Short circuit or surge?

[AlexPeterson]

Poor neutral connections in those rec's will not smoke equipment. If open neutral caused the smoked equipment, it's between the pedestal and the dist. panel.

Yes, this is the most probable explanation. It could also be in the pedestal itself. But dgerfan has a Surge Guard which would catch open neutrals upstream.

So, it must be after the Surge Guard up to the power distribution panel.

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Yes, this is the most probable explanation. It could also be in the pedestal itself. But dgerfan has a Surge Guard which would catch open neutrals upstream.

So, it must be after the Surge Guard up to the power distribution panel.

I agree that is most probable, but I'm willing to believe the surge guard could be the problem. Until it is proved out, it's in the mix. Now...to prove it out safely while you are suspecting an open neutral on a 50a trailer service... May have to bypass. If after checking all the wires thoroughly between surge guard and panel, and in the panel. I would go to the surge guard next.

[howson]

AlexPeterson and Scott'n'Wendy -- if dgerfan has the AMSolar Smart Phase Selector wired in a typical fashion, it will be exactly where the two of you suspect the issue is located: between the pedestal and Power Distribution Panel. It's still on my "suspect" list, too.

Update: Diagram removed due to concern documented in post 34. -Howard

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Not so sure about that diagram Howard. Against code to use a black wire as neutral in an AC system. But that aside, we are talking a southwire surge guard, not an inverter no?

[AlexPeterson]

I agree that is most probable, but I'm willing to believe the surge guard could be the problem. Until it is proved out, it's in the mix. Now...to prove it out safely while you are suspecting an open neutral on a 50a trailer service... May have to bypass. If after checking all the wires thoroughly between surge guard and panel, and in the panel. I would go to the surge guard next.

Good point.

[howson]

Not so sure about that diagram Howard. Against code to use a black wire as neutral in an AC system. But that aside, we are talking a southwire surge guard, not an inverter no?

In post 23 dgerfan references an "SPS". I assume he means AMSolar's Smart Phase Selector. If that's true, then maybe the diagram below will help (an old original from AMSolar when it was called the "Smart Automatic Transfer Switch").

The point is the SPS, if it exists in the OP's system, is between the plug and breaker panel.

[dgerfan]

Yoda Yes the outlet with the paper still around the ground was the outlet where the night light got fried. Instead of fixing it I will trash all the outlets in the circuit and replace with household ones. In the meantime the breaker for all these outlets will stay off.

AlexPeterson I measured .4v in all the outlets in the RV even the ones that are not on the same circuit as the problematic bunkroom and bedroom outlets. I think I know how to use a volt meter but maybe I'm doing something wrong. Going to ask a neighbor to use by meter in their RV and see what readings they get. If they don't get .4v reading in each outlet than maybe its the SPS.

howson Yes I have a SPS and its wired exactly like post #36 diagram. I checked out the post you mentioned and don't see the same physical damage on my SPS. I opened a ticket with AM Solar and they immediately replied with (1) We can provide replacement parts for the SPS. and (2) You can replace it with SPS 3.0 which in their words is a complete redesign or (3) They would sell me a Multiplus II which would remove the need for the SPS altogether. I'm reading into their response a little but I find it odd that they didn't at least try some troubleshooting maybe there are known with the first two revisions.

[dgerfan]

I agree that is most probable, but I'm willing to believe the surge guard could be the problem. Until it is proved out, it's in the mix. Now...to prove it out safely while you are suspecting an open neutral on a 50a trailer service... May have to bypass. If after checking all the wires thoroughly between surge guard and panel, and in the panel. I would go to the surge guard next.

I checked the cables the romex cables from the Inverter to the SPS and to the breaker box and don't see any signs of chaffing, burn edges, etc... Went thru the breaker box and tightened down all the cables.

[Scott'n'Wendy]

I checked the cables the romex cables from the Inverter to the SPS and to the breaker box and don't see any signs of chaffing, burn edges, etc... Went thru the breaker box and tightened down all the cables.

Then I believe we are being pointed at the SPS. And I like their response. Good customer service. Now is the time to get a multiplus II if you are thinking of it at all.
And I agree....I don't think you are the first they have heard from with the symptoms you describe...if they are willing to send you a redesigned part to replace it without a few t-shooting questions first.

[dgerfan]

I have a couple questions regarding replacing all the outlets on the bunk room/bedroom circuit. First I decided to go with non-tamper resistant outlets because the TP outlets can be a pain to put plugs into. Two of the outlets are only supported by 1/8" luan. Also I'm going to put a GFI on the first outlet in the circuit just because you never no where a water leak in a RV will form.

Now to the questions about wiring the first and middle of the run outlets where there is more than one ground, neutral and hot:

1.) I realize a pigtail is required to wire the two grounds however aren't sure if its best to connect via a wire nut or Wago or another method.

2.) Read somewhere (forget the source) that the better way to wire the hots and the neutrals is with a pigtail vs connecting the individual hot and neutrals to there own lugs. The thinking is that the pigtail will prevent the outlet from heating up.

As always appreciate your help.

[Yoda]

I have a couple questions regarding replacing all the outlets on the bunk room/bedroom circuit. First I decided to go with non-tamper resistant outlets because the TP outlets can be a pain to put plugs into. Two of the outlets are only supported by 1/8" luan. Also I'm going to put a GFI on the first outlet in the circuit just because you never no where a water leak in a RV will form.

Now to the questions about wiring the first and middle of the run outlets where there is more than one ground, neutral and hot:

1.) I realize a pigtail is required to wire the two grounds however aren't sure if its best to connect via a wire nut or Wago or another method.

2.) Read somewhere (forget the source) that the better way to wire the hots and the neutrals is with a pigtail vs connecting the individual hot and neutrals to there own lugs. The thinking is that the pigtail will prevent the outlet from heating up.

As always appreciate your help.

I dont know if this helps, but on my house wiring I used pigtails to feed outlets in series and it passed inspection. However some of the newer outlets instructions have holes you push the conductor into (usually 2 holes side by side) and then tighten the side nut, so you use the outlet as the inline connection.

[howson]

dgerfan - I just watched a video by the Everyday Home Repair guy on YouTube the other day. Fast forward to the 8:12 mark. I like the way he used Wago and pigtails.

Howard

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nWfEANZOYSk

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Use the receptacle, not wire nuts etc. Box capacity is by conductor count. Wire nuts count as another conductor. You are not likely allowed two nomex cables plus a rec in a shallow box. Definitely not with a gfci.
I say probably, because I'm not sure of American elect code.

[dgerfan]

Scott'n'Wendy Good point, unfortunately the largest receptacle that will fit in the shallow bunk room walls only support a total 6 conductors. If I"m understanding it right at minimum there is a total of 9 conductors: Outlet (1), Ground(2), Neutral(2), Hot(2), Ground Pigtail(1), Wire Nut/Wago/or something else (1). Is this correct? If so what other options are out there? I want to be code compliant however at the same time don't like the RV outlets.

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Scott'n'Wendy Good point, unfortunately the largest receptacle that will fit in the shallow bunk room walls only support a total 6 conductors. If I"m understanding it right at minimum there is a total of 9 conductors: Outlet (1), Ground(2), Neutral(2), Hot(2), Ground Pigtail(1), Wire Nut/Wago/or something else (1). Is this correct? If so what other options are out there? I want to be code compliant however at the same time don't like the RV outlets.

If I remember right, the receptacle counts as two, insulated wires are one each, grounds are zero, each wire nut is one. So if you don't use a wire nut, and the shallow box is good for a six conductor count, you are good. But a GFCI counts as more than two conductors so you will need a bigger box for that one.