Water in sewer pipe every time I remove cap

[jbt816]

I searched the forum to see if this topic had been created previously, but didn't find anything. If there is a current thread, please advise and I'll read it (and delete this one).

Brand new. 2023 Reflection 303 RLS. Purchased September 2022

As the title says, when I remove the sewer cap, I get about 2-3 cups of water (don't know yet whether gray water or black) but quite a lot of water. So there are two things at work here...First, I completely emptied the tanks when the RV was leveled. Where is this water coming from ?? Obviously, there is still water in one or more tanks. This has happened to me more than once.

Secondly, after closing each of the tank valve, I'm getting water into the lines. Leaking tank seals on a brand new unit?? I've noticed that the tank handles on the Nautilus are operated via cables instead of a hard, steel rod. Are the cables not pushing the valve all the way closed??

As always, thanks in advance.

[Country Campers]

This is a very common issue. There are a few places in the lines that can hold water in small amounts and also the gate valves for each tank are good but there may be a little debris in the valve that will allow a little water thru. If the valve is bad and does not seal properly this will also allow a little water thru. Most owners add this item Amazon.com: Valterra T50 3" Hub x 3" Bay with Cap Valve Assembly,Black : Automotive on the end where the cap is and this prevents the water surprise, you may still get a little drip but it should not be much. I have seen a very little amount of water in the cap after dumping with this valve in place, most times there is no water present.

Brian

[jbt816]

This is a very common issue. There are a few places in the lines that can hold water in small amounts and also the gate valves for each tank are good but there may be a little debris in the valve that will allow a little water thru. If the valve is bad and does not seal properly this will also allow a little water thru. Most owners add this item Amazon.com: Valterra T50 3" Hub x 3" Bay with Cap Valve Assembly,Black : Automotive on the end where the cap is and this prevents the water surprise, you may still get a little drip but it should not be much. I have seen a very little amount of water in the cap after dumping with this valve in place, most times there is no water present.

Brian

So that basically screws on to the existing port and allows you to connect your sewer hose prior to opening? Hmmm.... At the same time, I have a brand new RV that really should work better than that. I have gotten into "comparison mode" with my previous Keystone. It was a great unit and I didn't have any leaking gate valves.

[Country Campers]

Yes, just remove the cap then the valve will connect the same way as the cap and then the cap attaches to the new valve as before.

I realize that they should not leak, ours did a little since new and our previous TT, another brand, also leaked. I had learned long ago that this valve is a great first addition to any new or even used RV. An added bonus is in some cases both grey tank valves can be opened and the exit valve left closed which will allow the grey tanks to equalize if there is more storage needed, usually needed in the bath grey.

Brian

[BlueDuck]

I bought the same valve for my 2021 Reflection 295RL for the exact same reason. Yes, it just twists onto the same spot you put the hose. You can put the existing cap on the end of it.

Works great and I never looked back!

[Yoda]

I bought the same valve for my 2021 Reflection 295RL for the exact same reason. Yes, it just twists onto the same spot you put the hose. You can put the existing cap on the end of it.

Works great and I never looked back!

It may not be a leaking valve, Some of the pluming runs don't drain all the way and have slight low points, so when you close the valve a bit get left behind. The when driving it moves down hill to the cap. A way to check is get some water dye (two colors) and add to clean tanks and fill them, the wait overnight and see what happens. I have the Ventura valves on all three of my dump valves - never an issue now.

Keith

[Scott'n'Wendy]

It was a great unit and I didn't have any leaking gate valves.

It's not the valves leaking. Or probably not. It's liquid in the drain pipes left after you dump. Then when you drive around, that liquid collects in the last foot or so of piping right where you connect the dump hose. You will notice that part of the piping is about 6" lower than the rest of the system...and seeing as water will go to the lowest point it can....you get it on your hands when you take the cap off.

