Thanks for the pictures! How are you manually engaging trailer breaks? Emergency break pin on trailer?

I think I have decided against a gooseneck hitch for a more traditional 5th wheel hitch. I like that the bed is empty, but do not want to put additional stress on the trailer frame or have the possibility of the manufacturer voiding my warranty.

Thank you - will do.

As for the OEM companion I went with the 25K puck system and yes there is a goose neck ball hole included in the center with the 5th wheel prep system. The B&W hitch has performed flawless with no noise or bucking or chucking over the EXTREME road conditions I have had on the Alaska trip. I did adjust the lock down clamps at Homer in my normal checks - just assumed it was normal break in. It was a very slight tightening of the puck handle castle nuts.
Keith

Check with State Farm. When I check it depended on usage to them. For me as a personal pickup for towing it was the same based on costs as my F350 came out

Took some pictures today of how a manual slider hitch provides a lot more benefit that just cab clearance in a tight turn. Clearance between open tailgate and front of 5th wheel (while hitching) is significantly increased. It suits my home RV location to be able to hitch/unhitch at about 30*. At this angle, I still have several inches between the open tailgate and the RV. I can even open the trailer front compartment at this angle. When ready to tow, I move the slide lever, manually apply the trailer brakes, back the truck until the hitch locks in the tow position . . . and we are ready to go. Something to consider when selecting a hitch . . .

Rob

Manual Slider Hitch.pdf

That should have read - isn't the point to have the load directly over the rear axle while towing OR an inch or two forward (regardless of whether goose/5th wheel. If you go behind the axle, the weight will lift the front end more as well, reduced steering, breaking, etc.

Exactly. Going for the increased distance while hitching or unhitching (maybe - no purchases have been made!) I don't think with an 8' bed the slider would be needed for tight maneuvering.

That's a helpful tip for me....thank you!

Ouch - point taken.

I did not realize this about the 5th wheel setup...thank you!

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Hopefully have an appointment to actually see a GMC 3500 shortly! More to come on this thread!

TedS Ted by the looks of it that is the low profile one. I have the full profile.

3"


vs: 5-3/4"

I had an aftermarket LineX spray-in box liner in the 2014 F150, which is still wearing well and looking good. (my son now has this truck). I have the factory spray-in liner in the new truck (picture in post #40) which looks to be a very similar product.

Moving the hitch aft with the slider is definitely only for maneuvering. I am sure that I could turn 90* and clear the cab . . . but, I would not do that unless it was some sort of emergency. I can connect to the trailer at about 30 degrees (which suits my driveway at home) with the tailgate open. Another benefit of the manual slider is trailer response when backing. With the hitch behind the axle, the trailer begins to turn as soon as the truck is turned . . . much like a bumper pull trailer. With the hitch over the rear axle, it takes a lot more truck angle to get the 5th wheel trailer turning.

I have room for a couple of large totes in front of the hitch with the short box (in either truck). I suppose a toolbox could go there but I have never done this. With the diesel, I do carry a jug of DEF in one of those totes. This is also where I carry jacks and blocking for lifting the trailer, if needed.

Rob

Jlawles2 I have a similar toolbox. See post#38

My Ford bed has the factory spray-in liner with the puck system.
Tailgate to trailer clearance is tight. I have bumped the front cargo door. I now back up close to get the pinbox inside the bed then close the tailgate and finish hitching.

bellis I don't have a toolbox but have room in front of my pinbox for a "row" that's under my cover somewhat out of the rain. I keep my generator,and a couple storage totes there with water hoses and power extensions in it.

I have not towed with the extension so I'm not sure but I'd be surprised if it made a difference for sway, but four inches would be huge for connecting up when I can't be straight to the rig. Right now that's a dance of the wife holding the tailgate up while I back up to the rig.

Mine with dealer linex (not factory), which was done after the factory fifth wheel prep. A good linex dealer removes all the bed bolts and hardware before spraying so it's all removable. If not going factory I'd do the bed liner last.

Country Campers Brian, guess I'm the oddball. I have an over the rail toolbox with a short bed. I also run the standard profile Deep tub. https://www.uwsta.com/part/TBSD-69


bellis The manual sliders allow you to move the load back for access, not necessarily during towing. One could slide the hitch back for hitching and unhitching also as this would give the most clearance for the tailgate to camper clearance.

