Can't Seem To Fix Hot Skin Problem

[TedS]

howson, Jkwilson , there is an electrical illustration in the attachment in post 14.

[Scott'n'Wendy]

And the really perplexing part is that even with the main breaker in the camper in the off position, the outside skin, screws, windows, etc. are still going beep, beep with a Non-Contact voltage tester.

A non contact voltage tester is not a reliable hot skin detector.
Hot skin will be caused by the supply or faulty grounding on the trailer. No need to expand on Jkwilson's explanation. Pretty much covers it. But..finding it...can take time. First try a different supply. imo.

[howson]

With everything wired properly, the ECG is tied to the same point as the neutral at the service panel...

Doh! "ECG" means "Earth Common Ground"? Sokol writes "EGC" or "Equipment Grounding Conductor"--same thing I assume. This morning when I read your response it "clicked". Thanks for the reply!

Reading your response and the linked article from TedS sent me down a rabbit hole. Sokol has a bunch of articles on the topic (which the OP is probably already aware). I've read all of the info in the past, but it's so infrequently referenced a refresh of the gray matter is required.

Based on the quote below, there appears to be complete agreement the issue is something related to the ground.

First, you must have a lost ground wire in your RV’s shore power connection. This is technically called the EGC (for Equipment Grounding Conductor) and it needs to have a solid connection from the frame of your RV, through your shore power cord, through the pedestal connections, all the way back to the service panel’s neutral/ground bonding point. If that EGC connection is secure, then it should be impossible for your RV chassis/skin voltage to exceed more than 5 volts to earth. -Mike Sokol RVelectricity™ – RV hot-skin voltage causes: Part 1

Oldguy001 -- if you can't isolate the problem, what is consistent throughout Sokol's articles is the urgency to get the problem fixed by calling a licensed electrician. Please post back once the issue is found and fixed with details.

Howard

[Cate&Rob]

As mentioned earlier, it takes two problems to create a hot skin condition. There has to be high resistance short between the line (L1 or black wire) and the RV frame for you to discover that you do not have a low resistance ground connection back to the source of the electricity. Since this reportedly occurred with the installation of the new air conditioner and power taken from the circuit provided for the front television . . . there is likely a problem there as well.

Rob

[Jkwilson]

Doh! "ECG" means "Earth Common Ground"? Sokol writes "EGC" or "Equipment Grounding Conductor"--same thing I assume. This morning when I read your response it "clicked". Thanks for the reply!

Reading your response and the linked article from TedS sent me down a rabbit hole. Sokol has a bunch of articles on the topic (which the OP is probably already aware). I've read all of the info in the past, but it's so infrequently referenced a refresh of the gray matter is required.

Based on the quote below, there appears to be complete agreement the issue is something related to the ground.

First, you must have a lost ground wire in your RV’s shore power connection. This is technically called the EGC (for Equipment Grounding Conductor) and it needs to have a solid connection from the frame of your RV, through your shore power cord, through the pedestal connections, all the way back to the service panel’s neutral/ground bonding point. If that EGC connection is secure, then it should be impossible for your RV chassis/skin voltage to exceed more than 5 volts to earth. -Mike Sokol RVelectricity™ – RV hot-skin voltage causes: Part 1

Oldguy001 -- if you can't isolate the problem, what is consistent throughout Sokol's articles is the urgency to get the problem fixed by calling a licensed electrician. Please post back once the issue is found and fixed with details.

Howard

EGC is what I meant to type. I use ECG in another field and either I fat fingered it or my iPad decide to “helpfully” correct me

[Yoda]

Watching and learning here. My dad had this happen in his Airstream (70's) Don't remember the what it was or the fix, but Mom was not happy.. I think they had to rewire a bunch of stuff.

Oldguy001 Is there anyway to get some picture of the wiring in the AC unit and where he tied into that TV power. Just maybe the experts here might spot something. Also what model AC unit was installed?

Just curious

Keith

[TedS]

A quick first test would be the ground continuity through the power cable to the trailer chassis. If that tests good, then the power cable is good and connected to the chassis. If that test bad, then test the ground continuity in the power cable itself. If the cable tests bad, that's the broken ground culprit. If the cable ground wire tests good, then the ground connection to the chassis is the broken ground culprit. Oldguy001 do you have a volt-ohm-meter?