DC - DC Charger Project

[Yoda]

I continued with a few more holes and Zip ties to finish crossing along the back of the engine bay.


Up fitter switch 1 is a 40A circuit and I used 14 AWG wire so I chose to add an inline fuse (10a) before connecting to the solenoid. Shown is the complete heat shrink but connector.


Final connection made to solenoid and the fuse is easy to get to.


To get to the solenoid I just looped the wire and zip tied it to the radiator expansion jug tubing that was handy.

Tomorrow the big cable goes in.

Keith

On edit.I just discovered I have the solenoid mounted wrong as the big top should be pointed Down. https://colehersee.com.au/product/sp...duty-solenoid/ It was a real pain to get in the first time. Anyone know why?

[Yoda]

Was a good day today. I got the up fitter switch wire to the solenoid

Step one - find and un-bundle the up fitter wires, WOW that was a lot of tape Ford used.

I pulled the fuse/relay box up and got access tot he wires I separated out the #1 switch wire (brown/green)


Its nice to find a label right there with the wiring codes. The black tape is just thee to hold the bundle up while I work.


I used a heat shrink butt splice and then covered that with marine heat shrink tube. Yellow wire is 14awg


I then used high temp loom to run it across to the solenoid on the drivers side.


I then drilled a few holes in the plastic lip and use zip ties to get to the middle, then switched sides.

[Hogdrv]

Let me know how it works out 👍

[Yoda]

No I haven’t had any problems loading yet, I have had full sheets of plywood and a large scaffolding in the bed but no problem. I did Velcro it to the bed, but it doesn’t stick very well with the spray in liner. I just wanted to make sure this worked the way it was supposed to and what I really wanted before I went to the point of no return (holes). So far no problem.
Jim

Thanks
I am going to borrow you location. Appreciate the help
Keith

[Hogdrv]

No I haven’t had any problems loading yet, I have had full sheets of plywood and a large scaffolding in the bed but no problem. I did Velcro it to the bed, but it doesn’t stick very well with the spray in liner. I just wanted to make sure this worked the way it was supposed to and what I really wanted before I went to the point of no return (holes). So far no problem.
Jim

[Yoda]

Cutting holes in new trucks nooooooo, not for me!

Thanks Jim
Any issues with it catching while loading and unloading, like Neil mentions?

Keith

[ncitro]

It’s hard to cut the hole, but I wanted mine out of the way when I load and unload the truck so those holes worried me.

[Hogdrv]

Cutting holes in new trucks nooooooo, not for me!

[Yoda]

Does this answer the question I used the existing unused barcket Ford had there. Almost and exact fit. I also tested the ground wire to make sure it was making contact with the truck frame.

Now to where do I bring the plug out in the bed.


Do I cut the hole and place my bulkhead fitting, or drill out a large hole just to bringthe cable through at this spot - OR?



Utilize one of Fords existing holes. The cable will fit through the top or bottom hole. Right now I am thinking the bottom hole and I can tie the plug off around the corner if needed. OR come out the top hole and just let it hang down above the bed. I can use the center hole to tie it off if needed.

Thoughts?

I took a break due to pending T-Storm but will probably run the up fitter wire next. I plan to use switch 1.

Keith

[Yoda]

Well I have procrastinated too long and made a decision (somewhat) on my next part of the install.

First I amt back and fixed the D+ connection to the clearance light as the WAGO was not water proof.


Old - This was the WAGO under the tape New, I used a heat shrink splice and covered with heat shrink tubing.




Now on the decision on how I was going to wire the 12V bed plug.........................................to use a solenoid or not/////////////

Well

[Yoda]

Now . . . if you want to spend more money . . . . . . I use Delphi Weatherpack connectors where ever possible. These are easy to assemble and provide a completely weatherproof connection that can be “unplugged” if you need to. I used these extensively at work, but now buy the parts from https://www.elecdirect.com/crimp-wir...pack-terminals I can suggest what would make a good “kit” to have . . . if anyone is interested.

Rob

Good grief - I actually have some of those somewhere - but where is the question. I used them years ago on my tractor third function project and forgot I have them. I also have some heat shrink butt connectors, but they may be too big. Napa has them in town and will be open tomorrow. Too hot now to work anyway. I need to sort through everything I have and get it organized in a Husky compartment box I got. Same for my screw and bolt selection.

Thanks for the help
Keith

[Cate&Rob]

Now . . . if you want to spend more money . . . . . . I use Delphi Weatherpack connectors where ever possible. These are easy to assemble and provide a completely weatherproof connection that can be “unplugged” if you need to. I used these extensively at work, but now buy the parts from https://www.elecdirect.com/crimp-wir...pack-terminals I can suggest what would make a good “kit” to have . . . if anyone is interested.

Rob

[ncitro]

I agree with Howard, you need a water tight splice

[howson]

Thanks everyone. I am going to think on this for a bit. Howard howson and Neil ncitro would Wago connectors work for the up fitter wiring. or do I need to do bulb crimps. Just wondering as the Wago's could get wet in the engine bay and I can seal the bulb crimps. I just concerned on how short the wiring is.

I need to find some heat shrink tubing for my #2 wire terminals. I think HD has some. I also need a couple of totes for tool storage. I am moving all my tools and Jacks to the truck.

As for the DC_DC project I got the temp probe installed and everything buttoned up. Now to clean up the mess before I start on another one

Keith

I used butt connectors for the wiring that has heat-activated shrink sealant, further protected by heat shrink over the connection (the heat shrink came lined with glue so if seals again) and all the subsequent wiring is inside of wire loom to protect against chafing. So...no, I would not recommend Wago connectors for the Upfitter wiring. (Rough environment under the hood of our vehicles.)

[Yoda]

Thanks everyone. I am going to think on this for a bit. Howard howson and Neil ncitro would Wago connectors work for the up fitter wiring. or do I need to do bulb crimps. Just wondering as the Wago's could get wet in the engine bay and I can seal the bulb crimps. I just concerned on how short the wiring is.

I need to find some heat shrink tubing for my #2 wire terminals. I think HD has some. I also need a couple of totes for tool storage. I am moving all my tools and Jacks to the truck.

As for the DC_DC project I got the temp probe installed and everything buttoned up. Now to clean up the mess before I start on another one

Keith