Sub floor

[howson]

Suggestions requested.

I doubt our host, GDRV-Megan, will (or can) suggest anything outside of the OEM standard. She is a GD employee so that is to be expected--right?

If the goal is protecting the Darco from further deterioration, is there a way to add a "sacrificial" second layer? The idea is that if that second layer gets worn, torn, or whatever, it's easy to just replace with another one leaving the original layer intact and the luan above the Darco protected. There's any number of materials you can use other than Darco--the trick will be in the security of the installation and avoiding any unintended consequences as previously discussed.

Out of curiosity I googled "what sticks to Darco" and it led me (eventually) to Amazon. I entered "Mobile Home Flex Mend Belly Bottom Repair-Patch Underbelly Holes/Rips" into the search field in Amazon and got a number of products that apparently will stick to the Darco and provide that extra layer of protection you're looking for without a lot of fuss.

I have no personal experience with these products! If you try one you do so at your own risk. In your shoes, I'd get a piece of Darco and a small sample of one of the adhesives as shown below and do a test before applying anything to my trailer.

[Cate&Rob]

You guys may be under-estimating the durability of the plastic layer on the underside of the flooring. This layer will never stand up to a flailing tire tread (per pictures from TucsonJim) but is more than durable enough for water spray. The attached picture is taken today on my 2015 Reflection with 5 years and over 25,000 towing miles. Many of those miles on wet roads and/or in driving rain. We just got home. so if I had washed this clean, it would look even better. I am not worried about water spray wear on this material . . . I am considering the sheet metal reinforcement for protection from a tire failure.

Rob

[howson]

The attached picture is taken today on my 2015 Reflection with 5 years and over 25,000 towing miles. Many of those miles on wet roads and/or in driving rain. We just got home. so if I had washed this clean, it would look even better. I am not worried about water spray wear on this material . . . I am considering the sheet metal reinforcement for protection from a tire failure.

I must admit being dubious of being able to protect the camper from a flailing piece of rubber. Is there any evidence of someone actually installing protective plates and then having a failure where we can see the results? Weight is always such a major consideration--and the 315RLTS is one of the worst culprits for too much storage space vs not enough GVWR--that for me this is one of the last items I'd add. My .02 (and worth less): have good insurance and be hyper-vigilant about maintaining the tires.

For the Dacor--I agree. I'd leave it alone but keep an eye on it. Looks like it is easy enough to patch should it become necessary.

[Cate&Rob]

howson
I would think that 3/16” aluminum sheet would provide substantial protection with reasonable weight . . . at least, that’s my plan.
Rob

[howson]

howson
I would think that 3/16” aluminum sheet would provide substantial protection with reasonable weight . . . at least, that’s my plan.
Rob

Shoot--once you start you'll end up rebuilding the entire frame. You'll be staring right at that suspension while you're working down there, too, so it should be also be afraid. Very afraid.

As always, look forward to reading (and seeing pics) of what you're doing.

[Cate&Rob]

Shoot--once you start you'll end up rebuilding the entire frame. You'll be staring right at that suspension while you're working down there, too, so it should be also be afraid. Very afraid.

As always, look forward to reading (and seeing pics) of what you're doing.

Nope. (Already done the suspension). I’m just going to duplicate what TucsonJim shows in post 18 . . . only in aluminum for ease of fabrication and weight saving.

Rob

[Country Campers]

A word of caution when using aluminum "corrosion". Aluminum likes to eat all kinds of other materials , even stainless fasteners. I realize stainless might be a little heavier and a lot more $$ but it will not corrode the other materials that it will come in contact with.

Brian

[Yoda]

I am in the process of planing my armoring too and have settled on the 3/16 aluminum like Cate&Rob . Its not been warm enough to really get measurements, but there appears to be enough steel frame to screw to along the edges. In addition the silicone or other sealant that I will be using on the edges will act as an adhesive. Given aluminum and steel don't mix, I will be using stainless steel fasteners. Fastenall has a pretty good selection. I could go self tapping, but have learned it is better to pre-drill and screw. Where I dont have frame I will be using the plusnuts I have left over from my bowed awning fix. I plan to use cardboard and make templates and then have the panels cut at my local sheet metal shop. I am looking at going further out and creating a downward facing outer lip to try and protect the skirting - also will add strength.

I'm watching this thread for any better ideas.

Keith

[Cate&Rob]

A word of caution when using aluminum "corrosion". Aluminum likes to eat all kinds of other materials , even stainless fasteners. I realize stainless might be a little heavier and a lot more $$ but it will not corrode the other materials that it will come in contact with.

Brian

Actually, the corrosion (galvanic) is the other way around. Aluminum will corrode (anode) in contact with steel or stainless steel (cathode). This is why aluminum is uses for the anodes attached to other metals in marine applications. If you look closely at an aluminum material attached with stainless steel fasteners, the white powdery corrosion comes from pitting in the aluminum. The fastener may be jammed in this corrosion, but will not be deteriorated. See the galvanic series attached.

