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  • Randy Zahn
    replied
    I have always used RV antifreeze and with my new to me 247BH I used it again. When I see pink in the lines then I know I can sleep better at night knowing that in the spring I will not have broken water lines. It gets real cold here in south eastern British Columbia and I store my RV in a unheated metal building which is colder than outside.

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  • Country Campers
    replied
    Originally posted by Cate&Rob View Post
    Another thought has occurred to me . . . this is often not a good thing . . . Has anyone tried vacuuming out the water system?

    What seems to happen when blowing out the lines with pressurized air is that as soon as the air can get past the water in a half filled horizontal pipe, it stops moving the water. This is OK if all lines and pipes remain about half full because there is room for freezing expansion. The problems occur when the remaining water gathers at low points and completely fills a section.

    Adapting a shop vac to connect to the low point drains might assist in removing more water . . . maybe ??

    Rob
    Don't think you will weaken the team .


    I think this would work as well but, it may not pull the water that is laying in a low spot. What plumbers do when trying to solder copper pipe that may still have some water in it is stuff bread into the pipe to hole the water back from the new solder joint. I wonder if you could put bread in at a fixture, you would have to diconnect at a the input side to get the bread in, and then use the vaccum to pull the bread thru. Packing peanuts would work as well as the are water soluable.

    This is getting into some pretty strange ideas but maybe something will come of it.

    Brian

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  • Cate&Rob
    replied
    Another thought has occurred to me . . . this is often not a good thing . . . Has anyone tried vacuuming out the water system?

    What seems to happen when blowing out the lines with pressurized air is that as soon as the air can get past the water in a half filled horizontal pipe, it stops moving the water. This is OK if all lines and pipes remain about half full because there is room for freezing expansion. The problems occur when the remaining water gathers at low points and completely fills a section.

    Adapting a shop vac to connect to the low point drains might assist in removing more water . . . maybe ??

    Rob

    Leave a comment:


  • Scott'n'Wendy
    replied
    Originally posted by StephenO View Post

    Like I said, I thought the ethanol based antifreeze left a taste in the system, almost like maple syrup
    My wife wouldn't let me put water in there is she thought the A/F tasted like maple syrup..lol

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  • Cate&Rob
    replied
    Scott'n'Wendy

    Agreed that Pex pipe will survive freezing . . . but the plastic fittings won’t. Many owners just blow out their water systems, but as discussed earlier in this thread, those of us who have dismantled our RV plumbing have found a lot of water still in the system after blowing it out with air. I’m not trying to change your mind . . . just suggesting that others tuning into the recent posts in this discussion read back through all the perspectives.

    Rob

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  • StephenO
    replied
    Originally posted by Scott'n'Wendy View Post
    StephenO
    It was ethanol based.
    Like I said, I thought the ethanol based antifreeze left a taste in the system, almost like maple syrup but with a chemical hint, and no I am not saying that because we are Canadian .

    Anyways, if your interested both Canadian Tire and Princess Auto carry PG water antifreeze, rated for -60c
    https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/a...p.html?loc=plp

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  • Scott'n'Wendy
    replied
    StephenO
    It was ethanol based.

    Cate&Rob
    I talked to GD, customer service transfered me to a 'tech', and was told either way is sufficient. If using air, last action is to leave all but the black valve at 45*.
    Think about it. You can't break pex by freezing water in it. Tap fixtures are high up and will not pool water. It really just depends if you have a decent air compressor to do the job. Can't do it with a can of air...lol


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  • Cate&Rob
    replied
    I would encourage those new to this thread to read back through the entire (rather long) discussion before deciding that just blowing out the system with air, is sufficient. The factory doesn’t think it is and uses antifreeze in all units shipped during winter months. An additional complication and cost that I am sure they would avoid . . . if they could.

    Rob

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  • Scott'n'Wendy
    replied
    I'll go check...

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  • StephenO
    replied
    Originally posted by Scott'n'Wendy View Post

    Back to air this year. Hate the taste of antifreeze. Seems to take at least a month to get rid of it. Went with anitfreeze last year because I really didn't know much about the Nautilus panel. Now that I'm familiar with it I'm sure it will be fine.
    Just curious, do you recall what type of antifreeze you went with last year, likely being either the ethanol based or propylene glycol based? The first winter with our trailer I used the ethanol type, which I also found left a taste for the first several trips after that I didn't like.

    After that, and reading some of the issues with the ethanol based antifreeze at extreme cold temperatures (which we easily get around here) I switched away from it to the propylene glycol. Haven't had an issue with taste yet. Only issue is the PG is more expensive, but worth it in my opinion, and it's a little harder to come by.

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  • Scott'n'Wendy
    replied
    Originally posted by Scott'n'Wendy View Post
    Glad this thread is here. This will be the first time winterizing a trailer with anti-freeze. Since '93 I have always blown out the lines with air. But since my selling dealer and several knowledgeable people on this site seem to think it is a bit risky on these trailers, I'll go the anti-freeze route this year.
    One question. Is one gallon enough?
    Back to air this year. Hate the taste of antifreeze. Seems to take at least a month to get rid of it. Went with anitfreeze last year because I really didn't know much about the Nautilus panel. Now that I'm familiar with it I'm sure it will be fine.

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  • TedS
    replied
    FWIW, the valve functions from the Nautilus P1 manual.

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  • Mike & Rebecca
    replied
    Originally posted by howson View Post

    Mike,
    If you have a Nautilus panel as shown in the YouTube video I reviewed, don't turn the red lever horizontal (which bypasses the hot water heater) leave it vertical as shown.

    Howard

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    I think that did the trick! And it makes sense after I examined the position of the hot water heater lever for the other settings. Confirmed by pulling the hot water heater drain plug and got pink antifreeze. Fortunately I didn't have my face too close - I forgot to deoressurize first amd got a nice spray. 😁

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  • howson
    replied
    Originally posted by Mike & Rebecca View Post

    I see the picture on how to set it to winterize, but what lever needs to be different and in what position, to not bypass the water heater?
    Mike,
    If you have a Nautilus panel as shown in the YouTube video I reviewed, don't turn the red lever horizontal (which bypasses the hot water heater) leave it vertical as shown.

    Howard

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  • Mike & Rebecca
    replied
    Originally posted by TedS View Post
    Set the valves to winterize, except do NOT set the valve to bypass water heater. This will allow the pump to draw in antifreeze and deliver to the water system including the tankless water heater.
    I see the picture on how to set it to winterize, but what lever needs to be different and in what position, to not bypass the water heater?

    Leave a comment:

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