Electrical Issues/‘21 2910BH

[Obrracing]

I was able to put all 7 on their own bus…see pic. Still not working. Should this be done on the other side by the fuses? Many of those are doubled up too. I also looked at the box behind the panel and nothing obviously wrong /loose there. There are two fuses on it that are pain in the arse to touch, let alone pull out and check (so I was not able to try to pull for fear and f not getting them back in). The copper ground connected to it looked tight. I unplugged it from the panel and replugged it back in. Cannot think of much else other than putting the second pic stuff on their own bus, but have no idea what the colors mean or if they should align with a specific fuse…if that’s makes sense. Charlie

[gbkims]

Cannot think of much else...

You may need to check for loose connections behind the convenience panel.
https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...0876#post30876

[Obrracing]

It looks ok to me, nothing loose, lot less complicated than yours. :-). Thanks for the help… v/r Charlie

[howson]

I was able to put all 7 on their own bus…see pic. Still not working. Should this be done on the other side by the fuses? Many of those are doubled up too. I also looked at the box behind the panel and nothing obviously wrong /loose there. There are two fuses on it that are pain in the arse to touch, let alone pull out and check (so I was not able to try to pull for fear and f not getting them back in). The copper ground connected to it looked tight. I unplugged it from the panel and replugged it back in. Cannot think of much else other than putting the second pic stuff on their own bus, but have no idea what the colors mean or if they should align with a specific fuse…if that’s makes sense. Charlie

Might want to wait for the DMM at this point...

[gbkims]

It looks ok to me, nothing loose, lot less complicated than yours. :-). Thanks for the help… v/r Charlie

Yep, the Compass Connect with Unity module: https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...7044#post37044

[Obrracing]

Might want to wait for the DMM at this point...

I go TDY for a week tomorrow and the DMM should be at my house by then. Any thoughts on the other wires next tot the fuses being doubled up? Thanks for all the help so far. I have yet to shock myself…. V/r Charlie

[Obrracing]

I think I will check the light/fan switch connections in the bathroom when I get home from TDY too, just to see if something obviously loose there. I hear they all, bathroom/bedroom/awning lights may all be linked together…so I will start there and then the bedroom. V/r Charlie

[howson]

Obrracing -- due to personal issues my time on the forum will be limited soon. Please don't take a lack of a timely response (from me) as a lack of interest. Besides, there are many forum members with more experience than yours truly on these types of issues and they'll be more than willing to chime in.

Please keep this thread updated--I will circle back and read about what's going on.

Howard

[Obrracing]

My wife told me the battery level is now at 12.6 vs 13.6/7 after I put all the 12v on their own negative bus. Trailer is hooked up to house. Hopefully, I didn’t screw something up. I will have to check the converter and specific fuses/panel when I get back from my TDY.

thanks for the advice… Charlie

[Obrracing]

Obrracing
As shown in the diagram from the Power Distribution Center, or PDC, in my 315RLTS (which I assume is similar to the PDC in your trailer) the top row should be a constant +12vDC and the bottom row also +12vDC if the fuse is installed and good. . The 12vDC returns all tie together on a bus bar.

I suggest the first thing to do is verify the board in the PDC is good.

BEFORE PROCEEDING: If you're not familiar with measuring live voltages with a multimeter...might be time to bail and call for a qualified technician or knowledgeable friend. (o offense--you're new--so not sure if you have the tools, technical, or physical ability to do these checks. Bottom line: be careful working with electricity!

All of the top row (red arrow) should have +12vDC as long as there is a good battery in the trailer, the battery disconnect is on (key can't be removed) or shore power is applied and the converter is operational. That statement assumes you know those components...so ask if you're unsure of what was just written.

With the fuses still out, measure for 12vDC across the top row connection for fuse 4 (red lead from multimeter) to the ground bus bar (black lead on multimeter to spot indicated by yellow arrow). Then do the same for fuse 5 and 9. All three should measure around 12vDC.

Now install the three fuses back into their respective positions. Measure for voltage again using the junction below the fuse (where the wire is secured). Again, each measurement should measure about 12vDC. If one or none of them measure 12vDC, double-check the fuses are good by pulling them (and checking using the ohm setting on the multimeter) or just swap with a known good fuse on the board.

