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  • Well - I am behind on my posts....will try to get a couple in for updates.

    Prior to installing the solar panels - I looked at my gear - and my diagram and realized that where I thought the fuse went (and the fact it was a PV connection on both side) was not going to work between the combiner box and the switch. Furthermore, it was a 15A breaker and at ~27 amps I would have instantly blown it. So, I called continuous resources up to ask questions about my order. They apologized and said they messed up....they only sent me 1 and they didn't send me enough cable either (I was going to figure this out and make due on the cable side). So....I placed another order with continuous resources.

    Despite the battery switch and the flat breaker being adequate - I realized that I was running out of room and did not want my wife or kids to mistake the master battery switch with the solar switch. So, I bought their midnight breaker box. I am hoping it has a smaller footprint than what I was doing and if nothing else will be more different.

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    • This past Saturday - my father and father in law helped out again.....were were able to get all the panels on the roof.

      While the following video did not have a parts list - I used the idea and put the panels on like this guy: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UY98...index=3&t=515s

      I may try to get a complete parts list together at some point and post it (at least as best as I can).

      I bought 10' channel strut from Lowe's and we carried it to the roof. I also purchased a number of washers - we put a minimum of 1 and sometimes 2 beneath the rail where we were going to screw in. One in the rail to grab and pull the rail down. Prior to putting the lower washers down, we put a dab of dicor. After screwing in, we covered again with dicor.

      We also assembled the tilt mounts and attached to the locking mechanism and bolts I had also purchased from Lowe's. We used this to lock the panels in and then tighten the bolt down. The bolt screws directly into the locking mechanism. No washers, nuts, etc.

      I'm just praying that it all holds up!

      The braces for tilting the panels would not go in the down state with 2 of the bolts through the 2 holes. I am going to drill a third hole in this small tilt brace so that while in the down or moving orientation I can have 2 bolts (all 3) attached to the tilt bracket and locked in place. I prefer this as opposed to potentially taking 12 pieces of metal and maybe 12 bolts and wingnuts down for storage somewhere. Plus, it will just secure the panel down that much more.

      I do not like how in the down position the knobs and wingnuts are kinda hard to do. Thank goodness for the channel strut and the tilt bracket or it would be impossible to get my hands under there.

      Other than drilling, I need to install the new breaker (on off), put the fuses on each panel, and wire everything up. Pictures/video are not great - but for your enjoyment!
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      • Oh - last but not least. I experimented with the placement of the temperature monitor on the smartshunt over a period of weeks....I had it on the battery + bus bar...that worked fine...but I noticed bluetooth was always on and the shunt was always on....draining power....so I moved it to after the master battery switch. Now, I was not getting SOC information when powered on. I think it had to be fully charged to gain the SOC reading. I certainly did not care for this. So, I looked around - AM Solar says it does use power...but if no bluetooth usage...it consumes 8 amp hours per year. That's not significant...so now, hopefully it's final resting place is directly on one of the battery terminals.

        Updated diagrams to reflect the above change.

        Also, updated the solar diagram to reflect proper fusing and to include the new breaker solution.
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        • So - one complaint - Continuous resources messed up on the first order....no big deal. The 2nd order - I later kicked in a question about wire sizes for the breakers....It appears I am going to have to reduce the cable size to get it to fit. I did buy a reducer and was looking for 4 AWG wire at Lowe's last night in prep...but they only had 6 AWG..

          So from the roof down is 2 AWG - it only will take (barely) 4 AWG. Not sure if I will use the reducer and 6 AWG or just try to trim it down....Fortunately; I think only one of my breakers will have an issue - I will just have to replace my existing wire to the MPPT with 2AWG on the 100A side. I think I have 2/0 in crammed in there now (larger than the largest supported)...it was tough....

          From Continuous Resources:

          50A breaker = 4AWG (it fits, but it is a tight fit).


