Tips and Tricks when Installing Wet Bolts

[TucsonJim]

I'm currently rebuilding my suspension, and wanted to share some tips about installing wet bolts. On my old suspension components, I had one wet bolt where the zerk fitting did not accept grease very well. I thought I was careful to install the grease hole at the 3:00 position, but when I removed the bolt, I found it was at the 6:00 position. The only way I could have confirmed this was disassembly. This time, I wanted to make sure that I have the bolts in the correct orientation, and that I can confirm this without disassembly. So I used a punch to make an indentation on the head of the wet bolt that corresponds with the grease hole on the shaft. Here is a photo showing the indentation in line with the grease hole, and another pic where you can see the indentation after installing the bolt in the equalizer.





In addition, if you order the shackle and wet bolt kit from MorRyde, they send the kit with the wet bolts already pressed into one side of the shackle. Unfortunately, they don't appear to place them in the 3:00 (or 9:00) orientation during assembly. So I removed the bolts from the shackles, and will place them in the correct configuration when I install the new shackles. The first photo below shows the random placement of the grease holes. The second photo shows the shackle/wet bolt in my vise with one of the old nuts placed on the threads to pound the bolt out of the shackle. You could also use a press to remove the bolt, but place an old nut on the wet bolt so you don't damage a new crush nut.





Jim

[Carl2295]

Nice write up Jim!

[Cate&Rob]

Hi Jim,

I found the same random orientation of grease holes on a similar MORryde kit that I installed several years ago. I reached out to MORryde to discuss this . . . but got no response. From my experience and related discussion on this forum . . . typical MORryde lack of attention to detail.

Rob

[TucsonJim]

Hi Jim,

I found the same random orientation of grease holes on a similar MORryde kit that I installed several years ago. I reached out to MORryde to discuss this . . . but got no response. From my experience and related discussion on this forum . . . typical MORryde lack of attention to detail.

Rob

Rob - Just a thought. Before installing the bolts, I was thinking about removing the zerks and blowing air through the bolt to see if it was free flowing. Have you ever checked the inside for debris before greasing the bolts?

Jim

[Calbar]

Rob - Just a thought. Before installing the bolts, I was thinking about removing the zerks and blowing air through the bolt to see if it was free flowing. Have you ever checked the inside for debris before greasing the bolts?

Jim

I think this is a good idea. It may even be better to pre-grease them. I have heard of some that have not been drilled all the way thru and this would confirm that it is all good and grease flows. I had several on my 297 that wouldn't take grease even when they were out. Needed to clean them out with drill bits to get them to take grease.

Another Rob

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Very nice Jim. I really like that idea.
When I saw the first pic I was thinking MorRyde was stepping up their game. Good for them! Then I saw it was your personal tweak. Great for you, Face palm for MorRyde...lol
Then the bolt orientation. Another face palm. Instead of saving you time, it probably cost you another hour.
You should offer your GTAIM, "Grease Transference Assurance Indication Marker", mod to MorRyde for a royalty of $5 per bolt set. They will get more than five bucks positive PR everytime a kit is installed.

I second 'another Rob's' opinion and would grease each bolt first just for peace of mind. A zerk can screw up too, that's why I think greasing is better than blowing out.

[Cate&Rob]

Hi Jim,

I would (and did) make sure the internal passages are clear of any machining debris. . . but, you can do this with your grease gun on the zerk before you install the bolt. This also makes sure that the zerk fitting opens properly.

Rob

[Country Campers]

When I did my equalize upgrade I had the equalizer mounted and the springs in the proper position. I then aligned the shackles and marked them for wet bolt installation, the mark was made in the direction I wanted the grease hole to be. I then installed the wet bolts in the shackles in the proper orientation.

Brian

[TucsonJim]

Very nice Jim. I really like that idea.

You should offer your GTAIM, "Grease Transference Assurance Indication Marker", mod to MorRyde for a royalty of $5 per bolt set. They will get more than five bucks positive PR everytime a kit is installed.

I should have you do my negotiating for me. I talked to Jack at MorRyde about this and he's sending me a T-shirt!!!!

Jim

[Yoda]

I'm currently rebuilding my suspension, and wanted to share some tips about installing wet bolts. On my old suspension components, I had one wet bolt where the zerk fitting did not accept grease very well. I thought I was careful to install the grease hole at the 3:00 position, but when I removed the bolt, I found it was at the 6:00 position. The only way I could have confirmed this was disassembly. This time, I wanted to make sure that I have the bolts in the correct orientation, and that I can confirm this without disassembly. So I used a punch to make an indentation on the head of the wet bolt that corresponds with the grease hole on the shaft. Here is a photo showing the indentation in line with the grease hole, and another pic where you can see the indentation after installing the bolt in the equalizer.





In addition, if you order the shackle and wet bolt kit from MorRyde, they send the kit with the wet bolts already pressed into one side of the shackle. Unfortunately, they don't appear to place them in the 3:00 (or 9:00) orientation during assembly. So I removed the bolts from the shackles, and will place them in the correct configuration when I install the new shackles. The first photo below shows the random placement of the grease holes. The second photo shows the shackle/wet bolt in my vise with one of the old nuts placed on the threads to pound the bolt out of the shackle. You could also use a press to remove the bolt, but place an old nut on the wet bolt so you don't damage a new crush nut.





Jim

Jim
Thanks for the tips. From the photo the shackle wet bolts appear to be at the 3 or 9 position if referenced against the shackle edge. In the set I have they are placed that way, or close. Are you saying when you installed you set them to the 3 or 9 position based on the shackle being at an angle. Also to press them in did you place a socket that fit the zerk to protect the zerk end as you pressed them back in? Trying to learn all I can.

Thanks
Keith

[TucsonJim]

Keith - I placed the wet bolts so that they would be in the 3:00/9:00 position in relation to the trailer frame once the shackles were installed in their final position.

When I pressed them back in, I used a socket as you mentioned in order to protect the zerk fitting. You could also just unscrew the zerk so it's not in the way.

Jim

[Yoda]

Keith - I placed the wet bolts so that they would be in the 3:00/9:00 position in relation to the trailer frame once the shackles were installed in their final position.

When I pressed them back in, I used a socket as you mentioned in order to protect the zerk fitting. You could also just unscrew the zerk so it's not in the way.

Jim

Thanks
I assumed that is what you did, just fumbled on how to say it.
Keith

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Has anybody tried the Lippert "NEVER FAIL" bushings? Sounds like they are pretty confident in them considering the name.....
All I heard about them so far is don't grease them. So std bolts...seems pretty good? If in fact, they never fail...?

[Cate&Rob]

Has anybody tried the Lippert "NEVER FAIL" bushings? Sounds like they are pretty confident in them considering the name.....
All I heard about them so far is don't grease them. So std bolts...seems pretty good? If in fact, they never fail...?

I bought a set of "Never Fail" bushings at a GD Rally. They promised that these were a perfect fit for all points on my LCI suspension. They fit the spring eyes, but not the equalizers. I probably didn't give them a fair evaluation, because shortly after that I moved to bronze bushings and wet bolts. It would be interesting to hear from someone with a lot of miles on these plastic bushings.

Rob

[TucsonJim]

Has anybody tried the Lippert "NEVER FAIL" bushings? Sounds like they are pretty confident in them considering the name.....
All I heard about them so far is don't grease them. So std bolts...seems pretty good? If in fact, they never fail...?

If you do use the Never Fail bushings, it says to not use grease. I would imagine the grease may damage the plastic. So if not using grease, you can use standard suspension bolts and save the cost of wetbolts.

Jim