Hi Keith,

Per our PM discussion, I would come at these old truck to new truck comparison measurements in a different way. For me, going from an 2014 HDPP F150 with air bags to a 2022 F350 . . . there were so many small differences (and I measured them all !) that the "calculation" became meaningless with every measurement being realistically +/- 1/4".

With the F150, the trailer overhang was 61" from the ground and the trailer frame was level to the ground.
With the F350, the trailer overhang is at 63" from the ground with the 2" hitch adapter plate but with the pinbox raised 1". (Same hitch setup)

This results in the trailer frame riding about 2" higher at the front than at the rear . . . but at the spring hangers, the front one is only about 1/4" higher than the rear one.

The F350 box is slightly longer (behind the axle) and the tailgate is slightly higher than the f150. This translates into a noticeable reduction in open tailgate to front of RV. Now at about 3”. I don’t like having to be straight on to the trailer to hitch/unhitch without risk of an open tailgate hitting the trailer. With my manual slider hitch I can gain 10 inches of space between back of truck and front of trailer for maneuvering. This allows hitch/unhitch at an angle with tailgate open. I will stay with my manual slider hitch . . . which means that I need the 2" puck-to-rails adapter in the truck bed . . . unless I can find a manual slide hitch that mounts directly to the pucks.

Rob

Cate&Rob Rob - you could look at the Curt hitch (A16) with slider rail base. This is the one I have and It fit the pucks on my 2020 F350 - no adapters were required. YMMV.

Yoda Keith, the holes in the pin box on the sides are there to allow for bed side clearance. There should be 8 bolts total in the pin box. I have 2 in each vertical row of holes on each side. When I replaced the pin box with the Morryde rubber one, I put the box back in the same spot.


Not the one i installed, but should give you an idea of options: https://www.morryde.com/wp-content/u...ers-Manual.pdf

Once you tow a bit and find that you do not like the chucking, you might look into the rubber one. For me it made a huge difference. Much smoother as the camper tugging on the truck across bumps is reduced by the rubber flexing.

I have an older Reese hitch and added the puck adapter frame. I then adjusted the hitch for vertical clearance rather than the pin box.

That's a compelling argument to use a slider hitch to increase the tailgate to trailer clearance during hitching and unhitching. Yep, I have bumped the front cargo door with my tailgate when I was too offline when hitching brand new truck and trailer :( .

KSC_Travels
Hi Ken . . . Thanks for the tip on the Curt . . . I will look into this. How would you judge the "chucking" on the Curt A16? I have more than I would like on the Reese, but "deal with it" to retain the manual slider feature.

Jlawles2
Hi Joseph . . . the Reflection 150 Series has a "Turning Point" pinbox that attaches to the trailer with wider "wings" than any of the standard hitches . None of the usual pinbox upgrades will fit (as far as I know). I have considered the MORryde pinbox with rubber cushioning, but because the chucking is within the various fits of the manual slider hitch, I don't think this would help much.

Rob

Thanks Rob for the help
Tailgate clearance was tight on my old set up too. Fortunately I have about 2" of hitch head for/aft adjustment, so will need to check that. I usually had DW lifting and lowering the gate in tight spots when hooking and unhooking - always from driver side in view.

NOW!!!!!
Its about time I get you to spend money for once https://www.bwtrailerhitches.com/pro...tch-ford-pucks

Thanks for everything

Keith

Hi Ted,

I kind of "stumbled" into this major benefit of the manual slider. I originally got this hitch because I was unsure about trailer cap to truck cab clearance . . . which has proven to not be much of a problem. I was thinking about going to a fixed location hitch to get rid of the chucking within the Reese Slider, but the few times that I tried backing and unhitching without sliding the hitch, it was not nearly as easy as just throwing the slider lever before every backing and hitching/unhitching process. Now, I just need to find a manual slider hitch that fits the Ford puck system and has no chucking. I can see where this is going to get expensive . . . gee, thanks guys .

