MORRyde IS Shocks -- Replace?

[howson]

REPLACE?
I know the manual says to inspect and replace the shocks if they are leaking or if there's anything obvious. I don't see anything wrong, but I'm considering replacing the shocks when I install new tires (and a professional Hunter alignment check).

Would you replace the shocks with the tires?

The shocks are $38 each (more below on this) and of course all four will get replaced at the same time.

Some info in case it's pertinent: the tires and shocks will have just over 30K miles on them when they are replaced and both items will be about ~5 years old.

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PART INFORMATION
The part number for the shock is U0109-030. After searching I stumbled across a Thor forum thread that states there's a Monroe substitute, part # 555001 (credit to "rynosback" and "Cummins12V98"). The latter quotes a MORryde rep specifically in post 7 stating the 555001 is a suitable substitute.



https://www.amazon.com/Monroe-555001.../dp/B000C53RR6



Howard

[Yoda]

Would you replace the shocks with the tires?

Looking at the condition of the lower bushings I would say yes. These are RV shocks, and are probably weak by now. My preferred shock brand is Bilstein based on my truck experience. I have used Monroe for years and switched over - never looked back. I tried a quick cross reference, but could not find it. I am sure a place like https://www.shockwarehouse.com might be able to help.. They have the Monroe too - slightly cheaper https://www.shockwarehouse.com/produ...5001-gasmagnum

Keith

[TucsonJim]

30,000 miles is a good time to consider replacing. It will be interesting to check them once removed to see if they are still working.

Jim

[Scott'n'Wendy]

From the appearance of that shock...it is fine. But you really need to remove the shock to see if it is still good. It's not like the shocks on your driver where you can hear and/or feel when a shock wears out. Take it off and compress and extend it. If it does a good job resisting your effort, it is still good. I think you should be able to get 50-60K out of a set of shocks.
Or if you are more of a preventative maintenance kind of guy (I think you are) rather than getting the full life of the part, spend the $160 and set yourself up for another 5 years of not worrying about your shocks.

How do the Sailuns look after 5 years? Any cracking anywhere? sidewall? between tread blocks?

[howson]

How do the Sailuns look after 5 years? Any cracking anywhere? sidewall? between tread blocks?

Sidewalls are perfect, and I don't take any special precautions or install covers. The odd wear pattern is another reason I'll change the shocks and get an alignment check. Post 37 in my Sailun thread has the latest update: https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...235#post123235

...if you are more of a preventative maintenance kind of guy (I think you are)...

After 30 years of being a USAF aircraft maintainer--you betcha I'm a preventative maintenance guy! I'd much rather spend a few bucks and hours at home to address (preventable) issues than wait for it to inevitably break while on a trip.

[howson]

At the risk of displaying my total ignorance on the topic...will a shock on the trailer have tension on it once the wheel is off the ground? (Remember each "axle" on an IS system is independent of the others.) The regulars here may remember my hard-earned experience with the spring in the Dometic awning...I don't need another surprise.

The process in the MORryde manual reads like this is an easy task--any "gotchas"?

[Yoda]

At the risk of displaying my total ignorance on the topic...will a shock on the trailer have tension on it once the wheel is off the ground? (Remember each "axle" on an IS system is independent of the others.) The regulars here may remember my hard-earned experience with the spring in the Dometic awning...I don't need another surprise.

The process in the MORryde manual reads like this is an easy task--any "gotchas"?

They say gas charged in the information. You may meed to manhandle (compress) it to get it out. If the new ones come with the strap, get it in place before cutting the strap - don't ask how I learned this.

[acoleman43]

howson at $40 per shock I would replace. One less thing to think about or worry about for a few years

As far as if the shock is in tension...When I installed the Comfort Ride shocks, I did have to compress them slightly to fit them in place. It was done using just my skinny arms and hands, no tools. I would assume the Monroe shocks are probably similar....but may need a little more energy to compress them to a good installation length.

[Country Campers]

All shocks should extend if they are in good operating order. If you can compress the shock and it does not rebound then it is junk, at least that is the way it use to be. Some larger shocks will have straps to hold them closed, as Keith stated you want to have these in position before cutting the straps, I do know this from first hand experience. I would guess that the shocks that you have will not have straps and will hold compression long enough for installation. I agree that replacing is the way to go. If the old ones still have good rebound save one for that "need it "day if it comes.

Brian

[Jlawles2]

Due to the length of those studs that attach it to the mounting flanges and I am going to guess the gas preload, I'd err on the side of extreme and ratchet strap that thing in place with weight on it, remove one or both of the retainer nuts, then jack up the unit relieving pressure on the rubber torsion bushings on the IS. With the ratchet strap you can shorten the shock if needed by clicking the adjuster to help get those mile long studs out.

BTW gas preload on the shocks is about 25X more than what I remember 20 years ago, not to mention it's getting more and more unpleasant to lay under a vehicle and try to com press the shock manually with limited mobility due to limited space.

[BlueSky]

It looks the consensus is replace the shocks which I’d be doing as well. In my experience preventative maintenance will always be better than run to failure……there is all kinds of reliability data in industry which folks are probably aware of. I’m curious what the condition of the shear springs are after 5 years and if you’ve had any issues with them.

Lance

[Cate&Rob]

Shocks are not necessarily pressurized by design. Many are just “dampers” designed to resist motion. Pressurizing came along as a way to minimize foaming of the oil during rapid cycling . . . but I digress. But then, some tuners figured out that they could modify spring rate by pressurizing the damper even further. It might be worth a call to MORryde to ask them if the new shocks are tied/strapped . . . which would be an indication that they are pressurized.

Rob

[Scott'n'Wendy]

I'm thinking it's a pretty cheap shock....there will be minimal pressure.

[Scott'n'Wendy]

. I’m curious what the condition of the shear springs are after 5 years and if you’ve had any issues with them.

Lance

I'm curious too.......shear springs??

[Cate&Rob]

Shear Spring replacement criteria. https://www.morryde.com/wp-content/u...tion-Guide.pdf

Rob