Painting a rim

[Guest]

JBill9694 John,

For all these reasons, I would take my rims to be professionally refurbished/refinished. For some its not so easy but we are an hour or so from Detroit Wheel and Tire. Wheels on the DW's XT5 for example, are priced around $1000 each so reconditioning at a fraction of that cost is ideal.

Jim

[JBill9694]

I know that the OP has made a decision on a course of action and that this is probably all moot, but I have some final thoughts I want to share with the group.

Joseph is right that the powder coating system does require heat, baking of the coated article, to fuse the powder particles to each other and the base. Powder coating is not a DIY method, and I was not propose it as such. Joseph is also right that powder coating can have pinholes, but so can every wet system of coating, plus thin coats, runs, and drips. That is why there are methods and equipment to check dry film thickness and for pinholes. Any paint system can fail or have flaws in it, proper preparation and care before, during, and after the application of the system can reduce the chance of flaws or failure.

Speaking of preparation, we did not note the importance of ambient conditions for sandblasting and paint application. Basically, the lower the relative humidity and the higher the temperature, within reason, the better. Both of these factors should be addressed in the application instructions for the coating, usually there is a range for application temperature and a minimum deference between the ambient temperature and the dewpoint. For those planning on sandblasting at home, having air temperature above the dewpoint is key to avoid a rust bloom on the newly sandblasted surface.

[Guest]

Hm. I own a lot of tools. While I've never actually did a proper accounting - I firmly belive that I saved tens of thousands of dollars over the years doing various work myself instead of paying professionals to do it.

Of course I'm not paying myself, and I rather enjoy the feeling of accomplishment when I get something challenging done. Plus noone cares about my things anywhere near as much as I do. So almost always I do a better job than I could pay someone else to do.

But I've been on the fence with the sandblasting: a good size cabinet would take a lot of space, I'd probably cheap out on the media, it would give me an excuse to upgrade my compressor again, and I don't know whether I'd use it more than once every few years.

I'm tempted though because in my experience nearly 100% of the tools I own were worth buying. Getting the means to get stuff done opens possibilities previously not considered.

A cabinet unless its sealed tightly and with a proper ventilation/reclaiming system will cloud and impair vision. I had a cheap media blasting cabinet years ago and gave it away in short order.

An air fed mask is ideal. At a minimum a respirator and proper clothing is needed to avoid lung damage if done outside.

Here is some reading on the risks of sandblasting which may be helpful.

https://proactivesafetyservices.com/...sand-blasting/

Jim

[AndrewSmith]

Thanks for that suggestion, I never considered it! I'm adding it to my list of things to do!

[Jlawles2]

you might get away with just building a quick cabinet from a few pieces of plywood, then when done, pull it apart. Guy at work built his own cabinet like that. bought the gloves that mounted into the cabinet, and then a siphon feed gun and had at it. Biggest thing he did was to get a 500 gallon or larger air tank that he could build up pressure in (had a 150 psi compressor) then the blaster would have a larger volume to draw from. i think he could run for an hour non stop and not run out of air. Most blasters work good at 60 psi or so.

Hardest thing to do is have the window and the air filter exhaust (simple home AC filter works well) in an enclosure. Again, if you have the tools and some spare plywood, not hard to fab up a quick cabinet. They don't even have to seal real good. If you have some spare door hinges, you could even build it so that it breaks down and stores as several flat pieces (pull door hinge pins to disassemble) so it does not take up so much room.

[AndrewSmith]

For me, the cost of setting up to sandblast at home compared to the cost of taking the rim to a paint shop would be prohibitive.

Hm. I own a lot of tools. While I've never actually did a proper accounting - I firmly belive that I saved tens of thousands of dollars over the years doing various work myself instead of paying professionals to do it.

Of course I'm not paying myself, and I rather enjoy the feeling of accomplishment when I get something challenging done. Plus noone cares about my things anywhere near as much as I do. So almost always I do a better job than I could pay someone else to do.

But I've been on the fence with the sandblasting: a good size cabinet would take a lot of space, I'd probably cheap out on the media, it would give me an excuse to upgrade my compressor again, and I don't know whether I'd use it more than once every few years.

