DC - DC Charger Project

[Popga]

Yoda

Gee, Thanks a lot....

Mines been bulletproofed...Twice. Heads are new, hp oil pump is new, turbo is new, EGR? no comment, coolant filter, 325A USCustom alternator with custom wiring harness from ficmrepair.com, new ficm (x2)...Tranny is holding on, but when it goes, its still cheaper than a new truck, as I can see from your beautiful rig! We've sat in and test droved every new truck out there, but we LOVE the X!

But, thanks for the love...If only had all my fix and upgrade money back to put a down payment on a new rig....wait, I'd still owe $75k on the new one


Erik

[Yoda]

Great suggestion. Will definitely add a solenoid and figure out an ignition circuit to power it up. Any older Ford users without upfitter switch that can suggest how to best run a wire so the solenoid turns on with ignition?

howson

Also, Howard, or any listeners, your upfitter switch allows you to turn off the solenoid to the DC/DC when the the truck is running?

Erik

Eric
If you pull up the 2022 super duty manual you will find some of the up fitter switches are always hot, and others only ignation on.

BTW I see you have a 2005 6L diesel. You probably if possible need to get rid of it. I had mine cost me over 6K to get running again, then to have the trans start going out. It was an 04 with just over 100K. First EGR cooler failed and contaminated the block and radiator resulting in a blown head gasket. The the high pressure oil pump failed 3 k later. Last I had the main wiring harness that crosses under the egr go bad (short)- this part and numerous other items are not available anymore. Just trying to help.

Keith

[howson]

...your upfitter switch allows you to turn off the solenoid to the DC/DC when the the truck is running?

Erik--yes. The upfitter switch controls the Solid State Relay used in my setup.

[Popga]

Yes I think so - if the key is on to accessory it should work but have not tested it. ( If I read the Ford up-fitter switch directions correctly) You can leave the solenoid out if you want constant power to the plug - it is fused after all. The you would only need a stitch at the RV to turn the DC-DC on. However doing this means yo must remember to kill it if not running as it will drain your truck battery quickly if charging the RV.
Keith

Great suggestion. Will definitely add a solenoid and figure out an ignition circuit to power it up. Any older Ford users without upfitter switch that can suggest how to best run a wire so the solenoid turns on with ignition?

howson

Also, Howard, or any listeners, your upfitter switch allows you to turn off the solenoid to the DC/DC when the the truck is running?

Erik

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Thanks to howson I had previously bought this crimper kit. Does a great job making crimps. Goes down to 10 awg Price has go up, but you can get it here https://temcoindustrial.com/th0005-v...h-32-die-sets/

Wow! Good to 600MCM! I've crimped larger wire (750MCM) but only once in a 33 year electrical career. That kit outta have you covered. Even if you fill the truck box with BattleBorns...lol

A lot of good work in this thread Keith!

[Yoda]

A fabulous build! Thank you for all your thoughtful detail. I am about to start my journey down this road....if only I could figure out what an unfitter switch is. My old Excursion has has no such thing.
Know how I can get around it to fire up up the solenoid?
Does the upfitter switch allow you to power up the Anderson plug when the truck is not turned on?

Erik

Yes I think so - if the key is on to accessory it should work but have not tested it. ( If I read the Ford up-fitter switch directions correctly) You can leave the solenoid out if you want constant power to the plug - it is fused after all. The you would only need a stitch at the RV to turn the DC-DC on. However doing this means yo must remember to kill it if not running as it will drain your truck battery quickly if charging the RV.
Keith

[Popga]

A fabulous build! Thank you for all your thoughtful detail. I am about to start my journey down this road....if only I could figure out what an unfitter switch is. My old Excursion has has no such thing.
Know how I can get around it to fire up up the solenoid?
Does the upfitter switch allow you to power up the Anderson plug when the truck is not turned on?

Erik

[Hogdrv]

Gutsiest move I ever saw, Man!

[Yoda]

OMG Yoda drilled a hole in his new truck!!!

After thinking about it and the remembering I am going to have a storage rack to hold my generators and spar fuel cans right in front of that lower connection I decided to go ahead and trust the force. I did pull the Ford connection box to check behind and use that large hole to get the cable up to where it needed to be.

I used a spare grommet I had and this time I remembered to get the boot on the wires before doing the Anderson connector pins. I also check the +- orientation. In addition I double checked the pin orientation before crimping.

All done. When not in use I can tie it to the box link tie down for now. Ill test later - just need to connect the positive power cable to the fuse.I think this location will work well and the hole is the exact size (width) and location I need for the bulkhead fitting cutout later

Thanks for all the help folks

Keith


Update It works.. Well once I remembered to turn on the circuit breaker for the DC-DC at the trailer. My batterys are at 100% but using my cell phone and the Victron Connect app I was able to see an immediate 28A jump then watched it trail off to about 8 amps I did check that the solenoid worked first, then hooked up. All good

[Yoda]

Cross over from the cab to the bed, then up and over the fender well.


Coming out of the rear of the bed fender well and then up into the bed at the very rear

And finally into the bed. Tomorrow the connector goes on and then the test I guessed just right on the length for once. I thought I was going to be short.

If anyone spots anything, please let me know.

Keith

[Yoda]

So follow along how I ran the cabled to the back.

Starting with the overall cables run at the battery. Thepositive to solenoid is not hooked up yet. In the second picture at the far left the cables dive down the inner fender tho the lower frame rail.


Coming out the lower fender I secured it to the body mount and existing Ford cable holder. I thne folowed the Ford cable down the frame zip tying to the top of the cable bundle as I went.

Just follow the Ford loom.

[Yoda]

Long day but I finally have the cables run to the bed from the battery. All cables have a flexible loom over them.



I started by making up the cable ends. Thanks to howson I had previously bought this crimper kit. Does a great job making crimps. Goes down to 10 awg Price has go up, but you can get it here https://temcoindustrial.com/th0005-v...h-32-die-sets/


First up was the battery side of the solenoid, then the bed feed side. It was tight fit getting the 1/2" combo wrench in there, but everything cam together and is tight and covered.


Then I was able to get full lug contact on the negative battery posts. Again if the battery needs to be removed full access is there.

[Hogdrv]

Keith,
nice job

[Yoda]

This is the finished battery terminal with locking nut and re attached to the battery post. The shaved bolt head works to give good clamping area on the post. The top of the locking nut is very close to being flush with the top of the terminal.


It took 2 ss washers to shim the base of the fuse holder up to clear. I then trimmed the cover to fit. In this position it is still possible to remove the battery terminal if needed and not need to undo this connection.

I then installed the 100A fuse so I could see the indicator section. The connection here will have its own boot, so everything will be covered. On edit - the black pipe above the fuse is plastic and is actually well clear of the connection.

Well now on to making up the cables and threading them back to the bed.

I feel good about this solution 0 no compromise. I just need to make sure the negative terminal connection has full lug contact and not just the 6MM stud taking the amperage. Should not be a problem.

Thoughts?

Keith

[Yoda]

Problem solved


First step was to see if I could trim the hex head 10MM SS bolt. Started with a hacksaw to get the alignment, and finished with my saw-zall. A bit of touch up with the grinder and I was good to go.


Finished bolt


I then drilled and taped for the 10MM bolt, installed and check the fit on the battery post. The back pulled tight when the locking nut was added.