Roof Gutter Inspection Results (It's Ugly)

[howson]

I suspect you don’t need a helper if you pop a staple through the gutter.

I think you and Joseph are spot on--the staples were driven in so a single person could then drive in the screws during production. It's all about speed...

[NoPeeking]

If anyone has tips and tricks on how to make that cap seal look good when applying Alpha sealant, please share. My application looks like crap.[/QUOTE]

Application of any sealant or caulk is truly an art... hits home if you've ever watched someone who knows what they're doing. I just try to prepare as best as possible... 3 rolls paper towel, 2 litres acetone, 2 rolls frog tape and a couple pairs of old jeans... and oh yah, baby oil or suntan lotion to remove from appendages. Seriously, I've learned to think about how much sealant I'll need for the size of the gap, then cut the hole in tube half as big. Less is more.

Mike

[Jlawles2]

NoPeeking howson 2 very important things I have learned in life.

1 - Caulking is an art that I have never and probably will never master.
2 - Painting is like Caulking. No good at that one either.

Other than that, always plan on wearing what you are working with (grease, anti-seize, caulk, paint, etc). Any type of liquid works with silicone and latex based caulking compounds, be prepared to re apply the liquid lubricant.

[Guest]

Here is a video that illustrates a similar method that I use. I may not be quite as good as this fellow though.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bSGWF7N01C0

For silicone or other material, a plastic razorblade is very effective at cleaning up the joint. Mineral spirits can be used to clean the joint even at the gutter/TPO interface but this should be followed up quickly with dawn dish soap and water to prep the surface.
For silicone joints found around the windows and other areas, use a wax and silicone remover found at auto paint stores. The silicone remover will not remove a thick bead of silicone but rather will remove the thin film after the plastic razorblade is used to remove the bulk of the material.

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-pr...ting-prep.html

https://www.amazon.com/FOSHIO-Scrape...ps%2C95&sr=8-5

Jim

[howson]

Guest (Jim) -- so will the mineral spirit trick work on Alpha sealant, to? Interesting that the "Pete" guy uses mineral spirits on the side caulking--GD techs use the ammonia-free window cleaner.

Definitely learned I'm trying to do too much at once. And using too much material, too. Thanks for posting the link.

Howard

[Guest]

Guest (Jim) -- so will the mineral spirit trick work on Alpha sealant, to? Interesting that the "Pete" guy uses mineral spirits on the side caulking--GD techs use the ammonia-free window cleaner.

Definitely learned I'm trying to do too much at once. And using too much material, too. Thanks for posting the link.

Howard

Howard,

I wrote Alpha a few years ago where they stated in several documents to clean the surface but never stated how. They told me that after I carefully remove the old caulk to use mineral spirits quickly followed by soap and water. I like Dawn dish soap. Its a good cleaner degreaser and also shares the same name as my DW so it can't be bad. LOL.

The mineral spirits used in prepping the surface will leave the TPO as white as the day it was made.

Jim

[Guest]

howson Howard,

Thank you in pointing us to the video which in turn lead us (me) to the improved gutter cap material. The 100' roll arrived yesterday and the material looks good. Soft and pliable where it looks like it will be easy to install.

Jim

[howson]

howson...and the material looks good. Soft and pliable where it looks like it will be easy to install.

The only issue, Jim, that I've found so far is the lack of a method to "cap" the leading and trailing edge. The old material is longer than the gutter and is folded back underneath at both ends. When the gutter is secured to the trailer the material fold effectively closes the leading (and trailing) edge. The new material is too thick to fold back underneath the gutter, so that leaves a small hole. (Just look at the end of the new material and imagine it installed in the gutter--you'll see what I'm referencing.) I closed the ends with sealant. Not ideal, but the only thing I could think of to do.

[Country Campers]

howson

Howard ,

Would this work for end caps?

Amazon.com: Temple Products 10 Pack RV Camper Trailer Aluminum Black Flat End Cap for Trim Molding 1" & Screws : Automotive

Brian

[howson]

Country Campers Wow--that's some Amazon-Fi on display, Brian. (Looks like it will work--thanks!) Added to my list...

[Guest]

Country Campers Brian I have seen these caps used where after looking up a video on Youtube it may be an option. Good call. It would need sealing where the screw would be exposed. Not a big deal.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-_nxXL0Bf6U

howson Howard, looking at the cap material I believe (without being at the rig) that you can trim off the inner portion of the cap material (the inside part) and roll it back under at the end points. I would also use sealant.

Jim

[howson]

...looking at the cap material I believe (without being at the rig) that you can trim off the inner portion of the cap material (the inside part) and roll it back under at the end points. I would also use sealant.

Dang--you guys are too smart (or I'm not very creative). That's a clever thought and might just work, though the material on the new cover is quite thick. Be cautious about creating a gap between the gutter and roof material or the whole purpose of installing the new material is defeated.

[flyfshrockies]

howson and all. That is certainly a BIG job, been there done that. A little late on this, years ago I had an issue much as yours was. When I removed the gutter it was obvious that sealing and water were a real problem. After some serious contemplation I decided to remove the gutter, loosen the edge of the roof material and I put the butyl tape under the roof material and over the siding, installed staples between where the screws for gutter were going to go then replaced the gutter. Doing it that way provided a seal that was proper from a water flow stand point i.e, from roof over sealing material, seal material over siding. All screws were coated in silicone before installation. For me that worked and I never had to seal from the top again!

Dave

[howson]

Two days of work and the awning is back up (and yes, it works). Learned a lot...mostly what not to do. I'll write up a new thread topic as it is worthy of it's own discussion. (When it's posted I'm come back here and post a link.)

Howard

[howson]

Forgot about this until I just stumbled across the card...the gutter liner referenced in All About RV's video (embedded in post 1) can be ordered direct at a discount. The business card below was in the order I received.