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Odd problem swapping out my WFCO 9855

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  • Odd problem swapping out my WFCO 9855

    Planned a quick swap this afternoon. I was going to leave the functional 9855 in place as a spare, and install the new converter. If you count shutting off power as step one, I’m hung up at step two in removing the converter output wires.

    The screws are standard hex head with no slot. I’d guess it’s 5 or 6 mm (Edit: It’s 5/32”) as my calibrated eyeball says it’s smaller than 1/4”. But there is no way in heck to get a tool on it.

    The insulators for the terminals are hard plastic, and the opening is no bigger than the hex head and maybe even smaller. Any tool that would fit on the hex head would have to be larger than the opening, and there is no give whatsoever. I’m baffled as how to non-destructively remove them.

    I could cut the top 1/2” or so off of the insulators or drill them out and get access, but I hate to chew it up in case I’d decide to sell it. I’ve checked that the insulators don’t pop out and get out of the way and that there isn’t access from the bottom, but no luck. I even rolled out my old faithful trick of grabbing a beer and sitting on a bucket staring at it for 15 minutes with no luck. I’m at a loss. Any ideas?
    Last edited by Jkwilson; 04-16-2024, 06:30 PM.
    John & Kathy
    2014 Reflection 303RLS
    2014 F250 SC SB 6.2

  • #2
    Apologies, I'm no technical help... after failure of the beer n' bucket troubleshooting step, my go-to is a big hammer.

    Mike
    Mike & Sonya
    2017 Silverado 1500, 5.3, Tow Pkg, RAS
    Blue Ox SwayPro
    2021 2400BH (DeBunked)

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    • #3
      Are you saying the 5/32 hex is too large for the hole in the insulator?
      Ted
      2021 Reflection 310RLS
      2020 F350 PS,CC,LB,SRW

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      • #4
        Originally posted by TedS View Post
        Are you saying the 5/32 hex is too large for the hole in the insulator?
        Yes. I tried two. One from my mechanic tools and one from my electronics tools. One has a uniform shaft. The other has a narrow shaft that expands at the actual driver part, and I hoped I could kind of lever that in. Eyeballing it, the outside walls of a driver would have to be paper thin. When I saw it, I assumed the insulators were soft.

        I’ve been googling thin wall nut drivers, but I have little confidence any will fit. The Wiha set is promising, but $50 for a set seems silly for such a simple thing.
        Last edited by Jkwilson; 04-16-2024, 07:21 PM.
        John & Kathy
        2014 Reflection 303RLS
        2014 F250 SC SB 6.2

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by NoPeeking View Post
          Apologies, I'm no technical help... after failure of the beer n' bucket troubleshooting step, my go-to is a big hammer.

          Mike
          If it was non-functional, about 10 minutes into beer’n’bucket is when a chisel and hammer or Dremel would have gone to work. 🔨
          John & Kathy
          2014 Reflection 303RLS
          2014 F250 SC SB 6.2

          Comment


          • #6
            Jkwilson all the info I looked at a hex wrench fits the hole. It shouldn't need a nut driver for the hex drive setscrew.

            A WFCO video says a 9/32 hex key.
            Ted
            2021 Reflection 310RLS
            2020 F350 PS,CC,LB,SRW

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by TedS View Post
              Jkwilson all the info I looked at a hex wrench fits the hole. It shouldn't need a nut driver for the hex drive setscrew.

              A WFCO video says a 9/32 hex key.
              I wish! The manual says 5/16” hex driver, but there is no possibility it’s correct for mine. A 1/4” nut driver is larger that the top part of the insulator, much less the hole.

              I’m thinking I’ll try chucking a nut driver in a drill and grinding it down to see I can make it fit
              Last edited by Jkwilson; 04-16-2024, 09:18 PM.
              John & Kathy
              2014 Reflection 303RLS
              2014 F250 SC SB 6.2

              Comment


              • #8
                So the screw is a external hex head and not an internal hex drive. That is odd.
                Ted
                2021 Reflection 310RLS
                2020 F350 PS,CC,LB,SRW

                Comment


                • #9
                  I just took a look at my spare 9855 on the work bench and there doesn't seem to be a way of removing the plastic covers without damage. So if you have hex head rather than allen head screws. You need to cut the top of the plastic off. The converter is riveted together so you can't even open up the case to get at the release tabs for the plastic covers.

