Winterizing Our Rigs

[TucsonJim]

Thanks much Keith. We have one more trip before it heads off into the frozen mid-West.

Jim

[AlexPeterson]

Isn't it just in gas stations?

And grocery stores... Oh, I did confirm MN is the only remaining state with this 3.2 nonsense.

[Jlawles2]

Scott'n'WendyYes, but you can never be too cautious. I'd rather err on the side of caution and not blow out a line on the camper.

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Minnesota STILL has 3.2, might be the only state to still have this dinosaur...

Isn't it just in gas stations?

[Scott'n'Wendy]

to attach the air compressor to the regulator then to the camper. Using the regulation helps ensure that the compressor does not over pressurize the water lines in the camper.

Doesn't your air comp have a regulator on it?

[Yoda]

For those interested, I use https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to attach the air compressor to the regulator then to the camper. Using the regulation helps ensure that the compressor does not over pressurize the water lines in the camper. Also having got valve is handy so you can bleed the pressure off the lines in the camper without fear of back flow due to line expansion or trapped air.

Thanks Joseph - that is a lot more compact than what I use.

I have one similar to this - https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Spr...s%2C201&sr=8-9

[Jlawles2]

For those interested, I use https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to attach the air compressor to the regulator then to the camper. Using the regulation helps ensure that the compressor does not over pressurize the water lines in the camper. Also having got valve is handy so you can bleed the pressure off the lines in the camper without fear of back flow due to line expansion or trapped air.

[Yoda]

TucsonJim
Thanks for the reminder - go my Reflection 220RK done today - took just 1.75 gallons of the pink stuff. However I almost forgot the toilet and outside spray connection.

First drain everything, HW Tank and open the low point drains. However be sure all faucets are open.

Step two is blow the system out with air (40 psi) I use the winterize settings, but also slightly crack the valve to the HW tank and blow air through the line (HW tank drain open) and also crack the valve to the fresh water tank to be sure that line is clear too. Don't forget the toilet - I did first time through

Step 3 is pump the pink stuff through the system. I invert the screen on the city intake, prefill the hose and insert it into the jug, crack the furthest faucet valve and use the outside pump switch to prime. (still on winterize settings). Once primed I turn off the outside pump switch and go inside to cycle the faucets. You would be surprised at the amount of clear water left in the lines after blowing them out. I always start furthest from the pump and work back. Again be sure to flush the outside shower lines and toilet.

Step 4 is I use air again and blow out the system - this helps in the spring not having the system full of pink stuff. Last is open the low point drains again. Then remember to drain the residual water and pink stuff from the tanks. Also be sure all of your p traps have the antifreeze in them, including the shower drain

This is my method - so far no broken fittings in the spring.

Hope this helps
Keith

[Guest]

The vacuum break drains in both directions . . . but the tank side may not be a downward slope all the way to the tank. On my Reflection, this line ducks under a crossmember on its way to the higher tank attachment. Folks get away with not winterizing this line because it is soft hose and can survive water freezing inside. I use a short hose between the outside shower connection and the black tank connection to flush antifreeze through this line.

Rob

Vacuum break!. Very creative in using the outside spray hose to do this.

Jim

[Guest]

Minnesota STILL has 3.2, might be the only state to still have this dinosaur...

Young folks are very creative in how to get around this. 2X

Jim

[Cate&Rob]

The black tank flush should drain down on both sides but the moderators have warned this may not always happen

The vacuum break drains in both directions . . . but the tank side may not be a downward slope all the way to the tank. On my Reflection, this line ducks under a crossmember on its way to the higher tank attachment. Folks get away with not winterizing this line because it is soft hose and can survive water freezing inside. I use a short hose between the outside shower connection and the black tank connection to flush antifreeze through this line.

Rob

[AlexPeterson]

Dan,

SNIP

Money for beer when we were young was critical too. LOL Remember 3.2 beer?

SNIP

Jim

Minnesota STILL has 3.2, might be the only state to still have this dinosaur...

[Guest]

Jim - I have not used air in any manner on this or our last camper. I did so with our prior 3 mini-homes. I think this was because everyone used air back in the day (many still today, of course) or maybe the RV antifreeze was not invented yet. Or maybe it was we were too cheap to spend spare change then on this.......we needed beer money lol !

Jim - hope you are doing well. We'll have to catch up in the coming weeks. Carol had her other knee replaced yesterday.....I am playing nurse (to a real 4 + decade nurse like your wife) as you know.

Dan

Dan,

The black tank flush should drain down on both sides but the moderators have warned this may not always happen so I began to blow out the line. You could use the pink stuff if its somehow forced to flow above the air gap (cannot remember the name of that valve right now) so the black tank side gets pickled. I'm tired from traveling to help my 90 year old parents today. I'm there each week to help them in whatever they may need. This keeps us from snowbirding but I do not mind where this is the priority right now in our lives. We are planning a trip to PA tomorrow for a few days to see the colors. So we still get out from time to time.

Money for beer when we were young was critical too. LOL Remember 3.2 beer?

The folks I know that has had knee replacements are like new people. Amazing what they can do these days. Tell Carol I wish her a speedy recovery.

Jim

[Canyonlight]

I have the 1/2" PEX ball valves here so I will cut the low point cap fittings off and will use a PEX tool to install the valves. Then for additional insurance a 2 inch PEX line off each valve with a sharkbite cap. The low point drain caps are beginning to fail to seal so its time to eliminate them. This will make future winterizations dry and easy.

Dan, I use air on the black tank flush which would push out any water.

Jim

Jim - I have not used air in any manner on this or our last camper. I did so with our prior 3 mini-homes. I think this was because everyone used air back in the day (many still today, of course) or maybe the RV antifreeze was not invented yet. Or maybe it was we were too cheap to spend spare change then on this.......we needed beer money lol !

Jim - hope you are doing well. We'll have to catch up in the coming weeks. Carol had her other knee replaced yesterday.....I am playing nurse (to a real 4 + decade nurse like your wife) as you know.

Dan

[Scott'n'Wendy]

One issue I can see if water is left in a holding tank is that the water will be up against the valve. If water would seep into the valve sliding part it may freeze and break or damage the slide.

I must admit when I first started going the air only route, this, along with the water pump was my main concern. But since '98 I have not had a broken valve or pump come springtime yet. My theory is the valves seals whatever is in the tank so if it was leaking by, I'd notice when dumping prior to winterizing. And if it's not leaking by....no worries.

I did have a black tank valve fail on me in the middle of camping season one year on our 21' Jayco 5th wheel. Ya 21'!
Was it 'compromised' earlier from freezing? Maybe...hard to call. That was a fun job to replace.