Closed cell rigid foam board - confused on types and designations

[Yoda]

OK with the frame repairs again on my mind I got to thinking how to secure the rigid foam insulation and then got to looking for local sources. In searching Home Depot and Lowe's, the closed cell high density (5R per inch) is available. Its the pink stuff. Same for Lowe's . I seem to remember a higher density blue stuff a few years back that was close to 8R per inch. Now I am also seeing foil bonded and sealed foam boards or varying R values. All appear to have different designation labeling. I am assuming the guberment got involved with some new regulations.

Is there a premier out there to understand all the numbers?

From what is available locally I think I want the pink stuff (closed cell) with the R5 per inch rating or better to insulate the underbelly https://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-Co...DNGX/315197962

But what happened to the blue stuff?

There is a commercial supply house in town, so I may drop in tomorrow and ask. For the trailer do I need anything really higher than say an r10 if I can fit the 2"?

Thanks for educating me - I don't want to over engineer this.

Keith

[Jlawles2]

Avoid the foil backed stuff as it's usually not as dense as the other and the foil can peel (been there done that). There is a Dow Blue board (just used some 1/2" on a roofing project) that is very similar to the pink board.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Dow-Common-...ier/1000168163

Found this chart: https://www.attainablehome.com/what-...rd-insulation/

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Yoda
Are you going to turn the 220RK into the 220RK-B17G version like Rob?

[Yoda]

Avoid the foil backed stuff as it's usually not as dense as the other and the foil can peel (been there done that). There is a Dow Blue board (just used some 1/2" on a roofing project) that is very similar to the pink board.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Dow-Common-...ier/1000168163

Found this chart: https://www.attainablehome.com/what-...rd-insulation/

T&G sounds interesting. As for the Polyisocyanurate I think I read somewhere is looses R value over time - like 25% at 10 years, but I might look into it.

Thanks for the links.
Keith

[Yoda]

Yoda
Are you going to turn the 220RK into the 220RK-B17G version like Rob?

LOL

In a way but different. No doors (I don't have that skill set) just removable sections that are fairly easy to take down and put back. The sections would cover strategic areas that might need maintenance more often. I think I identified them in my coroplast thread.

Keith

[Cate&Rob]

Cross bars can be used to hold the sheets of rigid foam (with fabricated "twist latches") and provide additional attachment points for the coroplast. See post 12 at https://gdrvowners.com/forum/exterio...al-replacement.

Rob

[Yoda]

Cross bars can be used to hold the sheets of rigid foam (with fabricated "twist latches") and provide additional attachment points for the coroplast. See post 12 at https://gdrvowners.com/forum/exterio...al-replacement.

Rob

Yep I had that in mind until we realized the entire frame needs the 2x2 sub frame, which means the top of the rigid foam can ride against the cross bar. I don't know how to describe, but the foam would need to be supported on the edges as the sheets would span the full width covering the existing cross bars. I guess I could use some all thread and make studs to go through the foam and use fender washers? I need to do that at several locations anyway to support the propane line cross over points.

Thanks for the help

Keith

[Cate&Rob]

Yep I had that in mind until we realized the entire frame needs the 2x2 sub frame:

Why not run the cross bars between the sub frames, with all lower surfaces flush for coroplast to attach to? No need to go thicker than 1” rigid foam . . . that’s about all there is in the walls and slides anyway.

Rob

[Yoda]

That's the plan then I will have a new flush frame to screw everything to.

[Jlawles2]

I guess you could go for quick fasteners: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrd-192 if they will hold a race car fender on at 100+ MPH, then they should hold a camper together.

[Yoda]

I guess you could go for quick fasteners: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrd-192 if they will hold a race car fender on at 100+ MPH, then they should hold a camper together.

LOL You are trying to set me up as a B17......but to laugh I do have some 200 mph duct tape

I ran across some vinyl L channel (window trim) that I can make clips out of easily and I will probably use the strong carpet tape to secure clips. to the inside of the 2x2 sub frame. If I ever need the foam down all I need to do is run an exact-o box knife blade behind it to cut them free, and then just use new tape to reinstall. For center supports and for the propane line I will use some 1/4" or 3/16' all thread that can extend through the foam thickness and use big fender washers to be sure when securing I don't pull through the foam.

And I did discover what happened to the Blue Dow foam board. The EPA got involved and they had to take the blue dye out - it is now grayish in color. Same as the pink stuff though as far a R value.

Thanks for the help folks

Happy Thanksgiving
Keith

[Cate&Rob]

In today's episode of "let's throw another curve at Keith" . . . if you are dividing the coroplast into smaller sections, have you considered running the seam lengthwise rather than crosswise? In the times that I have had to drop the coroplast I am usually tracking something that runs all or part of the length of the trailer down one side or the other. I really don't need access to the other side of the underbelly. A centre seam would also make removing/replacing the coroplast around the suspension hangers much easier.

Rob

[TedS]

I guess you could go for quick fasteners: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrd-192 if they will hold a race car fender on at 100+ MPH, then they should hold a camper together.

When I was designing ****pit panels form aircraft, we used Dzus fasteners. A lot of variations have been added in the elapsed 60 years. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=dzus+fast...l_4aci2coqcu_e

On edit. Thank you censorship: what do you call the space in which pilots control aircraft?

[Cate&Rob]

On edit. Thank you censorship: what do you call the space in which pilots control aircraft?

LOL! We don't have control over this level censorship . . . it is automatic in the forum software. Similar to a small valve known as a pet****.

Rob

[Yoda]

In today's episode of "let's throw another curve at Keith" . . . if you are dividing the coroplast into smaller sections, have you considered running the seam lengthwise rather than crosswise? In the times that I have had to drop the coroplast I am usually tracking something that runs all or part of the length of the trailer down one side or the other. I really don't need access to the other side of the underbelly. A centre seam would also make removing/replacing the coroplast around the suspension hangers much easier.

Rob

UGG!!!

Now my head really hurts. Me thinks I better hide for a while