Bearing service

[Scott'n'Wendy]

tighten down until it excessive drag is observed, then back off and align the retainer holes in the castles. NEW hubs do not have castles but some funky gold clip to retain the nut (NOT A FAN).

This is what I do with a 3/8 ratchet and a 38mm socket then snap on the funky gold clip. Just figure I'm not up at 50-70ftlbs when the wheel gets a little tougher to spin.

[familytruckster4]

At the 2021 GD rally in Goshen Bill Snider from Dexter stated that setting the bearing load on a new axle was important at the first service. If I recall he said they would gain about .003" of slop during the break in.
I have always used the 12" slip joint pliers method that Dexter outlines.

[Jlawles2]

As the bearings and hub heat up, this heat transfers into the spindle via the inner race of the bearing and whatever else is in the hub. I would not be surprised to find that preload and runout stay pretty close at full op temp vs cold setting.

If memory serves me correct, the Dexter manual states to torque the nut to XX ft*lb, then back off and set the runout. This is to ensure the grease seal on the back is properly seated on the spindle and may pull the cups in if they are not fully seated. This preload also sets the grease clearance between the inner races, the roller bearings and the outer races (cups).

For many many years growing up doing a front bearing job what seemed like every other weekend, we always set they by feel while rotating the hub by hand. Rotating by had was to ensure everything aligned properly and you did not miss something and have "grit" in the bearings. As stated, tighten down until it excessive drag is observed, then back off and align the retainer holes in the castles. NEW hubs do not have castles but some funky gold clip to retain the nut (NOT A FAN).

[acoleman43]

I do use a torque wrench and rotate the hub slowly while torquing the nut. This is to make sure everything is seated and working smoothly together. About the time I reach 50 lb-ft, I can’t turn the hub. I hold the hub there and undo the nut. Then finger tight and back off to the next alignment of the cotter pin hole. There should be a barely detectable amount of play in the hub when all is done. This because you are checking this cold. When everything comes up to operating temperature this clearance will be gone . . . but, there will not be any “pre-load” on the bearings.

Rob

I pay somebody else to do it. But my daughter is getting married this summer......so my bank account tells me I will be doing it this year.

Thanks for all the great advice

[Cate&Rob]

I do use a torque wrench and rotate the hub slowly while torquing the nut. This is to make sure everything is seated and working smoothly together. About the time I reach 50 lb-ft, I can’t turn the hub. I hold the hub there and undo the nut. Then finger tight and back off to the next alignment of the cotter pin hole. There should be a barely detectable amount of play in the hub when all is done. This because you are checking this cold. When everything comes up to operating temperature this clearance will be gone . . . but, there will not be any “pre-load” on the bearings.

Rob

[Scott'n'Wendy]

If Dexter followed the manual then when we brought our new RV home the wheel bearings would have been set to the proper specs, mine was so sloppy I almost cried.

I do not set my bearings to the Dexter manual. I have a hard time torquing cone bearings. I set them by "feel", been doing it that way for years with no issues.

Brian

I do the same. But 50 wet is like about 70ftlbs...which I figure is awful high...but...I'm not a mechanical engineer..so my opinion is not really worth a .......

Maybe next time I'll use the torque wrench and see how close I've been to 50.

[Country Campers]

If Dexter followed the manual then when we brought our new RV home the wheel bearings would have been set to the proper specs, mine was so sloppy I almost cried.

I do not set my bearings to the Dexter manual. I have a hard time torquing cone bearings. I set them by "feel", been doing it that way for years with no issues.

Brian

[TedS]

I was reading in the dexter manual and it says to preload the bearings to 50ftlbs. Do any of you guys actually use a torque wrench? And do you lower the torque setting for a wet torque?
I'm done with my bearings... just curious. 50 ftlbs on lubed threads is getting up there

I don't think wet or dry it matters in this case. The torque is intended to ensure the bearings are seated. After torquing the nut is backed off and pinned.

[Yoda]

I was reading in the dexter manual and it says to preload the bearings to 50ftlbs. Do any of you guys actually use a torque wrench? And do you lower the torque setting for a wet torque?
I'm done with my bearings... just curious. 50 ftlbs on lubed threads is getting up there

Scott. I would assume Dexter takes the grease into account. but yes when I had my brakes done I used 50 ft-lbs.

Keith

[Scott'n'Wendy]

I was reading in the dexter manual and it says to preload the bearings to 50ftlbs. Do any of you guys actually use a torque wrench? And do you lower the torque setting for a wet torque?
I'm done with my bearings... just curious. 50 ftlbs on lubed threads is getting up there

[Yoda]

From the Brakleen msds, it's PERC.

I think that is it.

[Scott'n'Wendy]

If you are looking for a SAFE cleaner you likely have to use lemon juice.......

[TedS]

From the Brakleen msds, it's PERC.

[Yoda]

Yoda Keith, Carbon Tetrafloride is some bad stuff IIRC. https://www.epa.gov/sites/default/fi...rachloride.pdf

I need to go back and read the label - no warnings so I may have read it wrong - never done that before though

[Jlawles2]

Yoda Keith, Carbon Tetrafloride is some bad stuff IIRC. https://www.epa.gov/sites/default/fi...rachloride.pdf