Coroplast coming down for inspection - 377MBS

[BWSTGDS]

This helps, Keith. I'm going to figure out a way to divert the drip out the pass through hole in the I-beam so I can monitor it and wipe it occasionally. It has been dripping on the coroplast for a long time and made a mess. The cylinder otherwise works fine, so would rather not replace and endure that hassle/expense.

I could repurpose the heat shields from some exhaust uppipes I replaced on my 7.3L diesel to make a sloped tray that can be zip tied to the cylinder and just poke out the I-beam hole, if cut to length.



That "wood" is just some dirty plastic wrap - not sure why it's there - I removed it.

[BWSTGDS]

I gave Lippert customer service a call today and confirmed the seals are not serviceable - they recommended replacement. At some point I'll price one of these cylinders out, but for now, going with plan B.

After some trimming around the cylinder fittings, and cutting to length, the heat shield has now become a half pipe, routing any seal weeping to the outside of the belly. It's pretty easy to inspect when the slide is closed, right above one of the tires.

[Cate&Rob]

I gave Lippert customer service a call today and confirmed the seals are not serviceable - they recommended replacement. At some point I'll price one of these cylinders out, but for now, going with plan B.]

If/when the leak gets worse and you pull the cylinder, it might be worth taking it to a hydraulic repair facility to get their opinion on whether the seals are replaceable. Just because Lippert does not stock parts for something they purchase does not mean the parts are not generically available.

Rob

[TedS]

There appear to be no features on the gland by which to wrench it off for repair. There will be no good way to reassemble the gland if grinding and cutting are necessary to remove it. Maybe welding. I saw cylinder prices from $200 to $300. I'd opt for replacement if it comes to that instead of repair.

[BWSTGDS]

Ready to get the rig buttoned up at this point. I've been working on it since I bought it in December. I will monitor the drip over the summer, and make a decision in the fall on whether to pull it apart or leave it. I think it will be fine.

A bit of a twist with the coroplast I purchased from RecPro. The website said the width was 77", but what I got was 81.75". The length was correct at 10ft. Kinda sucks to have to trim it down width-wise. I need a 70" long piece to patch the part I removed, so it lines up with places to screw it in place all the way around.

Spoke with RecPro customer service today, and they are going to make it right if they can - they were surprised it was wider.

[Yoda]

Ready to get the rig buttoned up at this point. I've been working on it since I bought it in December. I will monitor the drip over the summer, and make a decision in the fall on whether to pull it apart or leave it. I think it will be fine.

A bit of a twist with the coroplast I purchased from RecPro. The website said the width was 77", but what I got was 81.75". The length was correct at 10ft. Kinda sucks to have to trim it down width-wise. I need a 70" long piece to patch the part I removed, so it lines up with places to screw it in place all the way around.

Spoke with RecPro customer service today, and they are going to make it right if they can - they were surprised it was wider.

I mentioned this at the other place, but do not fret the wider product. Install true to one wide an use the excess to pull in place. Once done do the trim along the wide side with a good utility knife. A tip if you support the center with a long beam under a jack is it much easier to work in place. Work side to side using one edge as a guide..

[BWSTGDS]

The reason I wanted it pre-trimmed was because the section I am replacing is over the axles - hangers and stuff in the way. Otherwise, I see what you are saying - normally the overhang would be easy to trim.

[Yoda]

The reason I wanted it pre-trimmed was because the section I am replacing is over the axles - hangers and stuff in the way. Otherwise, I see what you are saying - normally the overhang would be easy to trim.

For those tight areas I used a template (cardboard) and actually bent the material so it laid flat against the frame upward. I then calked where the rounded edge was against the frame. Also did it on sections with a good overlap at a cross member.

[BWSTGDS]

I might need a picture to understand what you did there, sir.

Recpro checked their stock and, as expected, it was all at the wider width. They offered me a full refund with return of the material, or I could keep it and get a $30 credit. I did the latter. Very nice of them.

[Yoda]

I might need a picture to understand what you did there, sir.

Recpro checked their stock and, as expected, it was all at the wider width. They offered me a full refund with return of the material, or I could keep it and get a $30 credit. I did the latter. Very nice of them.

Unfortunately I don't have a clear picture. The best I can describe is at a spring hanger instead of doing a full cut out, I cut the edges 2" deep on either side of the hanger, like I was going to cut it out and rolled/folded it up towards the belly , This gave a rounded edge to calk against and a tighter fit.

[BWSTGDS]

Ok I can picture that - thankyou. Next break in the rain, I will get out there and give it a try.

[BWSTGDS]

Finally got her buttoned up. This 70" long section over the axles overlaps the front and back coroplast a few inches, with the overlap such that the wind will not catch it going down the road. Making a template for the spring hangers out of some extra coroplast was very helpful on the 70" x 77" piece i wrestled into place.






I used sealing tape that is a bit too narrow, at 2". I should have purchased 3" or 4" looking back. At some point I will pick up a roll of gorilla or flex mend tape and redo these seams. The ends are secure though under the existing aluminum channels. I cleaned the old coroplast with water and an alcohol wipe. There is some waviness in this rear-most joint where the existing coroplast was not flat. I probably should have replaced all of it.