Winterizing Our Rigs

[Cate&Rob]

How do you get antifreeze into the black tank flush?

There are manual pumps for putting antifreeze into the black tank flush. I use the outside (shower hose) connection which I have reconfigured to attach to a spray nozzle or the black tank flush.

(another) Rob

[Cate&Rob]

Thanks Jim. Follow-on question... the vid shows a water filter, but my Reflection 303 doesn't have one in that location. We've just always used one we put on the intake hose. Do I have one integrated in somewhere?

There is no (OE) water filter on a Reflection, other than the screen on water pump intake.

Rob

[Tom in PGH]

... I also purge the black tank flush with antifreeze as well...

Rob

How do you get antifreeze into the black tank flush?

[Ajax Trueblood]

Thanks Jim. Follow-on question... the vid shows a water filter, but my Reflection 303 doesn't have one in that location. We've just always used one we put on the intake hose. Do I have one integrated in somewhere?

[TucsonJim]

2019 Reflection 303 RLS. Looking for winterizing advice. We're in southern Utah, where its pretty warm, but can dip down to freezing. I've got a winterizing appt at the dealer on 1 Dec, but want to take appropriate steps now. And maybe won't need the appointment. Opening the low-point drains now, and then will drain the water heater. I can also plug into power so can keep heat running at low temp (should I do that?). So some initial questions:
- I have a gallon of pink antifreeze stuff, that I could put into the system. I remember doing that last year in Nov (we were static for a month). Should I do that if I keep the winterizing appt? If so, do I just pour it into the sink? Can't remember what we did last year.
- Gonna try to flush out the water tank (never done it), but do we leave it empty after its flushed?
- Anyone know a good video that shows winterizing a 303?
- Is there another thread I should review on the forum?

Ajax. take a look at the video I linked in the second posting on this thread. It will tell you how to winterize your 303.

Jim

[Ajax Trueblood]

2019 Reflection 303 RLS. Looking for winterizing advice. We're in southern Utah, where its pretty warm, but can dip down to freezing. I've got a winterizing appt at the dealer on 1 Dec, but want to take appropriate steps now. And maybe won't need the appointment. Opening the low-point drains now, and then will drain the water heater. I can also plug into power so can keep heat running at low temp (should I do that?). So some initial questions:
- I have a gallon of pink antifreeze stuff, that I could put into the system. I remember doing that last year in Nov (we were static for a month). Should I do that if I keep the winterizing appt? If so, do I just pour it into the sink? Can't remember what we did last year.
- Gonna try to flush out the water tank (never done it), but do we leave it empty after its flushed?
- Anyone know a good video that shows winterizing a 303?
- Is there another thread I should review on the forum?

[Lonestar]

Last winter was the first year with my Reflection and the Nautilus system. I live in East Texas where winters are mild but we do get occasional freezing temps.
For the first time in 40 years of owning trailers I used anti-freeze. I've previously just drained and blew out the lines and never had an issue, even in years when we had days of below freezing temps. Also never lost a pump. Even my local dealer says they only blow out the lines on trailers setting on the lot.

With that said, my fear is the Nautilus system and trying to get the water completely out of all the connecting lines. I hear folks mentioning water standing in low points of the PEX tubing, but as long as there is room for the water to expand, along with the PEX being a little more forgiving, I still question MY need to use anti-freeze.

I guess with the price of anti-freeze I'll use it until I find out differently.

[mpking]

Is it OK/safe to just use air and not pump anti-freeze through the system?

I think the answer is somewhat regional. People down south where it doesn't get below freezing, an airpurge is ok. Place like that get below freezing. (I'm looking at you Montana) need antifreeze.

For reference, here is January 2019:



From your neck of the woods, I'd say antifreeze is in order:

[Guest]

The only problem with air purge before introducing antifreeze is that this can cause an air lock in the pump which will make it difficult to draw in the antifreeze from a jug. I have never had a problem going from water directly to antifreeze. In fact, even if you blow out the lines, when you introduce the antifreeze, the first thing to come out of a faucet will be water . . . the water left in the lines after blowing out with air . . . as discussed earlier .

As mentioned in another thread, catch the water that comes out of the faucet before the antifreeze in a bowl, to prevent putting this water into your grey tanks. As soon as the faucet runs pink, let the antifreeze go down the drain to winterize the P trap and put some antifreeze in your grey tanks.

In my opinion, the air purge is not necessary.

Rob

Rob,

I've used both methods (air + antifreeze or antifreeze alone) and in both cases have not had any issues. I figured I could reduce the amount of antifreeze if I blew out the lines. Nope. One thing that did catch my attention this year was blowing out the lines while the docking station valve was set to city fill. I blew out a significant amount of water in the line that leads back to the tank that I would not have otherwise purged out. I've not seen the plumbing diagram so I'm not sure what lines are shared or not. I did remember your plumbing job and comments on so much water being left in the lines.

Good tip on catching the raw water before turning pink.

Jim

[Cate&Rob]

The only problem with air purge before introducing antifreeze is that this can cause an air lock in the pump which will make it difficult to draw in the antifreeze from a jug. I have never had a problem going from water directly to antifreeze. In fact, even if you blow out the lines, when you introduce the antifreeze, the first thing to come out of a faucet will be water . . . the water left in the lines after blowing out with air . . . as discussed earlier .

As mentioned in another thread, catch the water that comes out of the faucet before the antifreeze in a bowl, to prevent putting this water into your grey tanks. As soon as the faucet runs pink, let the antifreeze go down the drain to winterize the P trap and put some antifreeze in your grey tanks.

In my opinion, the air purge is not necessary.

Rob

[Calbar]

Is it OK/safe to just use air and not pump anti-freeze through the system?

I agree with all the others that air purge by itself is not going to be enough to prevent a frozen pipe. I purge with air first per the owners manual and then pump antifreeze through the system until I get a nice pink colour at each tap. I also purge the black tank flush with antifreeze as well. I never used to blow out the pipes in my previous trailer and never had an issue there either. Just figure I will follow the process as outlined by GD on this one.

Rob

[howson]

Anyone who has disassembled their RV plumbing system for service/repair (including me), after blowing out the system with air, will confirm that there is still a lot of water in the low sections, particularly the lines to/from the pump.

I can confirm from personal experience (from my sott hose replacement project) that every time I disconnected a line from the "empty" system there was water. "Low point drains" are a nice concept but, at least in my trailer, there are multiple locations where water pools in the lines. Air will not get it all out.

My .02: anti-freeze is all that's needed to winterize.

[Cate&Rob]

Is it OK/safe to just use air and not pump anti-freeze through the system?

There is a reason that RV manufacturers winterize with antifreeze before shipping during winter months. If air alone was sufficient, they would go with this less expensive alternative. Anyone who has disassembled their RV plumbing system for service/repair (including me), after blowing out the system with air, will confirm that there is still a lot of water in the low sections, particularly the lines to/from the pump. The pump does not like to pump air and you can’t blow air through it to clear connecting lines.

Plumbing antifreeze is cheap insurance and includes lubricating additives that are good for seals etc during storage.

Rob

[Guest]

Is it OK/safe to just use air and not pump anti-freeze through the system?

bellis

Air alone is not acceptable where much of the water will be purged from the system but not all. After bypassing my water heater, I blow out all the lines at 60 psi, then will follow up with RV antifreeze.

Jim

[bellis]

Is it OK/safe to just use air and not pump anti-freeze through the system?