I was able to put all 7 on their own bus…see pic. Still not working. Should this be done on the other side by the fuses? Many of those are doubled up too. I also looked at the box behind the panel and nothing obviously wrong /loose there. There are two fuses on it that are pain in the arse to touch, let alone pull out and check (so I was not able to try to pull for fear and f not getting them back in). The copper ground connected to it looked tight. I unplugged it from the panel and replugged it back in. Cannot think of much else other than putting the second pic stuff on their own bus, but have no idea what the colors mean or if they should align with a specific fuse…if that’s makes sense. Charlie
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Electrical Issues/‘21 2910BH
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Originally posted by Obrracing View PostCannot think of much else...
https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...0876#post30876
Gene and Kim
2015 Grand Design Reflection 317RST
2017 RAM 3500 CC, LB, 4x2, 6.7L CTD
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Originally posted by Obrracing View PostI was able to put all 7 on their own bus…see pic. Still not working. Should this be done on the other side by the fuses? Many of those are doubled up too. I also looked at the box behind the panel and nothing obviously wrong /loose there. There are two fuses on it that are pain in the arse to touch, let alone pull out and check (so I was not able to try to pull for fear and f not getting them back in). The copper ground connected to it looked tight. I unplugged it from the panel and replugged it back in. Cannot think of much else other than putting the second pic stuff on their own bus, but have no idea what the colors mean or if they should align with a specific fuse…if that’s makes sense. CharlieForum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.
Howard & Francine
2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus
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Originally posted by Obrracing View PostIt looks ok to me, nothing loose, lot less complicated than yours. :-). Thanks for the help… v/r CharlieGene and Kim
2015 Grand Design Reflection 317RST
2017 RAM 3500 CC, LB, 4x2, 6.7L CTD
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Originally posted by howson View Post
Might want to wait for the DMM at this point...
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I think I will check the light/fan switch connections in the bathroom when I get home from TDY too, just to see if something obviously loose there. I hear they all, bathroom/bedroom/awning lights may all be linked together…so I will start there and then the bedroom. V/r CharlieLast edited by Obrracing; 08-23-2021, 10:08 PM.
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Obrracing -- due to personal issues my time on the forum will be limited soon. Please don't take a lack of a timely response (from me) as a lack of interest. Besides, there are many forum members with more experience than yours truly on these types of issues and they'll be more than willing to chime in.
Please keep this thread updated--I will circle back and read about what's going on.
HowardForum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.
Howard & Francine
2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus
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My wife told me the battery level is now at 12.6 vs 13.6/7 after I put all the 12v on their own negative bus. Trailer is hooked up to house. Hopefully, I didn’t screw something up. I will have to check the converter and specific fuses/panel when I get back from my TDY.
thanks for the advice… CharlieLast edited by Obrracing; 08-24-2021, 09:45 PM.
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Originally posted by howson View PostObrracing
As shown in the diagram from the Power Distribution Center, or PDC, in my 315RLTS (which I assume is similar to the PDC in your trailer) the top row should be a constant +12vDC and the bottom row also +12vDC if the fuse is installed and good. . The 12vDC returns all tie together on a bus bar.
I suggest the first thing to do is verify the board in the PDC is good.
BEFORE PROCEEDING: If you're not familiar with measuring live voltages with a multimeter...might be time to bail and call for a qualified technician or knowledgeable friend. (o offense--you're new--so not sure if you have the tools, technical, or physical ability to do these checks. Bottom line: be careful working with electricity!
All of the top row (red arrow) should have +12vDC as long as there is a good battery in the trailer, the battery disconnect is on (key can't be removed) or shore power is applied and the converter is operational. That statement assumes you know those components...so ask if you're unsure of what was just written.
With the fuses still out, measure for 12vDC across the top row connection for fuse 4 (red lead from multimeter) to the ground bus bar (black lead on multimeter to spot indicated by yellow arrow). Then do the same for fuse 5 and 9. All three should measure around 12vDC.
Now install the three fuses back into their respective positions. Measure for voltage again using the junction below the fuse (where the wire is secured). Again, each measurement should measure about 12vDC. If one or none of them measure 12vDC, double-check the fuses are good by pulling them (and checking using the ohm setting on the multimeter) or just swap with a known good fuse on the board.
Report back your findings and we can continue on to the next step if everything checks good.
If the checks find an issue, it should be easy to move the fuse position--more on that once we know the results of the tests above.
Again--if there is any doubt about how to actually do this please consult a professional.
Howard
Howard
I did the checks and everything measured about 13.10v, both the fuse location and the connection just below the fuse. This was on battery power. The lights are currently working, still no red light when I pull the fuses for 4/bathroom, 5/refer-furnace, and 9/awning lights.
Ready for the next step. Oh, battery was dipping it appears because I had the converter breaker off. Turned it on last night and I heard it kick on and charge on the battery was showing 13.7.
Ready for the next step in your all’s opinion.
UPDATE: Converter is working, as I turned the breaker on and heard it kick on to charge the battery. A little later, the lights and fan in the bathroom would not work. And subsequently, the master bedroom and awning lights (awning works in/out). I then turned the fan on/ in the kitchen about 5/6 times and magically, everything in the bathroom, bedroom, and awning lights started working. No change in fuse panel lights, etc.
V/r CharlieLast edited by Obrracing; 08-28-2021, 09:02 PM.
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I do not remember what step you are on with this trouble shooting but I am wondering when you say " the converter kicked on and charge the battery to 13.7" was the battery voltage checked with the battery cables removed from the battery? If the battery voltage was checked with the cables attached you may have got a bad reading while still attached to the converter. I would remove the cables , let the battery rest for 15 mins and then check battery voltage.
The converter will "help" the battery supply voltage to the coach but not "fully" supply voltage to the coach, the battery voltage and status is very important to the 12 v dc system. When you hear the converter kick on it means that there is a significant draw on the converter , ie, the battery is very low in charge status , there are lots of items putting a heavy draw on the battery and converter.
BrianBrian & Michelle
2018 Reflection 29RS
2022 Chevy 3500HD
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Originally posted by Country Campers View PostI do not remember what step you are on with this trouble shooting but I am wondering when you say " the converter kicked on and charge the battery to 13.7" was the battery voltage checked with the battery cables removed from the battery? If the battery voltage was checked with the cables attached you may have got a bad reading while still attached to the converter. I would remove the cables , let the battery rest for 15 mins and then check battery voltage.
The converter will "help" the battery supply voltage to the coach but not "fully" supply voltage to the coach, the battery voltage and status is very important to the 12 v dc system. When you hear the converter kick on it means that there is a significant draw on the converter , ie, the battery is very low in charge status , there are lots of items putting a heavy draw on the battery and converter.
Brian
thanks again…
Charlie
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With 11.9 v the battery was well below the recommended 12.2 v , 50%. If this has happened a few times the battery may have been damaged, you could have an auto parts store do a check on the battery to see what shape it is in.
I do not think that there is any connection between the fan switch being pushed 5 or 7 times and then everything else works. This might just be a coincidence. I think there may a simple solution to this and we may just be looking for trouble that is not there, what the solution is I am not sure.
BrianBrian & Michelle
2018 Reflection 29RS
2022 Chevy 3500HD
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Thanks for the thoughts, Brian. I will take the battery by an auto parts store to check. I pulled it out of the trailer for now. Ihad to park the trailer in the lot as my HOA was angry with me. So I will check the battery again tonight with my meter and then maybe run it by an auto parts store for a test. I will let y’all know the results.
v/r CharlieLast edited by Obrracing; 08-28-2021, 09:04 PM.
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