Victron shows input shore power neutral not jumpered through the switch.
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Dogbone Blows Shore Power Breaker -- Multiplus?
Collapse
X
-
I agree with TedS on this . . . 120VAC neutral is NOT the same as 12VDC ground. Line and Neutral should connect only from the power source in use. I can see where the MultiPlus confuses this because it "boosts" shorepower. It must somehow sync with the frequency of the shorepower.
RobCate & Rob
(with Border Collies Molly & Angel + Kitties Hazel & Elsie)
2015 Reflection 303RLS
2022 F350 Diesel CC SB SRW Lariat
Bayham, Ontario, Canada
Comment
-
Found this thread in my searching. Note comments to NOT bond shore neutral with Multiplus output ac neutral. Has to do with Multiplus internal ats operation.
https://expeditionportal.com/forum/t....192084/page-2Ted
2021 Reflection 310RLS
2020 F350 PS,CC,LB,SRW
- Likes 1
Comment
-
OK, I'm an idiot. I posted the wrong freakin' schematics. I'm going to go back and delete the wrong ones and annotate the posts as appropriate.
These two below are current (and are shown in the https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...-manual-switch thread).
Sheesh--all, please accept my apologies.
Last edited by howson; 04-29-2023, 01:33 PM.Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.
Howard & Francine
2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus
Comment
-
TedS
I totally get the wiring for a 30A RV. What I can't wrap my head around is running the neutral in (from shore) only to the Multiplus' in with a 50A setup.
Below is an old AMSolar diagram of their SmartATS. Isn't what I did with the switch the same as their "SmartATS" except I have to throw the switch manually?
Granted it was a mistake on my part to join the hots in the dogbone (a "Not 50A" scenario) and neglected to move the manual switch.
Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.
Howard & Francine
2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus
Comment
-
Yes, except theirs does not hot red through to the panel if I remember your diagram. After I post this I will go back and look.
On edit: Ignore this, you changed diagrams.
on edit: their shore red out of the stock ats does not go into the Smart ats. Why? They connected Multiplus 'out' to Smart ats shore 'in', only one hot.Last edited by TedS; 04-29-2023, 02:17 PM.Ted
2021 Reflection 310RLS
2020 F350 PS,CC,LB,SRW
Comment
-
TedS, Scott'n'Wendy, Jkwilson and Cate&Rob
So the consensus is the wiring below is how the switch and Multiplus should be wired?
Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.
Howard & Francine
2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus
Comment
-
Wow...this thread has progressed since this morning....
I'm not a multiplus owner...so I'm a little weak there...but I like the neutral wiring over the previous deleted drawings. I'm willing to bet the multiplus does not switch the neutral internally.
Looks much better to me than what I remember of the first post.
Have you rewired like that already? And do you still have the shore breaker issue?
2018 Dodge 3500 6.7 Cummins w Aisin and 9 cup holders
2021 303RLS
Electricians were created because engineers need heroes too...
Comment
-
Scott'n'Wendy Post 21 is how it is now. Yes, with that config the breaker blows if the switch is in the 50A position and I use a dogbone that has the hots connected. Everything works fine with a standard 50A cord plugged into a 50A outlet with the switch set to 50A as currently configured.
Post 24 is what I think you guys are recommending is correct with the neutral. (I didn't even think that was a problem...but is what you guys are focusing on so trying to learn why.)
TedS -- sorry...Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.
Howard & Francine
2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus
- Likes 1
Comment
-
Howard,
In your first diagram, Line 2 (Hot) needs a neutral to complete the circuit. I don't think this neutral can go back through the MultiPlus because it is out of phase (but, I don't really understand how the MultiPlus "boosts" available current). Neutrals need to switch when the Hot circuits are switched. More complex with your switch, but the concept is DPDT. One pole is Hot and one pole is Neutral.
RobCate & Rob
(with Border Collies Molly & Angel + Kitties Hazel & Elsie)
2015 Reflection 303RLS
2022 F350 Diesel CC SB SRW Lariat
Bayham, Ontario, Canada
Comment
-
Well..I've worn out my welcome with this thread. I don't understand why it works, but as it's wired now works without any issue (and has for over two years). Without a clear understanding of what to change (and why) I'm leaving it as is. All I have to do when using a dogbone is ensure I switch over to the "Not 50" position.
At the risk of going OT, I wonder if it would have been better to wire in the switch before the EMS. If the neutral should be lost due to a switch malfunction, the EMS wouldn't allow power to pass to the camper.
Food for thought for another day...Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.
Howard & Francine
2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus
Comment
Comment