I just weighed my 22 2400bh and it was between 760-840 depending on how I moved weight around in the trailer

Welcome to the forum, even of you are just shopping around.

While I haven't weighed my trailer for a bit, I can say you are asking the right questions, especially since the GVWR of the 2400BH is at your max towing capacity.

I am no means an expert, but to me I think you are looking at too much trailer for your tow vehicle, as the tongue weight of 505lbs will only be seen once in the lifetime of the trailer, when it leaves the factory and even then that reading is low. Once you get the trailer loaded up, you will need to account for propane (both the actual LP and tanks), batteries, and whatever gear you put into the unit that will add to the tongue weight. It adds up quickly, and again the GVWR is equal to your max tow rating.

Even with our TV, which is "rated" to tow ~11k lbs, I feel our 2400bh is enough for it and I wouldn't want to go much higher. Towing is hard work for a vehicle, and it's not just the element of making the trailer go, it's stopping the trailer, and keeping it in a straight line when the wind picks up or passing a semi.

I feel like I am being a downer for you, that is certainly not my intent, and again this is just my opinion based on my setup and I applaud you asking these questions. If you have any other questions though, fire away!

I'm ashamed to admit this, but I read this and thought, "Huh, I wonder if this is some sort of fridge appliance repair kit?". It wasn't until I started heading over to Google that it dawned on me what you were talking about.

I need to get out more

That's funny! There are days... Cheers!

My tongue weight is 740 pounds and with WDH engaged, drops to 640 pounds. Actually, the tongue weight of the 2400 runs on the light side and I have to make sure to load up front.

This is often a point thats overlooked. In order to get a certain trailer to "fit" an existing tow vehicle I have seen people try to reduce their tongue weight by avoiding loading the front or worse overloading the back. While this could potentially get a trailers tongue weight to where it needs to be for a certain vehicle, it can have a very negative effect on sway. Trailers will tow best when the tongue weight is up near 15% of the trailer weight, you get much below 12-13% and it can be very problematic. Hitches with sway control can alleviate some of that, but that treats the symptoms not the disease.

I am not saying any of this applies to the original poster, he is asking all the right things, I just wanted to make the point for anyone who searches and finds this thread.

Lambrosfl Welcome to the forum! We look forward to see you joining the family. The hitch weight is with absolutely nothing in the TT.

I don't think that's quite right, The_Duke. What changes is where the tongue weight (TW) is being carried--it doesn't "drop".

Simple example: pick up a 100lbs weight using a dead lift (straight up). Your arms "feel" all 100lbs. Now use a lever ("teeter-totter") to lift that same 100lbs--does not take near the same effort to lift. Did the weight change? Of course not--it's still 100lbs. The change is where the weight is "felt" or "carried".

To the best of my knowledge TW is measured without the WDH engaged (TW is normally 12-15% of the travel trailer's gross weight). Once established, the WDH is engaged so the tow vehicle's height from fender-to-wheel (both at the front and rear) return to as close as possible to where they started, or as least the ratio should be the same.

Thank you all for your replies and input. My MB GL350 is diesel...lots of torque. What is weird is that the OEM mercedes trailer hitch (ORIS) is rated 600lb TW, meanwhile the towing capacity of the car is 7500lb. It is a heavy duty hitch with two long bars that slide and mount inside the car's chassis, yet rated only 600lb TW. Also i believe there is an aftermarket brand (curt i think) that makes a hitch receiver for GL350, which is rated 900lb TW, and for sure does not look as strong as the oem.

Lambrosfl

You should also verify the payload capacity of your vehicle to ensure there is enough for the ~800lbs of trailer tongue weight, the weight of the WDH, the weight of you and any other occupants of the vehicle, and anything else that is in the car. This basically means, anything in the car that didn't come from the factory needs to be accounted for in that weight.

For reference, it's listed on the yellow sticker inside the driver's door jamb. It will say something along the lines of 'The combined weight of cargo and occupants should never exceed ####lbs / ###kgs'

Hello. I just joined the forum. I have been towing for more years than I care to admit, but for camping we have had a Coleman pop-up since 1993. We also picked a 2400BH. Our tow vehicle was purchased three years ago for this moment when we are stepping up. Max capacity is 9300 lbs with a 900 lb tongue weight. I consider the 2400BH at the very upper limit I will tow. My “limit” was 7000 lbs and 28 feet but my wife convinced me it would be in my best interests to stretch a little. 😁 The advice you have received above is spot on. A higher rated hitch will not raise your vehicles max rating of 600 lbs. The 2400BH loaded is just too much trailer for your vehicle. Please don’t do it!! I also checked with Will Robinson, and the Robot started exclaiming “DANGER…DANGER”. If you are really in love with the 2400BH, as we are, look into getting a different tow vehicle, if that is an option for you.
I hope this works out for you.

travismarc -- moved your posts (and related responses) to it's own thread. See https://gdrvowners.com/towing-and-hi...load-questions ( 2400BH w/GMC Truck Payload Questions )

Howard