DC - DC Charger Project

[AlexPeterson]

SNIP

Keith

On edit.I just discovered I have the solenoid mounted wrong as the big top should be pointed Down. https://colehersee.com.au/product/sp...duty-solenoid/ It was a real pain to get in the first time. Anyone know why?

I don't think it will matter. I first heard of solenoid orientation when wiring an aircraft I built some years ago. Since aircraft can pull several g's when performing aerobatics, one does not want the solenoid to disengage at high g loads, hence the orientation. If you hit a bump hard enough to (momentarily) disengage the solenoid which is mounted upside down, you might have bigger problems to worry about!

[Yoda]

Use the M6. If you have a couple M6 flat washers, use those on either side.

Thanks Ted. The issue is I need to space the fuse block up (double nutted on the M6 stud) leaving an exposed shank portion. That M6 stud can't take the 80 plus amps if running full charge. Normally the base would have contact with the battery lug giving a greater surface area.

Look at the first picture in post 247.Imagine the fuse block mounted high on that stud to clear the battery terminal post section I am holding with my fingers. There will be an exposed section of the stud the entire DC-DC current will be running through. Maybe I have enough M6 flat washers to stack up, but not sure how strong that will be and I would still need to shim the fuse holder hole.. I have several spare M 10 hex bolts, I am going to try shaving the head on one first for clearance. If that works I may just tap a bigger hole fro the M10 and be done with it

Ill sleep on it - Thanks again for your thoughts
Keith

[TedS]

Use the M6. If you have a couple M6 flat washers, use those on either side.

[Yoda]

Bolt installed, but lacking capture nut. It was at this point I went and got my Blue Sea MRBF Terminal Fuse Block wit the 100A fuse.

UGG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

As you can see there is a slight problem. The small bolt is the M6. Beside is is the needed M10. There is space on the terminal for this, but I will need to shave the hex head thinner for clearance from the battery top. Whats driving the issue is the angle of the battery terminal when attached an getting the fuse holder to fit in the space, especially clearing the radiator bottle.

Thoughts on this dilemma?

Keith

[Yoda]

Well I got the stud instaled and went to put the fuse block on. DOH! it had a 3/8" / M10 hole for the connection to the battery. So I figured out I could shim the hole down (scrap SS tubing ) but then realized for it to fit at the post it wold need to be elevated slightly off the terminal base. This means the M6 stud would be carrying the full amperage. And according to this link https://www.erichgeiss.de/en/start/t...arrying-bolts/ and using the " Current-carrying capacity for lead-through terminals" the M6 is rated for only 63 amps well below what this connection could see. So I need to think on this. I have some M10 bolts and nuts in SS from another project


Anyway this is how I installed the stud.



IN order to drill the terminal I left it connected to the post. Way too complicated to remove. I put a shim under it to protect the battery



I then drilled the hole (small pilot hole first) and started the tap. I ran the vacuum through both processes to catch any shavings. To complete the full tap I removed the terminal from the battery.

I then installed the M6 bolt through the bottomed and tightened.

[ncitro]

Yoda I agree with Rob, I’ve seen and used solenoids like that in many projects over the year’s and in just about every orientation. I’d leave it but keep it in mind if you ever have to troubleshoot.

I fused my coil at 7A, mainly because it was the smallest fuse I had laying around. The coil should draw less than an amp.

As far as what to see, hook everything up, look at the current. Then when you turn on the upfitter you should see the current go up by 30A.

[Hogdrv]

My bad, I did not put one on that wire, I did use the no.1 upfitter switch like you though.
Jim

[Yoda]

Yoda

Keith, I’m running a 20amp dc-dc charger and all my fuses are just 30 amps. I did what you are talking about, running down the road with the dc-dc charger on and off looking at my phone here are the numbers. I also had my solar going,didn’t think to turn it off (300 watts factory install) Dc charger off around 18-20 amps, dc charger on 34-38 amps batteries were about 80% two battle born.