Report back your findings and we can continue on to the next step if everything checks good.

If the checks find an issue, it should be easy to move the fuse position--more on that once we know the results of the tests above.

Again--if there is any doubt about how to actually do this please consult a professional.

Howard



Howard

Howard et al.,

I did the checks and everything measured about 13.10v, both the fuse location and the connection just below the fuse. This was on battery power. The lights are currently working, still no red light when I pull the fuses for 4/bathroom, 5/refer-furnace, and 9/awning lights.

Ready for the next step. Oh, battery was dipping it appears because I had the converter breaker off. Turned it on last night and I heard it kick on and charge on the battery was showing 13.7.

Ready for the next step in your all’s opinion.

UPDATE: Converter is working, as I turned the breaker on and heard it kick on to charge the battery. A little later, the lights and fan in the bathroom would not work. And subsequently, the master bedroom and awning lights (awning works in/out). I then turned the fan on/ in the kitchen about 5/6 times and magically, everything in the bathroom, bedroom, and awning lights started working. No change in fuse panel lights, etc.

V/r Charlie

[Country Campers]

I do not remember what step you are on with this trouble shooting but I am wondering when you say " the converter kicked on and charge the battery to 13.7" was the battery voltage checked with the battery cables removed from the battery? If the battery voltage was checked with the cables attached you may have got a bad reading while still attached to the converter. I would remove the cables , let the battery rest for 15 mins and then check battery voltage.
The converter will "help" the battery supply voltage to the coach but not "fully" supply voltage to the coach, the battery voltage and status is very important to the 12 v dc system. When you hear the converter kick on it means that there is a significant draw on the converter , ie, the battery is very low in charge status , there are lots of items putting a heavy draw on the battery and converter.

Brian

[Obrracing]

I do not remember what step you are on with this trouble shooting but I am wondering when you say " the converter kicked on and charge the battery to 13.7" was the battery voltage checked with the battery cables removed from the battery? If the battery voltage was checked with the cables attached you may have got a bad reading while still attached to the converter. I would remove the cables , let the battery rest for 15 mins and then check battery voltage.
The converter will "help" the battery supply voltage to the coach but not "fully" supply voltage to the coach, the battery voltage and status is very important to the 12 v dc system. When you hear the converter kick on it means that there is a significant draw on the converter , ie, the battery is very low in charge status , there are lots of items putting a heavy draw on the battery and converter.

Brian

Brian, I did not check the voltage at the battery. It is currently hooked up. I had the converter breaker off when I was checking everything before I left TDY. I came back and the battery was reading at about 11.9 V. I turned the converter breaker back on and it immediately turned on and the voltage read 13.7, so I assumed it was charging the battery. I can disconnect the cables from the battery and check what volts the battery is showing, what would be a safe range after the 15 mins? I was thinking maybe it was the battery. I typically keep it on a maintainer in the garage when it is not on the rig, but maybe it is still failing. It was supposed to be a new battery when I bought the rig in December 2020. It is strange that I can get everything to turn on after turning on the kitchen fan 5 to 7 times. That was weird. I will check the voltage of the battery this afternoon and let you all know.

thanks again…

Charlie

[Obrracing]

Brian et al.,

after about 20 mins disconnected, battery is at 13.28v. Actually, all lights are working in the trailer without the battery being hooked up, only plugged into the house…

[Country Campers]

With 11.9 v the battery was well below the recommended 12.2 v , 50%. If this has happened a few times the battery may have been damaged, you could have an auto parts store do a check on the battery to see what shape it is in.

I do not think that there is any connection between the fan switch being pushed 5 or 7 times and then everything else works. This might just be a coincidence. I think there may a simple solution to this and we may just be looking for trouble that is not there, what the solution is I am not sure.

Brian

[Obrracing]

Thanks for the thoughts, Brian. I will take the battery by an auto parts store to check. I pulled it out of the trailer for now. Ihad to park the trailer in the lot as my HOA was angry with me. So I will check the battery again tonight with my meter and then maybe run it by an auto parts store for a test. I will let y’all know the results.

v/r Charlie