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I believe that Chevy does the spray in liner with the fifth wheel/gooseneck option, not sure what the others do, I will go that route when I get another truck someday as it will all be done. My Reese Elite hitch allows placement of the pin 2" ahead of the rear axle allowing for more weight distribution over the whole truck, I would not like to have the weight behind the axle centerline. With my Chevy I can not open the front storage all the way but can open the tailgate but can not pass between the tailgate and the front storage when tailgate down, have not had a need to do that. With the 8' bed I can do a 90 degree turn but have not had the need to do that either but the extra cab clearance is nice. You can use a tool box with the fifth wheel, on top of the bed rails or below there is room with the 8' bed. I have had one that sits on the bed and is below the rails before but found I carry too much stuff that is not needed and there is less room for firewood which I carry most of the time. If going on longer cross country trips I would put the tool box in and carry a couple DEF cans in there along with other needed items, mostly we camp locally and that is not needed. It is good to think ahead but almost impossible to plan for every option or need. Base the truck on the needs or future needs and deal with things as they come and make adjustments.

Brian

Is there room for a toolbox with the 5th wheel prep/hitch? Do you diesel owners tote around a bottle or two of DEF? Where do you stow it?

ncitro and @WondersAwait

I have been noodling on this for the past couple of days. This only gains 4 inches - so maybe it is not significant to sway, but going from 3 to 7" is not enough for me to really be between a 5th wheel and the truck either. A manual slider hitch that can adjust 12" (IE going from 3" to 15" might be the ticket here).

If the rig is further back (space gained is a win for the tailgate) - doesn't this in a small way defeat the purpose of the 5th wheel? I mean, isn't the point to have that load directly over the rear axle to prevent or eliminate all sway? If you move it back a little bit while towing, does that create the possibility of sway? At least a small amount?

Less significant to the above - it also introduces the question of order. Should the spray in bed liner be completed before 5th wheel and gooseball hitch prep or after? OR is it cleaner to have the factory do both? I would love to have the square gooseball shank and be able to turn it upside down - LOVE this. But, that system does not have a puck system which I do like. It seems like spray in liner after hitch prep is probably the way to go if not done by the factory.

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With the right setup is it possible to get 90 degrees truck to 5th wheel when manuvering?

bellis . . . You are researching this extremely well! Causing all of us to think about why we chose the trucks and hitches that we did.

I chose a manual slider as my first 5th wheel hitch because I was unsure of the trailer to cab clearance. I later came to learn the other benefits of being able to move the trailer back in the truck box without unhitching it.

My first hitch was a rail mounted Reese and I put many thousands of miles on that hitch. When I got the new F350 with the puck system I first went with an adapter frame much like TedS . This worked but I could not get the trailer low enough in the front to tow level.

I recently stepped up to a B&W Slider hitch that mounts directly to the Ford pucks. This allows the 5th wheel to tow level and has the added benefit of horizontal adjustment that gets the hitch back a couple of inches in the box (compared to the Reese) so I have gained those inches in tailgate to trailer clearance. I have yet to tow any great distance with this new combination, but the tolerances in the B&W are much tighter than the Reese. There is essentially no play between the truck and the trailer with the B&W hitch.

I know of situations with a goose neck horse trailer and a goose neck 5th wheel where the corner of the truck box has hit the underside of the trailer. Both with at least 8" of clearance between box rails and trailer overhang. So far . . . I have not encountered this interference with a traditional 5th wheel hitch.

The camera systems make alignment for hitching much easier, but I really like looking over my shoulder out the rear window where I can see the hitch and pin coming together. A slider hitch in a long box truck would be a unique configuration. You could be the first LOL!

I have to admit that GM seems to have thought through the whole truck-to-5th wheel connection geometry and access . . . better than Ford has.

See attached pictures of old hitch and adapter frame plus new B&W slider in the OEM pucks.

Rob

What I like about a regular fifth wheel hitch is the larger contact area. I asked a neighbor that towed gooseneck trailers mostly and has towed regular fifth wheels and he preferred the regular as it had less side to side tilting motion. I have only experience with the regular hitch. Another thought is that if you have an issue on the road you may need a special person or tow company to tow the unit off the road, with a regular hitch anybody can hook up and get you off the road, this is another reason I stayed with the regular hitch as we travel with a group and they have the regular hitch.

Brian

bellis here's my older Reese hitch on an adapter frame that fits the Ford puck system. The larger puck in the center would be for the gooseneck ball. To answer your question both are in the Ford puck setup.