I'm tempted though because in my experience nearly 100% of the tools I own were worth buying. Getting the means to get stuff done opens possibilities previously not considered.

[Guest]

Detroit Wheel and Tire specializes in wheel refurbishing including refinishing, painting and even straightening. For those close enough to drive there it would save on shipping.

https://www.detroitwheelandtire.com/

Jim

[JBill9694]

An option to sandblasting in the garage or in the open with a respirator (depending on the medium uses, a forced fresh air respirator may be required) would be a blasting box that the rim goes inside and you stand outside of to do the blasting. Fairly common for small parts.

For me, the cost of setting up to sandblast at home compared to the cost of taking the rim to a paint shop would be prohibitive. Only if I was planning on doing more sandblasting and etching (might take up making gravestones) would I pursue doing this at home.

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Or is the mess going to take me forever to clean up?

Ya, it would. I've done a bit of home blasting but did it outside.
If you have a rim with decent paint and just want to put a different colour on it, I wouldn't strip away the original paint. Just need to scuff it, then prime, then paint. Removing the tire and stem is obviously better, but up to you if you want to. This is my opinion as a licensed electrician....lol

[AndrewSmith]

Thanks guys, sounds like great advice.

Unfortunately I think you scared me

I don't care nearly enough about this rim to be taking it to places to get stuff done to it. I'd just like for it to not look so out of place.

Though I always wondered about getting a sandblaster to give my compressor some serious work to do for a change Can I do that in my garage while wearing a good respirator? Or is the mess going to take me forever to clean up?

[Jlawles2]

I would personally avoid powder coating. The electric transfer process leaves holes in the coating. Plus powder needs heating to cure. A good painting system will work very well especially on rims. I would avoid water based systems and stick with traditional painting for the base coats. If you want the ultimate, look for a zinc rich primer (basically liquid galvanizing). Follow proper coating times and sanding between primer and top coat are not required.

[JBill9694]

Background in painting industrial and structural steel.

Surface preparation is of primary importance. Recommendations to sandblast rim are right on target. Any spec of rust or other contaminants left on the rim will prevent bonding and can result in a pinhole in the coating system. Light sandblast between coats will also help insure a good bond.

Not sure what type of paint you're planning on using, if not oil based. Recommend a good epoxy or enamel. If you want to go all out on this, think about powder coating.

Four coat system is good idea. Use different colors for the coats to make it easier to keep track of coverage.

Since the coating on the other rims have had a chance to weather, don't expect to get a perfect color match. The new paint will likely look darker, glossier than the existing paint.

[Lonestar]

Andrew, I'm not a painter but have worked around a few. I suggest you at least break the bead on the side you are painting as this will make the job much easier (plus you can pull the valve stem). If you can find a local tire shop, they should be able to pull the tire for you (nominal fee of 15 or less usually), then find a local blaster or bead blast it yourself (https://www.amazon.com/Selkie-Pressu...957278230&th=1) then paint away. If the rims are AL, be certain to use etching primer or primer specifically designed for AL work.

I'm not a painter either, but years ago I bought a used trailer and did exactly what Joseph mentions. It's a lot of work, and I bet by the time you pay for sand blasting and good quality paint, not counting you labor, you are about in the price range of buying some nice new aluminum wheels. On the other hand, you may not want aluminum wheels, but just thought I'd mention.

And I also agree, dismounting the tires will sure make it a lot easier.

[Jlawles2]

Andrew, I'm not a painter but have worked around a few. I suggest you at least break the bead on the side you are painting as this will make the job much easier (plus you can pull the valve stem). If you can find a local tire shop, they should be able to pull the tire for you (nominal fee of 15 or less usually), then find a local blaster or bead blast it yourself (https://www.amazon.com/Selkie-Pressu...957278230&th=1) then paint away. If the rims are AL, be certain to use etching primer or primer specifically designed for AL work.

[TucsonJim]

Andrew,

I believe this is the same wheel pattern you use. 15"x6" with a 5 lug 4-1/2" bolt pattern.

https://amazon.com/eCustomRim-Traile...s%2C136&sr=8-3

Jim