that necessitates a stop.

**Guest** · 02-06-2022, 09:57 AM

Howard,

In the GM world this is referred to as TAPshift. Or TAP. I use this function in hilly terrain on my little gasser where sometimes human intervention is just better for control. Also as Brian stated not using tow haul can be helpful. Tow Haul functions better at higher GVWR.

Jim

**Jlawles2** · 02-06-2022, 10:04 AM

Cate&Rob Rob, as often as I look at the speedometer, I did not realize GM dumped the dual display of measurement. On my truck changing everything from one unit to the other is literally 15 seconds of steering wheel button pushes (probably less if I did it more often). Everything changes when the switch is made.

I figured Ford had something similar. Definitely makes taking vehicles cross borders easier when the dash can be in the required units.

**TedS** · 02-06-2022, 10:58 AM

I use the tow/haul mode when towing. I like the higher rpm shift points, higher on the torque curve. I do limit the top gear to 9, it has a better response to road changes. Gears 8, 9, and 10 are all overdrive ratios.

I average about 14 mpg when towing, about 19 not towing. I like the range of the 48 gallon fuel tank.

**Cate&Rob** · 02-06-2022, 12:19 PM

howson
In "D" the +/- buttons can be used to change the top gear that the transmission will reach. In "M" these buttons can be used to manually select the transmission gear. I have only used this feature in "D" to limit top gear. To keep the Ecoboost at a higher RPM on the highway and to eliminate the harsh 10-8 downshift on the diesel.

Jlawles2
GM does a much nicer job with one scale of numbers and the calibration of the needle changed to MPH or KPH. Ford still uses the second scale printed below the primary one.

Rob

**Yoda** · 02-06-2022, 12:29 PM

Originally posted by Cate&Rob View Post

Notes from our first tow with the 2022 F350:

1350 miles (Canada to Florida . . . running ahead of the recent storms)

10.5 MPG average (less than I was expecting) Paid between $3.50 and $4.20 per gallon! More expensive than the premium gasoline that I used to need for the Ecoboost! Towing range was 350 miles on a full tank.

The trailer is slightly higher at the front than before, but this does not seem to affect towing (see picture)

Lost the trailer brakes for a while (loose terminal in the cord end) which proved that good trailer brakes are still really important even with the heavier truck. The truck diagnostics did not identify this . . . which surprises me.

A recurring problem is a “Trailer Disconnected” warning randomly after braking. The trailer brakes are still there (confirmed with hand apply). This may have to do with the low current draw of the LED brake lights that I have installed or the EoH trailer brake apply. LED marker lights and turn signals do not cause a problem . . . hmmm.

Trailer running lights come on when shifting from P to D (like the truck DRLs). I did not set this up and cannot find a screen to modify this. Not necessarily bad . . . just curious.

The diesel obviously has way more torque than the Ecoboost but overall, the F350 does not handle the trailer much differently than the HDPP F150. Diesel engine braking is really nice . . . although the turbocharged Ecoboost was capable of an amazingly similar function.

On an approaching grade, the F350 10 speed transmission selects a rather abrupt 10 to 8 downshift. .Dialing out 10^th and running in 9^th made this downshift a much smoother 9 to 8. At a cruising speed of 62 MPH this increased engine RPM from about 1400 to about 1500. Why 62 MPH you might ask ?. . . because this is exactly 100 km/hr which is the much easier to see midpoint on a Canadian speedometer.

Rob

Great update. As for fuel mileage you not broke in yet. On my old truck that would be about 15K miles. Also when towing I used a Power Service cetain booster (white bottle). they make an injection cleaner/maintainer (silver bottle) and a product called 911 (a must to have). 911 (Bright orange bottle) is an anti-jell that can be used after the fact if things go south on you. My 04 gelled up coming north from Mississippi in the winter a long while back. I was running straight #2 and it got below zero in Amarillo. I opened the fuel filter up top and cleaned out the goo, added a cup of the 911, and the rest went into the tank. Gave it about an hour (got breakfast) and came back. It was a very rough start, but it did start - lots of white smoke. Once running the heater in the lower fuel filter was able to keep things flowing. Lesson learned I now treat any fuel I get coming north from the south in the winter.

