Sumo spring alternative since brake line in a way

[SD McCart]

This may have been covered before but I cannot find it. I had disk brakes installed a few years ago and now I would like to add Sumo Springs. Unfortunately, the hydraulic brake lines are completely in the way on one axle and probably too close on the other (see photos). Moving the bake lines is an option. Is there an alternative such as adding shocks that would be as effective and somewhat close to the sumo springs economically without moving the brake lines? I have never moved or messed with the hydraulic lines. Is that challenging and would that be a better way to go after some youtubing? Just for some background, I just replaced our rear axle due it being bent. I would like to help the springs anyway I can short of IS. Thanks for your suggestions.

2019 Solitude 310 GK
2018 Ram DRW

[Cate&Rob]

Hi Scott,

Sumo springs and shock absorbers (dampers) do different things. Sumos support weight and dampen motion. Shocks only resist motion. Your disc brake hydraulic lines were obviously run without consideration for a future Sumo installation. I would remove the hydraulic lines. Position the Sumos correctly. Keep the flex hose brake lines and replace the rigid hydraulic lines, routed to clear the Sumos. Somewhere (that I can’t find at the moment) on this forum are my notes on installing my own disc brake system. There is some info there on how to work with hydraulic lines.

Rob

Edit: See attachment to post 26 of this thread https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...tum-320g/page2

[SD McCart]

Thanks Rob. I appreciate the information and the link. Not sure what I would do without a project to spend some time and money on.

[Scott'n'Wendy]

From the looks of it, moving those hydraulic lines out of the way for sumos would not be a difficult task.

[Yoda]

Thanks Rob. I appreciate the information and the link. Not sure what I would do without a project to spend some time and money on.

Have you called sumo springs. Perhaps they can suggest something . I was thinking about an off set plate to move the line inward. to clear the springs - maybe a few inches is all you need Similar to the sumo spring contact plate shown here https://www.superspringsinternationa...r-sumosprings/ except you mount it reversed to relocate the brake line. There looks like there is enough slack in the tubing to make the small offset needed.

Just brainstorming here.
Keith

[SD McCart]

I will have to look at the off set plate. I had seen their website but did not scroll far enough to see that plate. Will need to call them to see if they think it would help my situation. Thanks Yoda.

I have also been trying to find some good videos for changing the brake lines as Rob and Scott have suggested. Have not found any yet, but still researching. Thanks

[Jlawles2]

Looking at the routing of the lines, is it just possible to just remove all of the fastening brackets and slide the assembly to gain clearance?

I know it's not highly recommended, but you could shorten the lines by using Swagelock compression fittings (high pressure rated)? You may also want to install 90 degree fittings on the ends and point the rubber line down, this means the bracket will need to be adjusted as the bracket holds the end of the rubber line not the steel line.

[Cate&Rob]

SD McCart. Hi Scott

Working with steel brake lines is not that difficult. The hardest part is forming the end flare, but you can avoid this by linking together pre-made lengths, as I did in my installation. Get a length of line (there are different quality materials . . . the more expensive, the more flexible) and a simple bending tool like the one I used. Practice shaping the line with no particular installation plan . . . this is just practice at the cost of one piece of brake line.

Once you are comfortable with how the tool works and how the line bends . . . this will be easy. If you can change an axle . . . you can shape brake lines! My link above has details on bleeding the brake system after you get it back together. Again . . . an easy thing to do on trailer brakes with the EoH actuator.

Rob

[SD McCart]

Thanks guys. I appreciate the advice and information. By the way. Do you have a recommendation for a good bit to drill through the frame for when I move these? I have not had to drill the frame yet. Did you use a regular drill, hammer drill or impact driver? Thanks

[Jlawles2]

Yoda I'd use a regular drill. I tagged Yoda (Keith) as he did a bit of frame drilling when redoing the axles and a few other upgrades on his unit.

Keith, What bits did you find worked best?

[Cate&Rob]

SD McCart Hi Scott,

Frame rails are mild steel. Any quality steel drill bit will work. Use a smooth slow RPM feed (not impact like you would use for concrete) If you have access to a tooling supply place, their bits will be far better than what you can buy at Home Depot or similar. Oil on the drill bit will help considerably. 10W-30 or anything similar will work.

Rob

[COReflection]

Thanks guys. I appreciate the advice and information. By the way. Do you have a recommendation for a good bit to drill through the frame for when I move these? I have not had to drill the frame yet. Did you use a regular drill, hammer drill or impact driver? Thanks

Our camper frames are very easy to drill through. Use a regular drill on low speed, with some oil while drilling. I use these drill bits in my shop all the time and love them. Made in the US, very well made and cut through most things like butter......highly recommend. 1/16 - 1/2 Cobalt Steel Jobber Drill Bit Set, 15 Pieces (1/32 Increments), Drill America | D/A15J-CO-SET | DrillsandCutters.com

[Yoda]

Thanks guys. I appreciate the advice and information. By the way. Do you have a recommendation for a good bit to drill through the frame for when I move these? I have not had to drill the frame yet. Did you use a regular drill, hammer drill or impact driver? Thanks

As Joseph mentions Jlawles2 I did do a lot of drilling and breaking bits - to aggressive. I found that HSS marked bits worked best. Most of the HD stuff dulled quickly. I tried some drill and tap bits too, but found in the soft steel if I did not stop fast enough the would bind on the tap portion and snap. I was going to drill and tap each location for the coroplast, but found it was easier to pilot drill, then use good self drilling screws like the factory used. I got those screws at Fastenall. The HSS bits I got at my local Ace hardware. They are marked HSS.. Rob also gave some good tips. On thing - as you will be drilling looking up get a good set of goggles to protect your eyes.

Keith

[SD McCart]

Thank you all.

[SD McCart]

Before I started moving brake lines I measured from the top of the spring to the frame. On two of them I have barely over 5 inches and the other two just under 5 inches not the 5.3 inches that are needed. (with slides in and stabilizer jacks up) My springs don't look flat. I called supersprings and after discussing with them, I will probably not try sumo springs at this time. Does anyone have any other suggestions, ie airbags, that may serve the same purpose? These are 7000 lbs axles. I had it weighed at a rally and the rear axles had right at 5,500 lbs on each one. This was loaded with most of what we usually take minus fresh water, which we usually don't travel with a full tank anyway. Thoughts? Thanks