                  Or...just snip the wires..
                  Attached Files
                  Last edited by Scott'n'Wendy; 04-17-2024, 12:05 PM.
                  2018 Dodge 3500 6.7 Cummins w Aisin and 9 cup holders
                  2021 303RLS
                  Electricians were created because engineers need heroes too...

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Jkwilson

                    John, could you post a picture of this thing? Mine looks just like the picture Scott'n'Wendy Scott linked to post 9.

                    Rob
                    Cate & Rob
                    (with Border Collies Molly & Angel + Kitties Hazel & Elsie)
                    2015 Reflection 303RLS
                    2022 F350 Diesel CC SB SRW Lariat
                    Bayham, Ontario, Canada

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Jkwilson View Post
                      Planned a quick swap this afternoon. I was going to leave the functional 9855 in place as a spare, and install the new converter. If you count shutting off power as step one, I’m hung up at step two in removing the converter output wires.

                      The screws are standard hex head with no slot. I’d guess it’s 5 or 6 mm (Edit: It’s 5/32”) as my calibrated eyeball says it’s smaller than 1/4”. But there is no way in heck to get a tool on it.

                      The insulators for the terminals are hard plastic, and the opening is no bigger than the hex head and maybe even smaller. Any tool that would fit on the hex head would have to be larger than the opening, and there is no give whatsoever. I’m baffled as how to non-destructively remove them.

                      I could cut the top 1/2” or so off of the insulators or drill them out and get access, but I hate to chew it up in case I’d decide to sell it. I’ve checked that the insulators don’t pop out and get out of the way and that there isn’t access from the bottom, but no luck. I even rolled out my old faithful trick of grabbing a beer and sitting on a bucket staring at it for 15 minutes with no luck. I’m at a loss. Any ideas?
                      John - you have me stumped. Is your converter like the one Scott pictured (stand alone)? If so why not leave the black and red wires attached and just remove the connection in the distribution panel.and secure them. While my converter was different (contained inside the distribution panel bottom, I left the wires attached to the converter and just removed the wires form the 12v positive and negative panel lugs. I guess then you would make up new wires for your new converter.

                      As I put in a Multiplus I did not need to do that as the mutiplus provides the 12v charging and power through the battery connections.

                      Just brainstorming here
                      Keith
                      2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th whee, Star White 2022 F350 King Ranch CC Long bed (HAL) (CCC 4062lbs), B&W 25K OEM Companion,. SteadyFast system, Trailer reverse lights, rear receiver spare tire holder, storage tube, sumo springs, Victron MultiPlus 12/120/3000, Solar, Custom 6K axles upgrade, and other modifications.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Jkwilson View Post
                        Planned a quick swap this afternoon. I was going to leave the functional 9855 in place as a spare, and install the new converter. If you count shutting off power as step one, I’m hung up at step two in removing the converter output wires.

                        .Any ideas?
                        Don't neglect to upgrade your short-stop fuse along with converter install. Our GD 2670MK came with a 30amp auto-reset fuse located under the frame near the external battery box. A lithium compatible converter will likely pull peak 40amps. Our original short-stop eventually failed with all the restarts.

                        Click image for larger version

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                        Al & Ann
                        F150 with Max Tow Pkg.
                        Imagine 2670MK (2021)

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                        • #13
                          Just FYI, I figured it out. I’ve got to head out shortly, so it will be tomorrow before I can post pictures. Some will find it amusing.
                          John & Kathy
                          2014 Reflection 303RLS
                          2014 F250 SC SB 6.2

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Jkwilson View Post
                            Just FYI, I figured it out. I’ve got to head out shortly, so it will be tomorrow before I can post pictures. Some will find it amusing.
                            Sure....leave us all hanging.....Ahhh....engineers.....
                            2018 Dodge 3500 6.7 Cummins w Aisin and 9 cup holders
                            2021 303RLS
                            Electricians were created because engineers need heroes too...

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                            • #15



                              Click image for larger version

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                              What’s the fastener on the left?

                              John & Kathy
                              2014 Reflection 303RLS
                              2014 F250 SC SB 6.2

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