Wed, Oct 27 (Day 33)

Fifth wheel hitches, weight-distribution hitches, and related topics were on the schedule today. Watched videos on the Superglide fifth wheel hitch (looks like an awesome setup), the Hensley Arrow WDH, and Pullrite's travel trailer setup--quite unique (I'd never seen it before).

Then we did a "show and tell" in the parking lot looking at the different configurations in our trucks. One guy has just the gooseneck ball (CLEAN truck bed--did not get a picture), there was a B&W, and another had a Curt. Yet another configuration was the Andersen gooseneck. The instructor has an airbag-equipped fifth wheel hitch (forget the name--pic is of him pointing to the Curt not his hitch). Very interesting looking at the different configurations.



Tomorrow we'll test out of the hitches and towing, so back to studying...

Howard

Howard,



Not Jim or Rob but here is a pic. You can seal the "lips" on the upper and lower of the seal with a gap in between, this is where the grease should go. When installing the hub with seal and bearing assembly onto the spindle the "lips" will wipe the grease off of the spindle. The grease between the "lips" will keep them soft and subtle and lubricated ( boy I sure hope someone does not suggest that SWMBO uses red and tacky).

Brian

Sorry, I still don't understand. A, B or C (or all of them)? Use the same grease as was put on the bearing? I'm not understanding why what Dexter shows in their video is not "correct". (At this point in a conversation in the class Bob would stop, look at me, and say something to the effect, "OK, let me say again REAL slow just for you, Howard!")

How about one more. 😁

Country Campers -- thanks, Brian and TedS

Hi Howard,

From your picture, I would say that the grease goes on all three of A, B and C.

The inside of the seal is typically two lips that run against the spindle as the seal turns with the hub. This is what keeps the grease from migrating past the seal . . . and it may not be intuitive . . . but, the interaction between these lips and the spindle has to be pre-greased (with bearing grease) to prevent wear. In an earlier iteration, another supplier was not greasing this interface and the seal lips would burn onto the spindle leaving two rubber rings . . . and, of course, no longer sealing in the grease. The attached picture is a spindle where this happened. You can see the black lines where the seal lips transferred to the spindle. It is better to place this grease between these lips of the seal because if the grease is put on the spindle, the seal lips may wipe this off during assembly.

The Dexter video goes on about slathering some type of sealer on the outer interface between the seal and the hub. I have never done this or previously seen it done. In the video it looks like the grease contaminates the sealer and vice versa.

Rob

The seal will wipe the spindle, but not dry. There will still be a lubricating film between the lips and spindle.

Hold a seal in your hand and the groove between A and B (the inner and otter seal lips) must be filled with wheel bearing grease. Teds and Brian's pic illustrates this point.
The Dexter video as pointed out by Ted and Rob shows adding sealant onto a greased hub which is meaningless. Sealant will not stick to a dirty or greased surface and is really not needed as long as the EZ Lube system is not used. Another error in the video is that the bearing is not actually being packed. The third is the lack of a torque wrench. I've not seen a single video on this process that is completely correct.

Back to three concrete pours.....

Jim

Seeing as we are on seals... I've always checked whether the seal has a spring or not..... seals are designed either with, or without a spring on the reverse side of the lip..which do people think are better?

Thurs, Oct 28 (Day 34)

Another day, another test (I passed). We could have spent another week on the towing and hitches topic--IMHO there could have been more examples (and the requirement to figure out) if a given tow vehicle will be within it's rated capacities with a given camper. I'd provide CAT scale tickets (with a description of the setup when weighed) then have the class figure out the math. But...no one asked for my .02

I was asked a question when we were reviewing hitch balls I didn't know the answer to: "What's the rating of the ball on your Blue Ox?" After a bit of digging I found it in the Blue Ox promotional material: 2,000 lbs. If I ever replace the ball (due to wear or whatever) it will have to match the OEM rating.

The afternoon lecture was on cooktops and we started into ranges. From the many, many threads on the topic I'm familiar with the poor performance of an "RV" oven in a range. One factor appears to be the seals (or lack thereof). Note that the bottom of the door cannot be sealed due to the need for secondary air (air used for combustion) flow into the oven.

Note the seals (how thin and small) and how they do not go all the way around the oven door.



Now look closely at how the air flows through the bottom of the door and into the area at the base of the oven. This is cold air from the floor in front of the oven. At first glance it looks like a radiator-type of setup could be incorporated below the burner section to preheat the air before it is allowed to enter the oven cavity. But that's me thinking too much (again).



Tomorrow is yet another test as we will finish up the Ranges and Ovens section. I have to memorize the sequence of operation...so signing off for tonight.

Howard

howson

Howard,

If they have a Furrion oven, or close match, in the classroom see if the thermocouple is replaceable, this will save me from tearing mine out of the camper.

Brian

Now what I really really want is an old fashoned brake controller that runs directly off the brake line pressure. Brakesmart did one with a Pezo sensor, it was originally or later became brakesmart. IMHO the new pendulum controllers suck, and integrated controllers still need some refinements.

howson Howard, I think the air ride 5th wheel hitch may have been a Hensley: https://hensleymfg.com/product/bd3-a...h-wheel-hitch/ I've seen a few threads by people buying older air ride setups and rebuilding them because they tow so smooth and easily attached vs the bagged pin boxes.

I have a superglide and it's nice. I did have contact between the cap and the tool box (hitch not high enough and could not move pin box down enough). Solved that issue by sub framing the superglide.

One thing they need to teach prospective tech's is HOW TO READ DIRECTIONS. My superglide was improperly assembled with the cross bolt impacted to the point it would not pivot side to side with the trailer, and the feet were put on again so tight that it deformed the tubing slightly.

Bob emphasizes this all the time. Apparently the women that have been through the class are notoriously good at reading directions. The men? Not so good.

I won't mention the specifics, but the ability to follow directions is even part of our exams. (And yes, there are a few that mess up each time.)

Fri, Oct 29 (Day 35)

Tested out of Ranges after spending the morning with hands-on time with four different ranges. One was quite old and had a "Safety Valve" setup, then an Atwood, a Furrion (like the one in my 315RLTS) and finally a large Insignia.



As documented in other threads, there aren't any parts available for the Furrion--if it breaks the only option (that I know of) is to have it replaced.

Furnaces is the topic for next week. Looking forward to it!

Howard