Upcoming soft hose removal project advise needed.

[familytruckster4]

I dove into this project yesterday and got the T line to the toilet replaced as well as the shut off installed. Now I am waiting for the toilet install later this month.
The hardest part of the job was getting the crimp off the original T under the floor. The access was tight but I managed to fit my Husky frame in there and get to the fitting. The clamps are hard to cut and even my big lineman pliers did more deforming than cutting. It came loose after some persuasion. The rest of the job was easy. I left the access open while I turned on the pump and charged the system with antifreeze. I left it on for 15 min with no leaks and no pressure loss. I am going to test it for a few more hours today just to be sure.
I feel good now that I have at least a basic understanding of the Pex world.

Edit. When I went out this AM to verify my work I noticed the pump cycle when I turned it back on. It had lost some pressure overnight. I checked my work and it looked dry and then I saw the antifreeze puddle under the low point drains. I had put 1/4 turn valves on them when we first got it but both were slowly dripping. I needed to go to Menards today so I grabbed a couple Pex shutoffs and a spare for my kit and those will get replaced tonight.

[Jlawles2]

I have found a pair of diagonal cutters to work wonders when it comes to removing the bent ring crimp bands. Choke up all the way to the back of the cutting area, then squeeze like you mean it, if you have room, the lineman pliers will do the same, but they tend to smash the bulb area a bit first.

In either case the trick has always been to get the clamp as close to the hinge as possible. I have also gone down the rabbit hole of using the lineman to smash the bulb almost flat, then with a small screwdriver spread it, and finally use it back and cut.

[TheNescios]

I'll second the diagonal pliers as what has worked best for me when cutting the crimp ring off and add spending a bit more for good quality ones will help.
And I feel you on the "husky" frame - the lower part of my pantry that was originally blocked out now has a panel I can remove to access some of the plumbing & wiring a little bit better - "husky" people have to be creative!

[familytruckster4]

I have found a pair of diagonal cutters to work wonders when it comes to removing the bent ring crimp bands. Choke up all the way to the back of the cutting area, then squeeze like you mean it, if you have room, the lineman pliers will do the same, but they tend to smash the bulb area a bit first.

In either case the trick has always been to get the clamp as close to the hinge as possible. I have also gone down the rabbit hole of using the lineman to smash the bulb almost flat, then with a small screwdriver spread it, and finally use it back and cut.

I have wanted a dremel tool for a while now so I think this is a good justification for one going on my Christmas list.

[Cate&Rob]

I covered my method of "unwrapping" Pex clamps in my Rally Plumbing Seminar. See the attachment to this post https://gdrvowners.com/rallies-aa/11...umbing-seminar. Particularly slide 21. Unwrapping these clamps is easier than cutting them and avoids the cleanup of metal bits that will be necesssary if you use a dremel tool.

Rob

[Jlawles2]

Cate&Rob Rob, I have done the un-peel method with clamps before. It works if the clamp is made that way (most are), but I have ran across a few that are put together quite well and could not get under the overlay (position issue)0 and the tabs holding it were giving 200%.

Best thing is to find a method that works for you with your abilities. Dremel tools are nice, but can make a bit of a mess, not to mention the potential for the wheel of death and dismemberment to shatter particularly at high RPM (thus high SPEED). Be careful as grinding the clamps can lead to excess heat melting the area under the clamp.

[TedS]

I've been using the unpeel method. I start with a very small, thin screwdriver to get the end lift started. I can then use needle nosed pliers or side cutters to finish the peel and unwrap. Works for me.

Where a flexible hose is needed, consider the pre-made hose assemblies in a pump silencing kit.

[TheNescios]

I'll 2nd the the unwrapping method mentioned by Rob, it works very well and often is easier than other things I've tried, and if the diagonal pliers are decent quality they'll actually grab the "tail" of the crimp and pull it out away from tab that it's locked on - or cut the crimp off depending on the level of frustration!
Dremel tool or something else powered I thought about, (who doesn't enjoy reason for a power tool) but as it seems too many times I'm stretching, twisting, or having to reach one handed to a fitting, figure I'll do less damage to myself and other RV components I'm not trying to destroy?

[TravelHabit]

I used a battery dremel (amazon.com) and it worked particularly well in tight spaces. I second the advice to be careful to not overheat the fitting. If it's taking longer just stop and wait a few moments before continuing.

FWIW, be very careful of any pex that is visible. UV exposure causes it to fail in time. I guess how long will depend on where the widow/skylight is and how much exposure it gets. A short section of 1/2 in. FIP x 1/2 in. FIP Braided Polymer Supply Line could provide better assurance.