[JBill9694]

Since only a cup or two of water is exiting, I agree that that there probably isn't a problem with the valves. That said, I will chime in on the cables for the valves. My experience and reported by others is that the cables are likely installed with too tight of bends and this may be something to correct further down the list, or when the cable needs to be replaced. Another indicator if improper installation is spring back of the T-handle when the valve is pushed close. This means that the cable, and its outer sheath are flexing when the cable is pushed on and needs to be better anchored so that the full closing force is going to the valve.

[Cate&Rob]

A small gate valve leak can happen on any valve closing . . . and, then not leak on the next closing. The design of these gates is not very “robust”. The installation of a redundant valve on the connection end of the discharge pipe is just a good idea. If you find liquid behind this end valve between complete dumpings at a FHU site (without moving the RV) . . . you have a leaking gate valve.

Rob

[Cate&Rob]

Since only a cup or two of water is exiting, I agree that that there probably isn't a problem with the valves. That said, I will chime in on the cables for the valves. My experience and reported by others is that the cables are likely installed with too tight of bends and this may be something to correct further down the list, or when the cable needs to be replaced. Another indicator if improper installation is spring back of the T-handle when the valve is pushed close. This means that the cable, and its outer sheath are flexing when the cable is pushed on and needs to be better anchored so that the full closing force is going to the valve.

Agreed that the cable routing and fastening often do not comply with cable/valve manufacturer’s requirements. On the topic of handle “spring back” . . . this is supposed to be there to assure that the gate closes fully before the handle hits the end of the sheath. A new assembly comes with a red clip that spaces the handle about 1/2” out from the end of the sheath. After everything is adjusted in the fully closed position, this clip is removed . . . leaving that 1/2” to apply extra pressure to closing the gate.

Rob

[JBill9694]

I agree that the 1/2" +/- gap is needed to make sure that the valve seats before running out of travel on the cable. What I don't agree with is that there needs to be spring back in the cable. The spring back is a result of flexing of the cable and its sheath some were along its length, I suspect must likely at too tight of a bend. If the force needed cause the cable to flex is less than the force needed to seat the valve, then the valve will not be fully seated. Anchor the cable along its length to remove the spring back and when you close the valve you will get a solid seat with a consistent gap between the base of the T-handle and the mounting plate.

[Guest]

So far we have no leakage on our gate valves. Thankful we have no cables. I lubricate the gate valve rubber with food grade silicone or silicone grease where this can help to prevent a leak or wear on the valves. If the gate valves are upstream from the cap, yes the line could be holding fluid. Fill the tanks with water and leave the cap off so see it its the valve or just residual fluid in the pipes.

Jim

[Zing]

I bought the same valve for my 2021 Reflection 295RL for the exact same reason. Yes, it just twists onto the same spot you put the hose. You can put the existing cap on the end of it.

Works great and I never looked back!

I also have the 2021 295RL. My black tank valve has never worked perfectly. I always have excess liquid accumulating (at the cap). After the first time it happened, I also purchased the Valterra valve. I don`t worry about it all year until I am closing the trailer for the season. I leave the Valterra and black tank valve open for a long period of time (at a full service site) just to make sure I do not get a lot of liquid accumulating at the other side of the Valterra over the winter.

Love the Valterra

[Zing]

Senior Moderator. can you please delete those accidental attached files for my last Zing post. Thank you

[Cate&Rob]

Attached are the Valterra cable pull gate valve installation instructions. Note the reference to the red clip (C) mentioned in earlier discussion. Also note that the cable sheath is to be clamped within 24" of the handle/gate such that it it straight in/out of the handle/gate for 6". Also note that minimum bend is 180 degrees with a 24" diameter. From the factory, the cable routing in my Reflection looked more like the "bad installation" section on page 2 of the Valterra document. New gate valves and cables, with routing per the Valterra instructions . . . and, my gate valves have worked well for years. (I also have grease fittings installed on my gate valves . . . but, that is a whole other story)

Rob

Valterra Gate Valve Installation.pdf