          100A breaker = 2AWG (it fits, but it is a tight fit).
          2020 Imagine 2400BH
          2017 Ford F350 Platinum FX4/4x4 SuperCrew 6.7L V8 Diesel 9' Bed SRW, Leveled + Airbags

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          • Hallelujah! Solar is done! Everything is wired up and just waiting on sunlight.

            I posted pics of the panels previously...so here is a pic of the new breaker. Cannot wait to see PV coming in! Praying my UV square tabs will hold up (wire management).


            No for serious questions:

            1. On the way home from an 8 hour out of state trip....we accidentally left the AC on as well as the water pump and the fridge. You can imagine my surprise opening the camper door 2 hours in; to find the air blowing. /doh I tested this again tonight....Inverter on, AC on...no problem. The last component in this thread is the easystart. The Multiplus only outputs 25A max.....and clearly the AC is below that or it would not start. So...do I install the EasyStart or just forget about it?

            2. On the roof. I put a little extra dicor on a couple spots I thought might have been scuffs from shoes (probably weren't scuffs - but absolutely paranoid). That roofing is soooo thin....so I put excess dicor on it (what was left in the tube) and tossed the tube. A couple of days later it looks like the dicor has a wave in it. For self leveling I am surprised....and now very concerned. And advice?

            3. So, I know the order always has to be MPPT on and then solar breaker thrown. What happens if that is followed, it is charging, and someone throws your master battery switch....doh. Does it brick the MPPT? This hasn't happened....just curious - for my own edification.
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            • Q1) Do you foresee a convergence of low battery power, little sunlight, no shore power, air conditioning required by the DW so running a small generator is mandatory? If yes, install the EasyStart. If no, maybe not.

              Q2) Sounds cosmetic by your description. (Post a picture?)

              Q3) Unlikely anything will brick. Before turning the master back on, though, I'd go around and turn off the devices and then power them all back up in the proper sequence.
              Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

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              • Originally posted by howson View Post
                Q1) Do you foresee a convergence of low battery power, little sunlight, no shore power, air conditioning required by the DW so running a small generator is mandatory? If yes, install the EasyStart. If no, maybe not.

                Q2) Sounds cosmetic by your description. (Post a picture?)

                Q3) Unlikely anything will brick. Before turning the master back on, though, I'd go around and turn off the devices and then power them all back up in the proper sequence.
                So - perhaps I should test running the AC with the generator connected? I do have the power assist turned on; but I see your point about low battery. Other than a multimeter....I will have to see if VRM has the AC amps pulled....

                Will try to get a pic of roof soon.

                Thanks for the info!
                2020 Imagine 2400BH
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                • howson Here is a pic of the roof.
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                  • Originally posted by bellis View Post
                    howson Here is a pic of the roof.
                    I doubt that will be a cause for worry, bellis, but It is odd that the self-leveling sealant didn't coalesce into a more of a "hot dog roll" shape with a smooth top. Almost looks like a boot stepped through it.
                    Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

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                    • Originally posted by bellis View Post
                      Hallelujah! Solar is done! Everything is wired up and just waiting on sunlight.

                      I posted pics of the panels previously...so here is a pic of the new breaker. Cannot wait to see PV coming in! Praying my UV square tabs will hold up (wire management).


                      No for serious questions:

                      2. On the roof. I put a little extra dicor on a couple spots I thought might have been scuffs from shoes (probably weren't scuffs - but absolutely paranoid). That roofing is soooo thin....so I put excess dicor on it (what was left in the tube) and tossed the tube. A couple of days later it looks like the dicor has a wave in it. For self leveling I am surprised....and now very concerned. And advice?
                      Curious
                      If I am not mistaken you roof is an Alpha system TPO and Dicor is the incorrect product to use. Needs to be an Alpha Systems product.Could that be the cause of the issue. It sure did not look like it self leveled. What kind of temperatures were you at?

                      Just trying to help.
                      Keith

                      PS Thanks for your documentation. I am watching this for answers on my project. Especially getting the larger wire size into the MPPY units. I am going to try and use my crimper to compress the end wires. The dies in my set go small enough.


