Winterizing Our Rigs

[Jlawles2]

Jim, Understand completely. I actually ordered both the 3/4 and 1/2 form HD and had them delivered to the house as they do not stock them at the local store. Amazon is one of man's best friends when it comes to needing parts.

[Guest]

Jim,

I went with the https://www.homedepot.com/p/SHARKBIT...16A2/312445563 as they were readily available and easy to connect.

Joseph,

Those look good. HD is 25 miles from the area where we live so Amazon sends stuff to me regularly.

Here is what I purchased.

https://www.amazon.com/Brass-Valve-W...A3TAFKYWOEOVSN

Jim

[Country Campers]

Interesting. When winterizing I keep all the tank drains open and don't really care about the remaining water freezing. I get some AF in the tanks from winterizing the traps, but, I can't see the problem with any water left in the tanks freezing? A couple litres of water to freeze in a 160 litre tank? No harm in getting lots of AF in there but, not sure anything is being accomplished.

One issue I can see if water is left in a holding tank is that the water will be up against the valve. If water would seep into the valve sliding part it may freeze and break or damage the slide. Before I had indoor storage I used to leave all the holding tank valves open after the last trip in hopes that the tanks and valves would dry out and I would not have any icing issues. I did not have any issues so whether it worked or not is debatable.

Brian

[Jlawles2]

Joseph,

I could have gone this route too where its a good solution. Maybe I like redundancy too much but I felt the overseas valves needed a backup with the caps since I will not have spares. Now the question...are the valves lead free? I'll write them through Amazon.

A fast confirmation:

• Made with Lead Free DZR Forged Brass

Jim

Jim,

I went with the https://www.homedepot.com/p/SHARKBIT...16A2/312445563 as they were readily available and easy to connect.

[Guest]

Guest Jim, I used the sharkbite style ball valves on my low point drains and added https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to the ends to keep the critters out (because where I come from mud dobbers like to use the pipes for nest).

Joseph,

I could have gone this route too where its a good solution. Maybe I like redundancy too much but I felt the overseas valves needed a backup with the caps since I will not have spares. Now the question...are the valves lead free? I'll write them through Amazon.

A fast confirmation:

• Made with Lead Free DZR Forged Brass

Jim

[Jlawles2]

Guest Jim, I used the sharkbite style ball valves on my low point drains and added https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to the ends to keep the critters out (because where I come from mud dobbers like to use the pipes for nest).

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Catch this with a container so that it does not dilute the antifreeze going into the drain traps and tanks. A “completely drained” grey or black tank will still have about 1/2” of water in the bottom. The more antifreeze you can put into these tanks to mix with this water, the better.

Interesting. When winterizing I keep all the tank drains open and don't really care about the remaining water freezing. I get some AF in the tanks from winterizing the traps, but, I can't see the problem with any water left in the tanks freezing? A couple litres of water to freeze in a 160 litre tank? No harm in getting lots of AF in there but, not sure anything is being accomplished.

[Guest]

I have the 1/2" PEX ball valves here so I will cut the low point cap fittings off and will use a PEX tool to install the valves. Then for additional insurance a 2 inch PEX line off each valve with a sharkbite cap. The low point drain caps are beginning to fail to seal so its time to eliminate them. This will make future winterizations dry and easy.

Dan, I use air on the black tank flush which would push out any water.

Jim

[Canyonlight]

Jim, don't forget the outside shower. Also some folks recommend using a hand pump to push some antifreeze into the black tank flush. I do not do this (tested once just to learn) and have had no repercussions from not doing every year. Depending on GDRV model and year along with water panel/system build this may or may not be part of the procedure. Our owners manual does not cover this.

I open all hot and cold faucets (including outside shower with head hanging down to the ground) pull the water heater plug and then remove the low point drains. I then go in and push the toilet flush to possibly release and water in that line out the low points as well. Whether all this works or not, I rarely get any water out of the faucets and toilet other than a bit from the kitchen. May be to the routing of the lines dipping down just laying on top of the coroplast to the center island.

After this I close all faucets, reinstall low point drain caps (yes, we vintage owners have caps to screw on and unscrew off) Follow winterizing instructions for water panel type and run antifreeze in. i just did mine yesterday and used about 1 1/2 gallons (with plenty in the traps) as usual.

Actually I did use more.......it helps to reinstall low point drain caps first !

I just love the thought of you having to winterize lol......or maybe a fellow GDRV owner is already lined up for the task and then an IPA treat when done !

Dan

[TedS]

I just winterized. About 1 and a quarter gallons of antifreeze. Opened low point drains, ran pump dry, drained water heater, set valves to winterize, blew out remaining water with air compressor, sucked in antifreeze 'til faucets and toilet blew out pink mist, poured some antifreeze into traps. My lines are probably not 100% full, but the antifreeze settles into any remaining water pockets and filled the pump.

Just for reference, 100 feet of 1/2 tubing holds about 1 gallon of water.

[Cate&Rob]

Even if you use air first (following owners manual procedure but unnecessary in my opinion) there will still be water coming out of each faucet before the antifreeze. Catch this with a container so that it does not dilute the antifreeze going into the drain traps and tanks. A “completely drained” grey or black tank will still have about 1/2” of water in the bottom. The more antifreeze you can put into these tanks to mix with this water, the better. If you used air first, you may have to position the jug of antifreeze higher than the pump to re-prime it. This will not be necessary if you skip the air step. Of course, there will be more water to catch before the antifreeze comes through, if you skip the air step.

Rob

[Guest]

I pour two gallons in the fresh water tank where the pump pickup and drain are a bit higher than the bottom of the tank in my rig. Two more are used to flush the fixtures through the winterization line in the Imagine after bypassing and draining the hot water tank. Cheap insurance IMO.

Jim

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Wow. That seems like a lot. The one time I did the 303 with AF it took a gallon and a half. And I poured the rest down the traps.

[Guest]

Same here. 4 gallons of -50F after draining.

Jim

[Country Campers]

Well... This is rather embarrassing since I started this thread. But since I live in Southern Arizona, I've only winterized my RV once in the last 25 years. My RV is taking a trip back to the mother ship in December for some factory repairs. Therefore, I plan on winterizing with anti freeze. BUT... How much A.F. do I need to purchase to do all the lines? 1 gallon, 2 gallons, more?

Thanks,

Jim

I usually put about 3 or 4 gallons in a 5 gallon bucket, then I can easily go around and do all of the fixtures without changing jugs, some is good more is better and cheap insurance.

Brian