Jim

Jim I was talking about the up fitter wire fuse to activate the solenoid. Sorry if I was confusing
Thanks Keith

[Hogdrv]

Yoda

Keith, I’m running a 20amp dc-dc charger and all my fuses are just 30 amps. I did what you are talking about, running down the road with the dc-dc charger on and off looking at my phone here are the numbers. I also had my solar going,didn’t think to turn it off (300 watts factory install) Dc charger off around 18-20 amps, dc charger on 34-38 amps batteries were about 80% two battle born.

Jim

[Yoda]

Hi saw your note about orientation . . . and looked it up to confirm . . . not that I don't trust you LOL! I have never seen that restriction before and I have seen lots of these solenoids in various orientations and applications. I would not worry about it. If your solenoid stops working (highly unlikely) you will have something to check .

I would not cover the relay with rubber sealant spray . . . there may be some heat dissipation from the coil inside that is contingent on the metal can.

Rob

Hogdrv

Thanks Rob and Jim. I am going to leave everything as is and proceed with the 2awg wiring. Rob - is good you don't trust me .. Thanks for confirming what I found. Jim - if I may ask what size fuse are you running. If I hear back from the land down under I put it here.

Testing question - I was going to hook up to the truck (7pin and DC-DC and have my cell phone monitoring the BM712. First turn lights on then engage the up fitter switch. What should I see change on the BMV display on the phone? I have the DC-DC set to 30A right now?

Keith

[Hogdrv]

Yoda
Keith, mine has has been working fine no problems.
Jim

[Cate&Rob]

I saw your note about orientation . . . and looked it up to confirm . . . not that I don't trust you LOL! I have never seen that restriction before and I have seen lots of these solenoids in various orientations and applications. I would not worry about it. If your solenoid stops working (highly unlikely) you will have something to check .

I would not cover the relay with rubber sealant spray . . . there may be some heat dissipation from the coil inside that is contingent on the metal can.

Rob

[Yoda]

ncitro howson Cate&Rob
I don't know if you saw my edit in post #235 on the Solenoid orientation or not. Do your great kinds have any thoughts?. Is there anyone else I should tag?

Cole Hersee does not have a US contact, except I found out Little Fuse is the distributor. I did find an email for Hersee in Australia (home base) and sent off an inquiry, but with the time difference I don't expect a reply for a while.. I then tried calling Little fuse - talk about a mess. I kept being told I had the wrong department and was finally told to call Mexico for help. The solenoids are made in Mexico. Of course there I was directed immediately to voice mail. We will see if I get any response back.

After looking at the drawing for the solenoid it makes no sense that the stamped end cap should be down. This leaves the cap crimp ring exposed to collecting water. There is an internal spring that brakes the contact when power is removed. Is this spring undersized and could it possible make contact with vehicle motion if installed with the cap up? I am pretty sure the contact are at the large cap end so with the contact piston being pointed down gravity would have a larger effect on the plunger. Does the coil need that extra gravity to fully work? Over the years I have installed a lot of solenoids and never see a not on orientation. Howard probably got it right using s solid state one.

I now wish I had never good looking for the coil amp rating to choose the proper fuse size. Still have not found that information either on the Hersee site, Little Fuse site or elsewhere. I currently have a 10A fuse in pace, but have others available.

Hogdrv has his mounted cap up and I assume it is working that way- is that a correct assumption Jim?

If I do need to flip it I am thinking of getting some of that rubber sealant spray (flex seal) and seal it up. - they do come PVC coated (IP67 rating) as an option, but I could not find one.

Thanks for any help
Keith

[TedS]

Gravity. To open the contacts. Not sprung to open?

On edit: this reason doesn't make sense.

[Hogdrv]

Keep water out?? Mine is also wrong didn’t know till NOW oh well. Seems under hood the water will becoming from the bottom. Not sure if I’ll change it or not, waiting for someone smarter than me to give me direction.
Jim