Probably will use it on the new truck too. With my 04 I got about 1 MPG better - especially in the flat using the cetain boost, but I wasn't towing at 62MPH

.

Now for the brake warning popping up. There is a thread on the issue and the solution was an adapter plug from Amazon. Not sure if the thread was here or at the other place. If I have time I will look for it again.

Keith

**Cate&Rob** · 02-06-2022, 12:51 PM

Yoda

The adapter discussed on that other thread might solve the "Trailer Disconnected" warning . . . but, I think it will interfere with the lower connection point for the trailer camera and TPMS receiver. I am wondering if I can plug this device into the bumper location to add the necessary resistance? The other solution would be to add resistors to each brake light . . . assuming that the problem is the brake light circuit.

Rob

Attached Files

**Jlawles2** · 02-06-2022, 12:56 PM

Rob, you may be able to install one or two resistors in the pin box simulating the necessary loads vs having to pull each light and install a high heat generating device at a potential water inlet.

something like https://www.xenondepot.com/morimoto-...tor?quantity=1 in the pin box for the affected circuits may be all that is needed. Easily added and removed vs pulling lights.
If you need more https://www.diodedynamics.com/led-re...-kit-pair.html 50w

**Guest** · 02-06-2022, 01:00 PM

Originally posted by TedS View Post

I use the tow/haul mode when towing. I like the higher rpm shift points, higher on the torque curve. I do limit the top gear to 9, it has a better response to road changes. Gears 8, 9, and 10 are all overdrive ratios.

I average about 14 mpg when towing, about 19 not towing. I like the range of the 48 gallon fuel tank.

Ted,

Some may not need Tow Haul if their towing significantly below the trucks capacity. A 10K trailer is not much of a load for a full size diesel where Tow Haul is typically calibrated toward maximum capacity. Nice fuel economy.

Jim

**Guest** · 02-06-2022, 01:03 PM

Joseph,

The Denali is the only line that has the full LED IP. Nice truck as well.

Jim

**Cate&Rob** · 02-06-2022, 02:07 PM

Originally posted by Jlawles2 View Post

Rob, you may be able to install one or two resistors in the pin box simulating the necessary loads vs having to pull each light and install a high heat generating device at a potential water inlet.

something like https://www.xenondepot.com/morimoto-...tor?quantity=1 in the pin box for the affected circuits may be all that is needed. Easily added and removed vs pulling lights.
If you need more https://www.diodedynamics.com/led-re...-kit-pair.html 50w

Good idea Joseph! . . . the circuits are easy to access in the connection box at the pinbox.

Rob

**Jlawles2** · 02-06-2022, 04:22 PM

Cate&Rob Rob, I like easy. To me the pinbox location makes more sense in case one of them goes out. Why make it difficult when traveling. Also if you did the MCTuning box should be a no brainer to put ring terminals on the resistors and wire in vs butt connectors or the dreaded wire Ginsu connectors.

Guest Thanks Jim. The 17 and 18 Denali's had the 2 analogue gauges with the rest being LED interfaces. Not a fan of the new dash with it's hard lined bezels on the gauges. (kinda why i'm hanging on to the 18)

**Guest** · 02-06-2022, 05:21 PM

Originally posted by Jlawles2 View Post

Cate&Rob Rob, I like easy. To me the pinbox location makes more sense in case one of them goes out. Why make it difficult when traveling. Also if you did the MCTuning box should be a no brainer to put ring terminals on the resistors and wire in vs butt connectors or the dreaded wire Ginsu connectors.

Guest Thanks Jim. The 17 and 18 Denali's had the 2 analogue gauges with the rest being LED interfaces. Not a fan of the new dash with it's hard lined bezels on the gauges. (kinda why i'm hanging on to the 18)

Joseph,

I'm trying to hold off for this interior if there are any chips to support it.

https://www.autoblog.com/2021/09/09/...or-comparison/

Jim

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