Upcoming soft hose removal project advise needed.

[Jlawles2]

Not removing PEX clamps, but something similar, I had decent luck (if you have the had strength) is to crush the crimp with a pair of lineman pliers (I have 2 pair in stock just because) like trying to tighten it. After that, then I shove a small screwdriver or pick in the small gap created which loosens the clamp just enough to peel it off the tabs.

I've also, when there is room, used a pair of lineman pliers to just cut the crimp like trying to tighten it. This is hard on the pliers and hands, but extremely effective.

These are my go to for quick damage to most things: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-To...76079-23-12140 I am aware of materials when using them to avoid damage.

[bogen2]

I tried many different ways of removing these clamps and none of them worked well for me, particularly in a tight space. The method I found that works really well is to cut the tab with a dremel tool and cutoff disc. The clamp pops open and you just peel it off.

Bob

[Cate&Rob]

If you are not planning to reuse the hose or Pex pipe under the clamp you are trying to remove . . . cut the hose a couple of inches from the fitting and you should be able to rotate the clamped hose on the fitting (using pliers on the end of the hose beyond the fitting if necessary) until the crimp is at the best angle for removal with whichever tool you choose.

Rob

[Beachcamper]

Well after much procrastination (fear) I finally finished the shut off valve at toilet project. Just wanted to thank all of you for your suggestions. Will remove towels tomorrow when I am confident no leaks. Getting the crimp removed was very difficult had my friend Jim help me it’s very hard to get leverage in that space for both removing and replacing a crimp with my arthritic hands.

I am looking forward to also using this while boondocking to save on water as a few here advised.

[Jlawles2]

Nice looking job.

Agree those connectors can be a pain to separate. One other thing I have done is to take a pair of lineman pliers (I know they are not exactly cheap) https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-To...-9NE/100630692 and smash the crimp flat so it looks like a flag sticking out. This then allows me to grab it anywhere with the cutters on the pliers (as close to the pivot as possible to help reduce the force needed) and snip it. Even if I cannot snip it, flattening the crimp makes it a bit easier to open up.

[familytruckster4]

I am thinking of installing a shutoff in the water line when I install our new toilet. Of course its never as simple as just putting a shutoff in the line.
All of these fittings are standard 1/2" pex ? I want to know what I will need when I go to Menards. From what I see I will need a length of 1/2" pex tubing, clamps and a crimp tool, a shutoff, and a 90 degree elbow. I assume I could reuse the 90 and the female fitting on the toilet connection ?
I have zero experience with pex, I purposely paid extra for copper plumbing when we built this house 7 yrs ago, I have enough experience with copper plumbing that I can make repairs and modifications.

Scott

[howson]

familytruckster4 -- I replaced the entire line to the toilet with pex and added a shutoff. Scary project as the line runs between the floor and black tank. If I'd had a problem it would have necessitated dropping the black tank. Thankfully all went well.

Pic may give you some ideas. Since the lines in your trailer are probably OEM (soft hose), I'd stick with the connections Cate&Rob recommends.

Howard

[Cate&Rob]

familytruckster4 Hi Scott

Pex is actually much easier than copper. No heat or solder required!

Replacing the feed line to the toilet with Pex pipe and a shut off valve will be a good introduction to working with Pex pipe, crimp rings and tools. The only difficult part will be reaching the T connection to the cold water line, high up in a back corner of the plumbing basement accessed by removing the aft wall of the pass through storage. Hopefully, the other two lines to this T will be Pex pipe. These connections will be very forgiving of twisting and pulling to get the soft hose line to the toilet removed. If either of these other lines are soft hose, proceed with caution. Disturbed soft hose connections tend to start leaking.

There are many other posts on this forum about removing crimp rings, and replacing soft hose with Pex pipe. There are two types of crimp rings. The solid copper ones that howson Howard shows in his picture and the stainless steel latching kind shown in my picture. Either will work, but the latching kind are easier to remove and are the type of rings that Grand Design has used on the rest of the plumbing.

The minimum you will need from the store is a length of Pex pipe, a swivel elbow, a valve, 4 crimp rings, a crimping tool and a Pex pipe cutting tool . . . but you might want to get additional parts, in case you decide on a more complex routing, or need some practice with the crimp tool and rings.

Rob

[TedS]

There is really nothing wrong with proper hose barbs and hose and screw clamps. PEX barbs and hose with cinch clamps are iffy.

[familytruckster4]

I stopped in the plumbing section while at Rural king today. The 1/2" pex they had seemed too small until I realized the soft tubing was a thicker wall than the std pex.

If I do this mod the hardest part will likely be removing stuff from the basement to gain access to the wall. Other than that my 337 will need a length of Pex up through the floor about 6" and then a 90 to go horizontal over to the commode and then the 90 into the female connector on the toilet. Pretty straightforward. I just need to digest the whole Pex thing but I knew there was a day when I would need to familiarize myself with it in case anything else comes up on the trailer.
I already have the crimp tool and clamps along with a cutter in my Amazon cart, I need to go to Menards this week so I have a list made up. This is what I have, exactly as you all described Jims94vmx



























Thanks for the replies.

[Beachcamper]

As you can see, the 303rls has a similar situation with the lines very far in and over the converter. I had to have some friends help because of the angle and length in to crimp, I did not have the strength. But it’s done and of course turn off power before starting on the project. Luckily we did this before embarking on our epic western trip. Toilet seal would not hold water and having that shut off was super easy to exchange the base for a new one while at a campground.

[Jlawles2]

Has anyone considered running a braided threaded hose like the ones used in houses between the valve and the fixtures? Reason for this is they tend to be a bit more forgiving for making that final connection.

They also make the PEX valves with threaded connections for the flex hoses.

[familytruckster4]

I saw someone do that on TY I think. The comment that sticks in my mind was to use a "faucet" hose. Dometic lists their connection on the 310 as being 1/2" NPT thread.

[TedS]

Use hose assemblies found in a pump silencing kit. They have 1/2" female pipe swivels and cone washers on both ends. The kit includes two pipe nipples, if needed.

[Cate&Rob]

Has anyone considered running a braided threaded hose like the ones used in houses between the valve and the fixtures? Reason for this is they tend to be a bit more forgiving for making that final connection.

They also make the PEX valves with threaded connections for the flex hoses.

Just catching up to this thread. Good idea Jlawles2 Joseph ! The valve from Pex to 3/8" compression/straight thread would be easy. Making sure that the other end mates to the 1/2" male thread on the fixture end should be possible.

Rob