OK a little background on this. My new truck has the 5th wheel prep package (should be here mid march). My current hitch is a rail mount type, so I wold need and adapter (separate thread), or just get a new hitch. My neighbor has an older Patriot 18K I think. He never has any issues hitching up or unhooking on his out of level parking spot.
My first real experience with the B&W was when I had the EGR cooler failure on my 04 F350 truck in Monument Valley. The local KOA towed me (truck and trailer on the flat) the 1/4 mile to his place and got me into a spot the tow truck could get into. Were were there 3 days before we could get a tow truck from Durango (100 miles away by road) to haul my truck off to the Ford dealer and then have a second truck come get me and the wife with 5th wheel back home.
First problem I had is my loved Reese hitch would not release. I normally put the truck in neutral or backed up a bit to set things right. With the truck dead this was a no go. A couple of neighbors came to help and rocked the truck as I pulled the handle (truck in neutral) That worked. Scared a few folks when it rolled forward a few feet - but I had placed a chuck block to stop it - but it slid in the gravel.
Now when the tow company showed up with thier Chevy (550 equivalent) it had a 25K B&W in the bed. He backed right in and hooked up, even on the angle. He had an air suspension so he was able to lower the truck for rail clearance. Towing home there was zero noise or anything out of the hitch. Got home to the trailer parking spot and he backed it right in. I mentioned to him the truck would be un-level and it might bind his hitch up, but he just smiled, opened the locking handle (jaws remained closed) and pulled right out.
Needless to say I was impressed.
Now I used to rave about my Reese Titan R20 hitch. It is beautiful towing with no noise, chucking or bucking due to the isolation dampeners and tight tolerances. However on my trip to Georgia it gave me fits getting it to lock up and especially unhooking. At one stop (ground was relatively level too) I had to unlock it from the rails, lift it up and then get it to release. It was properly lubed, but the tight tolerances made it problematic.
So with the new truck, one option is a new hitch and that is what this thread is about. It will be a USA made B&W. They are the only US made 5th wheel hitch out there. But which model?
The only difference between the 20K and 25K units are the arms that hold the hitch head up - everything else is identical. The arms on the 25K are much thicker and wider. Right now, not knowing the future I am strongly considering the 25K unit, just in case SWMBO wants more room. Yes is is way overkill for my roughly 10K trailer, but I like big safety margins and the extra weight is not an issue.
I did a lot of searching , reviews, etc and the only issue mentioned is the jaws not opening up. Which is not an issue as you can drive out of them. Many folks did not know that. There was one failure in a trailer roll over accident where the arm bent enough to release the hitch head. B&W thought this was a good thing as the truck did not flip. I would rather not have things come apart, but the truck not flipping is a good thing too (Thoughts on this). There were two cases where the hitch released dropping the trailer. In both cases in looking at the pictures they had a very thick lube plate which I think caused a high hitch. B&W says 3/16" max thickness. With the handle locked I can see no way for the hitch to open based on the design. One calmed the hitch opened, then re-locked.
So any thoughts on which I should get? Good or bad experiences from those that have one?
On last question - in one video the guy once the puck lock handles were locked and clipped, he pulled the cotter pin and tightened the cam nut down - said he was snugging them up. Is that something that should be done? Instructions say to just get a firm handle lock with no play?
Also do they ever go on sale? Good online site to purchase? - I have time to wait.
Thanks
Keith
My first real experience with the B&W was when I had the EGR cooler failure on my 04 F350 truck in Monument Valley. The local KOA towed me (truck and trailer on the flat) the 1/4 mile to his place and got me into a spot the tow truck could get into. Were were there 3 days before we could get a tow truck from Durango (100 miles away by road) to haul my truck off to the Ford dealer and then have a second truck come get me and the wife with 5th wheel back home.
First problem I had is my loved Reese hitch would not release. I normally put the truck in neutral or backed up a bit to set things right. With the truck dead this was a no go. A couple of neighbors came to help and rocked the truck as I pulled the handle (truck in neutral) That worked. Scared a few folks when it rolled forward a few feet - but I had placed a chuck block to stop it - but it slid in the gravel.
Now when the tow company showed up with thier Chevy (550 equivalent) it had a 25K B&W in the bed. He backed right in and hooked up, even on the angle. He had an air suspension so he was able to lower the truck for rail clearance. Towing home there was zero noise or anything out of the hitch. Got home to the trailer parking spot and he backed it right in. I mentioned to him the truck would be un-level and it might bind his hitch up, but he just smiled, opened the locking handle (jaws remained closed) and pulled right out.
Needless to say I was impressed.
Now I used to rave about my Reese Titan R20 hitch. It is beautiful towing with no noise, chucking or bucking due to the isolation dampeners and tight tolerances. However on my trip to Georgia it gave me fits getting it to lock up and especially unhooking. At one stop (ground was relatively level too) I had to unlock it from the rails, lift it up and then get it to release. It was properly lubed, but the tight tolerances made it problematic.
So with the new truck, one option is a new hitch and that is what this thread is about. It will be a USA made B&W. They are the only US made 5th wheel hitch out there. But which model?
The only difference between the 20K and 25K units are the arms that hold the hitch head up - everything else is identical. The arms on the 25K are much thicker and wider. Right now, not knowing the future I am strongly considering the 25K unit, just in case SWMBO wants more room. Yes is is way overkill for my roughly 10K trailer, but I like big safety margins and the extra weight is not an issue.
I did a lot of searching , reviews, etc and the only issue mentioned is the jaws not opening up. Which is not an issue as you can drive out of them. Many folks did not know that. There was one failure in a trailer roll over accident where the arm bent enough to release the hitch head. B&W thought this was a good thing as the truck did not flip. I would rather not have things come apart, but the truck not flipping is a good thing too (Thoughts on this). There were two cases where the hitch released dropping the trailer. In both cases in looking at the pictures they had a very thick lube plate which I think caused a high hitch. B&W says 3/16" max thickness. With the handle locked I can see no way for the hitch to open based on the design. One calmed the hitch opened, then re-locked.
So any thoughts on which I should get? Good or bad experiences from those that have one?
On last question - in one video the guy once the puck lock handles were locked and clipped, he pulled the cotter pin and tightened the cam nut down - said he was snugging them up. Is that something that should be done? Instructions say to just get a firm handle lock with no play?
Also do they ever go on sale? Good online site to purchase? - I have time to wait.
Thanks
Keith
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