How do I know this? . . . I have a large aluminum hulled boat. If I am not careful, I become the anode for all the steel pilings and brass/stainless appendages in the harbour. I use magnesium anodes on my boat to galvanically protect the aluminum hull. And, an isolation transformer in the shore power connection . . . but, that is a whole other story.

So . . . back to this project. The aluminum sheet will corrode (in the presence of water . . . faster in the presence of salt water) but this will be minor. The ease of working with aluminum and it's light weight will still make it the material of choice for me.

Rob

[Country Campers]

Actually, the corrosion (galvanic) is the other way around. Aluminum will corrode (anode) in contact with steel or stainless steel (cathode). This is why aluminum is uses for the anodes attached to other metals in marine applications. If you look closely at an aluminum material attached with stainless steel fasteners, the white powdery corrosion comes from pitting in the aluminum. The fastener may be jammed in this corrosion, but will not be deteriorated. See the galvanic series attached.

How do I know this? . . . I have a large aluminum hulled boat. If I am not careful, I become the anode for all the steel pilings and brass/stainless appendages in the harbour. I use magnesium anodes on my boat to galvanically protect the aluminum hull. And, an isolation transformer in the shore power connection . . . but, that is a whole other story.

So . . . back to this project. The aluminum sheet will corrode (in the presence of water . . . faster in the presence of salt water) but this will be minor. The ease of working with aluminum and it's light weight will still make it the material of choice for me.

Rob

I knew you would get "scientific" on me. I do agree that for the small exposure that aluminum would be a good choice. Avoiding salty roads and constant travel will help this not be a problem.

Brian

[Krohsis]

howson , it never hurts to ask, right?

@Cate&Rob, I have significant deterioration after probably 700 miles in heavy rain. So much so, I even have one point where the Darco failed and I can see wood underneath. Looking at your picture, it isn't as close up as mine, but I see degradation of your Darco, although it may not be as bad as mine, again due to not being a close up it is hard to tell.

Since we don't have solid wood in our flooring per @GDRV Megan, screwing metal sheeting on there is not longer an option for 315RLTS owners like me. Also, putting on additional pieces of Darco wouldn't be my first choice. Mostly because where the Darco has been sprayed on by water is no longer adhered to the wood flooring. It is now free from the wood, and adding more weight of additional layer of Darco will cause other problems down the road.

So, not sure what I will do for the end result. Maybe I will remove the Darco altogether, and puts something else on there in its place, like Linex, or similar....just speculating at this point not having researched the next fix. I was excited to do the sheet metal, stainless steel for the protection from a blowout, and the added benefit of fixing the original problem. I don't believe aluminum would provide any where near as much protection from a blow out, so the additional cost would give more protection and the added weight isn't a problem as I have lots of reserve before exceeding my gross weight.

GD should be ashamed of themselves for not doing a better job here. Like I said before, I have NEVER had this with any of my other RVs from a New Horizons down to a my first trailer a Terry. They all had sheet metal in the wheel wells.

[howson]

...and the added weight isn't a problem as I have lots of reserve before exceeding my gross weight.

Weight isn't a problem in a 315RLTS? Au contraire! Have you taken your camper across a CAT scale "ready to camp"? There's WAY more room to store stuff in our camper than there is GVWR to handle it. Maybe your DW doesn't pack to survive a zombie apocalypse every time you go somewhere? (Mine does! And she's got a washer & dryer, too.)

What you also may not know is the heaviest point on your camper is the front street side tire (below the refrigerator). I had each tire individually weighed by the Escapees using their SmartWeigh system and that tire is by far the heaviest. With all the additions I added to my 315 the weight issue was such a concern I spent (almost ashamed to admit it) big bucks to get MORryde's Independent Suspension installed. If you're going to have a failure on the road that causes an issue, IMO you're much more likely to experience a broken spring, bent axle, or hanger failure than damage from a blown tire. If you haven't read my thread yet, check this out: https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...ts-post-1-of-3

[Cate&Rob]

Krohsis,

With reference to your comment, today I took a close-up picture of the material in question directly above a tire (see attached). This is after 5 years and 25,000 miles as referenced earlier. Many times driving in heavy rain. I can find no breaks, tears, or worn through spots over any of the tires. Above this plastic (on my trailer) is soft fibreglass batt insulation. If there were any perforations in the waterproof layer, this "sponge" would be holding water.

The protective sheeting (be it steel or aluminum) will span from the frame rail flange to the outer edge aluminum frame on the floor above. As shown in post 18. I expect that this would be the same for either floor construction.

Since we have no proof either way, between steel and aluminum, we can each make our own engineering judgement. My opinion is that a flopping tire tread will not burst through 3/16" aluminum. Hopefully, I never have to find out.

Rob

[Krohsis]

howson Oh, not my first rodeo, I always weigh to get a baseline fully loaded. The only thing I haven't been able to do yet is weigh each side/each tire. Maybe at a GD Rally.

[Krohsis]

GDRV-Megan can you tell me the "wall thickness" of the aluminum square tubing for the flooring in the 315RLTS? #3 in your above photo. Thanks!