                      2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th whee, Star White 2022 F350 King Ranch CC Long bed (HAL) (CCC 4062lbs), B&W 25K OEM Companion,. SteadyFast system, Trailer reverse lights, rear receiver spare tire holder, storage tube, sumo springs, Victron MultiPlus 12/120/3000, Solar, Custom 6K axles upgrade, and other modifications.

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                      • Originally posted by Yoda View Post

                        Curious
                        If I am not mistaken you roof is an Alpha system TPO and Dicor is the incorrect product to use. Needs to be an Alpha Systems product.Could that be the cause of the issue. It sure did not look like it self leveled. What kind of temperatures were you at?

                        Just trying to help.
                        Keith

                        PS Thanks for your documentation. I am watching this for answers on my project. Especially getting the larger wire size into the MPPY units. I am going to try and use my crimper to compress the end wires. The dies in my set go small enough.

                        I was able to get 2 AWG on all sides of the breaker. It was not difficult.

                        As to the roof...according to Campers Inn site.

                        Grand Design uses laminated aluminum framed construction on the side, rear walls and the roof of every slide room. The roof has a wood truss frame, which provides a full walk-on roof and better insulation, so you stay comfortable. There is also a no-streak thermoplastic polyolefin (TPO) roof covering with a 12-year warranty.
                        This is what I purchased:
                        https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H554R98...v_ov_lig_dp_it

                        According to Dicor's Site.

                        Dicor’s HAPS Free Self-Leveling Lap Sealant creates a secure, secondary seal along the roof’s edges, air vents, vent pipes and screw heads. Compatible with EPDM, TPO and PVC membranes, it adheres firmly to aluminum, mortar, wood, vinyl, galvanized metal, fiberglass and concrete
                        Yoda or howson (or anyone) please feel free to double check/correct me....I want to know if the above is incorrect.
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                        • bellis

                          The "gotcha" is the 12 year warranty is literally the TPO material, not the "roof" like what we may think of as the roof. And that's only for the material itself. Damage due to leaks at joints or whatever...nope.

                          For the sealant...I've always used Alpha sealants. I've read Dicor is compatible, but I've stuck with the roof OEM's goop since the cost difference is negligible and it removes any possibility of finger-pointing by Alpha Systems should I have an issue.

                          We've gotten way off track on your solar thread. Probably best to ask about side issues in a separate thread as all of this will not be found by someone searching for a roof thread.

                          Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

                          2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

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                          • Originally posted by howson View Post
                            bellis

                            The "gotcha" is the 12 year warranty is literally the TPO material, not the "roof" like what we may think of as the roof. And that's only for the material itself. Damage due to leaks at joints or whatever...nope.

                            For the sealant...I've always used Alpha sealants. I've read Dicor is compatible, but I've stuck with the roof OEM's goop since the cost difference is negligible and it removes any possibility of finger-pointing by Alpha Systems should I have an issue.

                            We've gotten way off track on your solar thread. Probably best to ask about side issues in a separate thread as all of this will not be found by someone searching for a roof thread.
                            We have - apologies to all for the side track...although it was related to the solar install! At risk of additional sidetracking; is this what you use? https://www.amazon.com/Alpha-Systems...230321&sr=8-14
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                            • Originally posted by bellis View Post

                              We have - apologies to all for the side track...although it was related to the solar install! At risk of additional sidetracking; is this what you use? https://www.amazon.com/Alpha-Systems...230321&sr=8-14
                              yes

                              An alternative is "SuperFlex" which is the same product just in a different tube. (Non sag shown as an example--they have a self-leveling version, too)

                              Click image for larger version

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                              Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

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                              • Just throwing a little gasoline on the fire. I was in Camper's Inn when I needed to reseal something on my roof in a hurry. They sold me Dicor and said it's what they use in the service bays.
                                Mike
                                2017 Imagine 2800BH pushing a 2019 Ford F150 Platinum

                                Formerly: 2002 Rockwood Popup
                                Location: Massachusetts

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