Rob

Joseph
With my current Reese Titan R20 (Part # 30867) I have zero chucking due to the very tight tolerances of the hitch. You can't use a lube plate with it but the hitch top is made to be the lube plate (no grease needed). My old reese 16K chucked and bounced all over the place - quiet it was not.

The only down side is the hitch is not hook up or release friendly. In hooking up to get the lock handle 100% down I have to rock it to get it to click the last 3/8" and be flat.. If in any sort of a slight bind it was royal pain to unhook. On my trip to Georgia I had to release the bed rail pins and lift the whole hitch with the trailer (pad was level, but not approach) - once free of the rails it dropped free. I think it has to do with how the jaws are interlocked.



The handle must be out and up for the jaws open before you can drive out. I have tried to drive out with just the handle in the up unlock position, but no go..

So with the height / rial puck concerns I may just get a new B&W for the puck system and solve the issue.
Keith

Cate&Rob Rob, the rubber pin box catches the chucking created in the head lessing the jerking. I was worried that the play in the head to king pin would be what was causing the issue. Since the rubber slider is between the box and the pin, if the pin is loose in the head, there is still a bit of noise, but the jerk due to the inflexible connection between the pin and the box is alleviated in the rubber. I also slide coated the top of the hitch plate and the bottom of the pin box with https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...l?cm_vc=-10005 which helped a lot with connecting and disconnecting along with not having to deal with grease.

Yoda Keith, you might try greasing the jaws of that head. They look way too clean (my Pullrite was this way) and subject to binding. Once I got the various parts that move lubricated well (due to dealer / installer complete incompetence and lack of ability to read and comprehend instruction: btw not purchased with the GD) the hitching and unhitching changed 1000%. No more binding of the lock when trying to hitch or unhitch. Also note that graphite paint works well with the plastic lubricating plates.

Rob, I just remembered that Pullrite has these https://www.pullrite.com/4442 .

LOL The pictures were of it new But you make a good point. When I get time I just might take it apart and recheck the lubrication and any wear items. It does have the advantage of easy assembly and disassembly.


What I am still confused about is can I sift the pin box to the other set of holes if needed. While it is warm today I get what information I can find on it so I can call Lippert in the AM.

Keith

OK I went out and got a couple of pictures on the turning point pin box. The top row has welded capture nuts so it sure looks like they could be used..

Pin box label


Picture inside the pin box showing existing bolts and second row that can be used. Lippert got this on right as it is impossible to get a wrench to hold the forward nuts .

So tomorrow I will confirm with Lippert that this second row can be used if needed.

Jlawles2
Joseph Here is a picture of my dirty hitch head.
Handel is out in the open position. After tinkering with it and cleaning it I have some concerns with the slop in the locking arms and cam, so a call to Reese is needed too.

You might try greasing those few gear teeth. A little binding in those may be causing you issues.

My pull rite head is much different. the pin retainer is a rotating cuff that goes around at the groove in the pin.

Cate&Rob Hey Rob. No noticeable chucking - only a couple/few times that I remember. Tight tolerances between hitch jaws and kingpin and Curt recommends (and includes) the teflon/lube plate with the hitch. I did find, as others have mentioned, that the jaws need to be cleaned and lubed or hitching becomes difficult - like Joseph I learned this the hard way when I couldn't get the jaws to lock - but no problems since I figured that out.

I will say the slide lever seems to have a very heavy spring on it - heavier than my decade old Reese. That, combined with the height of the bed rails - I find it makes it a bit awkward/difficult to throw. Personally, I don't really use the slider that often (as you say cab clearances not a concern) so not an issue for me, but as you tend to use it more that may be more of a concern for you.

KSC_Travels Ken, unfortunately I have bad luck, so I chose to go with an auto slider. The few times I've been well past 45 are mostly when backing into the driveway, however, I did have a couple of instances in moving through areas where sharp turns were unavoidable. With this always in the back of my head, I chose to go with an auto slider. YES they are HEAVY. Would not consider going to a manual slider because as you mention trucks are getting higher and higher making it harder and harder to throw the levers.

Currently running a Superglide, but I might consider a Demko auto b/c it does not require the wedge plate (capture plate) due to the side bars.