Pump Upgrade (What a Difference!)

[TedS]

Ted,

Makes sense. A crankshaft or cam type shaft would push on this plunger to operate the diagram.

Jim

Whatever moves the diaphragm must be able to push and pull the diaphragm. There is no intake pressure to force the diaphragm "open".

The hoses have to have the capacity to expand and contract in order to act as a pulse absorber. Softer would be better as long as it does not fail. Flexible so they don't transmit vibration.

[Guest]

Whatever moves the diaphragm must be able to push and pull the diaphragm. There is no intake pressure to force the diaphragm "open".

The hoses have to have the capacity to expand and contract in order to act as a pulse absorber. Softer would be better as long as it does not fail. Flexible so they don't transmit vibration.

Ted,

When Howard installs his accumulator, the system may be even quieter.

The diaphragm must be operated by a crank shaft or cam since there would be a conversion from rotational motion to linear motion of the diaphragm. I would love to buy this new pump and install it, but am stressing to find storage for my rig. On a waiting list.

Jim

[Country Campers]

There is a pump silencing kit, hoses, available if you don't want to use washer hoses.
https://www.recpro.com/recpro-rv-wat...oaArNOEALw_wcB

Zooming in on the picture for this I see that this company applies the same technology as RV manufactures , soft hose with pex crimp rings. I can not tell if the fittings are pex or not but I think I can see the hose swelling behind the pex ring. This may cause another issue that we have seen , a burst hose.

Brian

[Jlawles2]

howson Howard, you could build your own true isolation mount by taking a piece of plywood and cutting out an area slightly larger than the footprint of the pump. Then mount the pump to the plywood and plywood to the rubber. this is the isolation. Now mount the rubber to the plywood with the hole in it and the framing.

Hopefully that makes sense. This gives you the flex of the rubber uninhibited by the screws for the ultimate in noise cancelation.

[howson]

howson Howard, you could build your own true isolation mount by taking a piece of plywood and cutting out an area slightly larger than the footprint of the pump. Then mount the pump to the plywood and plywood to the rubber. this is the isolation. Now mount the rubber to the plywood with the hole in it and the framing.

Hopefully that makes sense. This gives you the flex of the rubber uninhibited by the screws for the ultimate in noise cancelation.

Thankfully the pump is so quiet I can't even hear it from the living area. It's fantastic. Too many other projects and a trip scheduled in a week...working like crazy to get everything finished up!

[bogen2]

howson Howard, you could build your own true isolation mount by taking a piece of plywood and cutting out an area slightly larger than the footprint of the pump. Then mount the pump to the plywood and plywood to the rubber. this is the isolation. Now mount the rubber to the plywood with the hole in it and the framing.

Hopefully that makes sense. This gives you the flex of the rubber uninhibited by the screws for the ultimate in noise cancelation.

Jlawles2 I’m not quite following your description. So the rubber goes between the plywood attached to the pump and the floor? How do you attach this to the floor? You mention a hole in the plywood- what is this for?

[Jlawles2]

bogen2 In order to produce a true isolation mount, the pump mount screws need to be isolated from the to framing screws.

In my description, the pump is mounted to a piece of plywood with larger piece of rubber under it. The larger rubber piece is then mounted to a larger piece of plywood (creates an air gap under the rubber) that is all attached to the trailer. The rubber between the 2 pcs of plywood is like a trampoline. It allows the pump to move in almost all directions easily with minimal transmission of forces (noise) to the trailer.

If I get time I'll sketch out the parts and post.

[Cate&Rob]

bogen2

Vibration isolators come in all shapes and sizes. The ones I use were acquired many years ago from a surplus supply place. (There are many of these isolators on my boat ) Google "plate mount vibration isolation". These are the softest style but still hold the pump in position. They would not work for a vertical wall mount, but an "L" shaped frame could hold the pump vertically and be isolated from the floor.

I attach the mounts to holes in a piece of plywood and then screw the plywood to the floor, rather than attaching the mounts directly to the floor.

See attached.

Rob

[bogen2]

Here is what I ended up doing. Cut 4 holes in a piece of plywood that matched the location of the pump mounting feet. Attached a heavy piece of rubber to the board and drilled holes for machine screws at the center of the 4 holes. Mounted the pump and then screwed the plywood into the floor. Also added 2 coils of braided vinyl hose to both sides of the pump. I was going to use washing machine hoses but they all seemed to be 3/8” ID instead of 1/2” and I wanted to keep the entire system drinking water safe.

I used an app to measure the decibels from about 2 feet from the pump. Before the mod it was 78 decibels and after it was 62. A substantial improvement.

Bob

[Schiefswret]

Howard, and all here. Help! 😀 From reading all I can find here regarding my fresh tank seemingly refilling by itself, it appears that I need to order a new pump, however, I’m currently camping far from home and want to try to prevent the daily waste of campground water that comes out of the blue overflow tube and/or my manual daily draining of the fresh tank via the large white dump valve. So, is there a way that I can apply a temporary solution until I get back to home base (10/31) and install the new water pump? All inputs and suggestions much appreciated.

[Cate&Rob]

Schiefswret Hi Dave,

You could install a manual valve on the line from the tank to the pump . . . but this would probably be more complicated than just replacing the pump.

Rob

[TedS]

Disconnect the hose from the pump outlet and install a pipe plug in the end of the hose. The hose end fitting is most likely a female swivel that fits 1/2 inch pipe thread. The pipe plug needs to have a cored, hollow end to seal against the cone washer in the swivel fitting. The pipe plug can be metal(iron or brass) or plastic.

Or pinch the suction side hose with vicegrips.

[Schiefswret]

Thanks Rob, but considering I’m not in line to win an Olympic Gold Medal for mechanical skills, I suspect you are correct 😀. Are there any temporary measures that you can think of?
My only thought is to go back to using the pump since the tank seems to be filling my itself, so to speak, until I get home and that will prevent the constant overflow of campground water from the blue tube (if that makes sense)

[Schiefswret]

Disconnect the hose from the pump outlet and install a pipe plug in the end of the hose. The hose end fitting is most likely a female swivel that fits 1/2 inch pipe thread. The pipe plug needs to have a cored, hollow end to seal against the cone washer in the swivel fitting. The pipe plug can be metal(iron or brass) or plastic.

Or pinch the suction side hose with vicegrips.

Gotcha, good temp suggestions, I’ll digest those and determine if I can find the proper plug at the local hardware store if that’s the way I go. Thanks Ted.

[Schiefswret]

Disconnect the hose from the pump outlet and install a pipe plug in the end of the hose. The hose end fitting is most likely a female swivel that fits 1/2 inch pipe thread. The pipe plug needs to have a cored, hollow end to seal against the cone washer in the swivel fitting. The pipe plug can be metal(iron or brass) or plastic.

Or pinch the suction side hose with vicegrips.

Ted is the suction side the side with the soft white hose? Pls advise. TY