Pump Upgrade (What a Difference!)

[TedS]

Schiefswret, yes. The suction hose is connected to the pump filter.

[TedS]

Schiefswret, disregard my suggestion to pinch the suction tubing. Doing that will result in pressurization of the pump filter when any leaking water gets through the pump. I doubt that the filter housing will tolerate the system pressure. It would be better on a temporary basis to pinch the soft hose on the outlet side of the pump.

[Schiefswret]

So is that the soft white hose that appears to be exiting the pump on left side as looking at it from front to rear of the RV? (2020 Imagine 2250RK). TY again. Here is a pic hopefully it will help you understand my question.

[TedS]

The hose to the left of your pump is the outlet, pressure side of the pump.

[Schiefswret]

Thanks. Short of me having a better understanding of a temporary solution, I’m guessing that if I turn off the campsite water source and turn the pump back on, at least I can continue to stay here till 10/30 by simply utilizing the water from the tank and when near empty simply turn the campsite water source back on until the tank refills. I’ll order the new ‘pro’ pump model from Amazon and install it when we get back. TY

[Yoda]

Thanks. Short of me having a better understanding of a temporary solution, I’m guessing that if I turn off the campsite water source and turn the pump back on, at least I can continue to stay here till 10/30 by simply utilizing the water from the tank and when near empty simply turn the campsite water source back on until the tank refills. I’ll order the new ‘pro’ pump model from Amazon and install it when we get back. TY

Would not adding a simple check valve to the outlet of the pump work to prevent back flow through the pump to the tank? That what the internal pump check valve does and what appear to have failed. Should be easy to find simple fittings to add inline too howson TedS If it works no need to replace the pump if it still works.

Thoughts?
Keith

https://www.homedepot.com/s/1%2F2%22...20valve?NCNI-5

[Schiefswret]

Keith I suspect that you are right but even if I was near a Home Depot, had the correct tools and knowledge to do what your suggesting, I’m hesitant to move forward in that respect until I can understand;

Note: We’ve been using this rig on average of 5-6 months a year for three years and only a week ago, due to unexpected cold weather in GA, used the fresh tank for the first time.

If the assumption is correct that the system was built correctly and didn’t leave out a check valve which is critical to the proper operation of the system in question, which is difficult to believe, why would the answer be to add an item to the system that wasn’t there to start with?

I respect your knowledge and experience as I’m sure it’s far more developed than mine but I’m just thinking; aren’t the odds far greater that the problem is a faulty item in the original build (pump) and not a missing part that should have been included in the original build but was overlooked?

Could I be wrong? ABSOLUTELY, but if my choices are to add an item not included in the original build and then to discover that it was an item that a significant number of RV folks say has a high failure rate, I’m thinking that I should replace the pump first and then see if that does the trick. Just my thoughts/logic.

In any case I appreciate your (and everyone else’s) time and effort with helping me find a resolution. Thanks again!! Any and all additional suggestions are welcomed and greatly appreciated.

[TedS]

Thanks. Short of me having a better understanding of a temporary solution, I’m guessing that if I turn off the campsite water source and turn the pump back on, at least I can continue to stay here till 10/30 by simply utilizing the water from the tank and when near empty simply turn the campsite water source back on until the tank refills. I’ll order the new ‘pro’ pump model from Amazon and install it when we get back. TY

This solution will work and may clear debris from the pump check valves. The pump output may be low until all the check valves are clear. When you change back to the campsite water source, check whether or not the fresh water tank fills. If the tank no longer fills, you may put off getting a new pump.

[Cate&Rob]

Thanks Rob, but considering I’m not in line to win an Olympic Gold Medal for mechanical skills, I suspect you are correct 😀. Are there any temporary measures that you can think of?
My only thought is to go back to using the pump since the tank seems to be filling my itself, so to speak, until I get home and that will prevent the constant overflow of campground water from the blue tube (if that makes sense)

Hi Dave,

If the pump check valve is indeed leaking, and you go to pump/tank water supply, this check valve leak will allow water back through the pump and into the tank. This will cause system pressure to drop and the pump will cycle. Actually . . . now that I think of it . . . this would be a good way to confirm that a leaking pump check valve is the problem.

Rob

[Yoda]

Keith I suspect that you are right but even if I was near a Home Depot, had the correct tools and knowledge to do what your suggesting, I’m hesitant to move forward in that respect until I can understand;

Note: We’ve been using this rig on average of 5-6 months a year for three years and only a week ago, due to unexpected cold weather in GA, used the fresh tank for the first time.

If the assumption is correct that the system was built correctly and didn’t leave out a check valve which is critical to the proper operation of the system in question, which is difficult to believe, why would the answer be to add an item to the system that wasn’t there to start with?

I don't think anything was left out of the system. The pump has a built in check valve that is probably the issue. Adding an external check valve in the short term (arrow pointed AWAY from the pump). Most local hardware or plumbing stores, and even a well stocked RV place should have the parts to make this a Plug &-Play. install. You would need to just unscrew the pump outlet line, install the check valve and re-attach the outlet pipe to the other end of the check valve assembly.

As Ted mentioned using the fresh water tank may have pulled something into the pump - it is filter on the intake side?, or as you have been on City water the check valve was always seated and using the pump shifted the seal somehow.

Just trying to help
Keith

[Schiefswret]

This solution will work and may clear debris from the pump check valves. The pump output may be low until all the check valves are clear. When you change back to the campsite water source, check whether or not the fresh water tank fills. If the tank no longer fills, you may put off getting a new pump.

Tks Ted. Gotcha, I ran the water level (large white valve drain) down to about half three times to test and sure enough, when I turned the campsite water back on it filled the tank again. Tks again for your input.

[Jlawles2]

I guess you could go to the local HW store and pick up a 1/2" x 1/2" valve and put it in place of the pump. This might be the simplest and most effective block, If needed you can even use a section of nipples to make the valve a similar length to the pump and strainer so you can remove the strainer to avoid pressurizing it.

Once you get the bypass block installed, then you have the opportunity to tear into the had of the pump to determine what may be wrong. Pump rebuild parts are cheap (should you choose this option) and are basically just replacement seals.

[Schiefswret]

Thank you Joseph for your input.

[Jlawles2]

Dave, I'm thinking more of the simple quick fix as you are traveling. Hope it works out for you.

[Schiefswret]

Tks Joseph. New pump arriving Thursday. I think I’ll wait till I get back to St Pete to tackle the install, that way if anything goes south I’ll have far more resources available. TY for your input.