Trailer will not run on battery power

[Follow the Dots]

We have recently discovered an issue that when we are unplugged from shore power, the trailer will not switch over to the battery power. No jacks, no slides, no internal clock. The battery (original) has been tested and is charged to 13.2V. We have boon docked several times for multiple days with no problems or issues. I have checked the battery disconnect switch and that is in the OFF position. Does anyone have any DYI ideas about where to start? I am feeling that it is the converter or maybe an inline fuse. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Michael
2020 Imagine 2450 RL
2019 Ford F-250

[StephenO]

We have recently discovered an issue that when we are unplugged from shore power, the trailer will not switch over to the battery power. No jacks, no slides, no internal clock. The battery (original) has been tested and is charged to 13.2V. We have boon docked several times for multiple days with no problems or issues. I have checked the battery disconnect switch and that is in the OFF position. Does anyone have any DYI ideas about where to start? I am feeling that it is the converter or maybe an inline fuse. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Michael
2020 Imagine 2450 RL
2019 Ford F-250

Just double checking, but the battery disconnect switch is in the off position you say? If so, it makes sense that most things are not operating inside the trailer. However, even with the disconnect in the off position, some things will still run, mainly the propane leak detector and your power jack.

Simplistic approach for fixing this is start at the source and work your way down. You've stated the battery is charged and assuming it's able to supply enough current when under load, it shouldn't be that. Next I would check that you have a good ground connection from the battery to the frame screw. After that, follow your positive to the self resetting fuse to ensure that connection is solid. If those connections are good, follow both of them to the power center.

[StephenO]

Follow the Dots I also see this is your first post. When you get a chance, check out the welcome letter the forum admins have made https://gdrvowners.com/forum/main-fo...to-new-members

[StephenO]

Follow the Dots - sorry Michael, one additional thing that just came to mind, but if your electrical 12v system is truely not working, you should address this before towing the trailer. If your battery and 12v system is not available, you potentially have no breakaway brakes on the trailer. Could make a bad situation that much worse....

[howson]

We have recently discovered an issue that when we are unplugged from shore power, the trailer will not switch over to the battery power. No jacks, no slides, no internal clock. The battery (original) has been tested and is charged to 13.2V. We have boon docked several times for multiple days with no problems or issues. I have checked the battery disconnect switch and that is in the OFF position. Does anyone have any DYI ideas about where to start? I am feeling that it is the converter or maybe an inline fuse. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Michael
2020 Imagine 2450 RL
2019 Ford F-250

First--welcome to the forum, Michael.

If the powered tongue jack isn't working, there *should* be a 30A inline fuse somewhere between where the wire hooks up to the self-resetting circuit breaker and the jack itself. The status of the battery disconnect has nothing to do with the tongue jack.

For everything else not working on battery I'd check is the self-resetting circuit breaker (CB) that should be just behind the battery and front cross member of the frame. (Gotta crawl underneath and look up.) Your camper may be wired as shown below (or may be different--take a picture and post it if unsure). If that CB is good there may be an issue with the battery disconnect switch.

To check the CB, where the battery lead connects to the CB to ground there should be the 13.2v (same as checking at the battery). Now measure the other side of the CB to ground and it should also be 13.2v. If not, there's an issue with the breaker. (Note: the "Bargman" in the diagram is the line from the 7-pin connector that gets a trickle charge from your truck.)





Why does the trailer work when plugged into shore power? The trailer's converter is providing 12vDC to the camper's circuits. That means everything from the Power Distribution Center out to the rest of the camper is probably good. If that CB is good, the tongue jack will still not work if the 30A fuse is blown.

Which leads me to my final thought--why would the 30A fuse blow? Be cautious as there may be an issue with that tongue jack that not only took out the fuse by CB.

Please be careful working around live voltage--if you're not 100% sure how to check these things best to call in the cavalry (a trained technician).

Good luck and please report back what is found.

Howard

[howson]

Sorry, StephenO --was typing as you were posting.

[StephenO]

Sorry, StephenO --was typing as you were posting.

Yeah, but your post has way more details . Mine is just the Coles notes

[Yoda]

You Battery switch should be in the ON Position, not off. On is when the key cant be removed. Everything will work then. It also needs to be in the ON position for the battery to charge off of the Converter.
Hope this helps
Keith

Edit For storage leave the switch on and pull the negative battery cable at the battery. This will solve any parasitic draws from killing the battery during storage.

[Follow the Dots]

Thanks all for the responses and suggestions. The batter disconnect switch wording is confusing, expected that if the disconnect switch was ON, that would cut the power to everything. Have switched it back to OFF and will have my husband check it again after a day or two of charging.

[howson]

Thanks all for the responses and suggestions. The batter disconnect switch wording is confusing, expected that if the disconnect switch was ON, that would cut the power to everything. Have switched it back to OFF and will have my husband check it again after a day or two of charging.

If the key will come out, the battery is disconnected. If the key will NOT come out, it will pass power.

[howson]

Follow the Dots -- the battery disconnect does not explain the power tongue jack unless your trailer is wired differently than what is expected.

[ncitro]

Follow the Dots -- the battery disconnect does not explain the power tongue jack unless your trailer is wired differently than what is expected.

Just to rule out the charge level of the battery, I would throw a battery charger on the battery and see if your tongue jack works.

[BriggTrim]

Hi... Regularly in the event that you have 12 volts on the wires coming from the batteries, the trailer should work from the batteries on the grounds that both the converter and batteries are associated with the heaps constantly.

Yet, a few converters utilized around that time that had an inner hand-off that exchanged the 12 volt burdens to the converter when you were connected to shore power, then, at that point moved them straightforwardly to the battery when you weren't. One sign you have the transfer is in the event that you hear a "tick" from the heap place when you plug into shore power.

One converter that utilized the transfer was the Magnetek 6300 and lower series. On the off chance that you have one, you'll need to eliminate the lower front board and check whether you can clean the huge hand-off situated behind it. It's an open edge plan and now and then garbage gets trapped in the contacts and holds them back from making a decent association.

Disengage the battery links and ensure you're turned off from shore power before you start so there's no live voltage inside the force place.