Coroplast coming down for inspection - 377MBS

[BWSTGDS]

I began pulling down the coroplast initially to route a communication cable from the inverter/charger to the kitchen where I want to move the remote monitor. Also hoped to inspect a "repair" to a leak the PO said was fixed, but I could still see evidence of hydraulic fluid at the spot. The coroplast was reinstalled very poorly, with random screws and aluminum straps - not good. I will be fixing this before the rig moves again.





Also noted the two ducts that feed the kitchen island were not providing much airflow. The reason became obvious on inspection: Both are partially crushed, and one is torn open. The wiring is routed pretty well down here, but the insulation is haphazard - will need to arrange and add a bit more.




For the previous 3 owners of my rig, this ducting has been underperforming, and could have been corrected. I think if I was buying new, I would want a visual inspection of this area before the coroplast is buttoned up, because it can hide so much.

[Cate&Rob]

Hi Jeff,

Welcome to the underbelly world. Many of us have been down this same “discovery” path. The coroplast is the first thing installed to the (upside down) frame in the assembly plant. As such, it is evenly and firmly attached. What you describe is most likely the result of previous removal for service procedures. Solitudes (originally) have fibreglass batt insulation laying on top of the coroplast. This becomes a giant sponge absorbing any water leak. Can’t tell from your pictures whether this is still in place or not. Replacing with rigid foam non water absorbing insulation might be something to consider. I have done this (albeit on a Reflection) and also installed opening doors for all the inevitable maintenance on underbelly things. More on this buried in this forum somewhere, if you are interested.

Rob

[BWSTGDS]

Ok, I did not know this layer is installed first - that means we all need to go down this path, like many of you have. I like the idea of using rigid foam - have a bunch of that from past projects in the shop. It looks like most of the batts are there, but not all are in the right place.

Interested to see where exactly the hydraulic leak is coming from: fittings or piston seal.

The freshwater tank gets in the way of the furnace duct routing - Wonder if I could route both ducts up to the island on this side of the tank, and sneak the far one across the island under the false bottom of the island cabinets. Has anyone done that, or maybe have the heat ducting already routed that way for reference?

[howson]

BWSTGDS -- I don't recall any duct-related threads on the forum. One of the few areas in my 315RLTS that haven't been reworked, mainly because I primarily use the RV when it's warm.

[Cate&Rob]

On my Reflection, the 2” underbelly heating duct comes down from the furnace into the space between the waste tanks where the gate valves are. There are two Ts and then the duct snakes around the end of the crosswise galley grey tank and back to the freshwater tank area. I doubt that much air flow gets beyond the two Ts.

This duct is placed once the frame is turned right side up and the tanks, plumbing and wiring go in before the floor goes on. It is not uncommon for this soft duct to get crushed or torn in this process.

If you have the coroplast down, you may be able to find a route along the inside of the frame rail.

Rob

[ncitro]

I ran a new duct back to my bunk room to improve the heat for our son. The old one was crushed and miles too long. I ran a new insulated duct and if made a huge difference. I was able to run it along the frame rail as I recall, after I completely removed the coroplast.

[Cate&Rob]

Some info on adding rigid foam underbelly insulation that does not absorb water like the batt insulation above the coroplast on Solitude and Momentum. This project is on a Reflection 5th wheel. https://gdrvowners.com/forum/exterio...th-wheel-floor

Rob

[Country Campers]

I had crushed duct going to my island, sandwiched between kitchen grey and floor, also plenty of kinks and a mile too long duct.

Just glad to hear you posting on your findings, there have been plenty that have posted "going under the belly of the beast" and never heard from again, lol.

Brian

[Yoda]

BWSTGDS
The material you want is closed cell foam, used to insulate foundations. Its usually pink or blue in color depending on the brand.
Example https://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-Co...DNGX/315197962

One tip - use a straight edge across the frame sideways to tell you how thick you can go. I learned that the hard way
These threads might help
https://gdrvowners.com/forum/exterio...flection-220rk
https://gdrvowners.com/forum/exterio...lacement/page3
And this thread on my foam install. The foil barrier was not used on your model.
https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...flection-220rk

Hope this helps
Keith

[BWSTGDS]

Lot of good info from you all that have gone before - thankyou!

A section of the coroplast is now removed, along with the cellular/reflectix and fiberglass insulation that was laying on top of it. I'll need to source some additional underbelly material, so I can terminate it at a floor joist, instead of out in space as it is now, near the freshwater tank.




You can see the old electric brake wiring - I think I might re-purpose/extend it to the rear of the trailer for back-up lights.

[Yoda]

The coroplast and bonded foil barrier is available from GD direct or I think RecPro. Just do a search The thread I posted above on my install list the sources I found.. There are others

[Scott'n'Wendy]

I don't have hydraulic brakes, but I'm surprised to see the line that runs across the trailer just hanging free air with no support. I would think a couple of bends and secured to the axle would be the way to go.
Can't help but think that line must oscillate in the air when going down the freeway at speed.

[Cate&Rob]

If you are replacing the coroplast, you might want to consider opening doors for future service. How I did this is buried in my plumbing system rebuild attachment to post 5 of this thread https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...anks#post16608. I am surprised that no one else has done this . . . I have those doors open at least once a month lubricating or checking on something.

Rob

[BWSTGDS]

Yoda I see GD just gave you underbelly material - that's cheating! I will try that though and give them a call. Otherwise, it looks like Recpro is the spot.

Just tried my remote valves - none of them will operate, so I will service them when the coroplast is down. Cate&Rob looking at your lubricated gate valve mod with interest.

Scott'n'Wendy those brake lines are normally secured against the coroplast - I just had to bring them down to remove the belly material. I will see if I can attach the line going across at a few more points though.

[Yoda]

Yoda I see GD just gave you underbelly material - that's cheating! I will try that though and give them a call. Otherwise, it looks like Recpro is the spot.

Just tried my remote valves - none of them will operate, so I will service them when the coroplast is down. Cate&Rob looking at your lubricated gate valve mod with interest.

Scott'n'Wendy those brake lines are normally secured against the coroplast - I just had to bring them down to remove the belly material. I will see if I can attach the line going across at a few more points though.

Not Cheating!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

You need the rest of the story

After coming back from Alaska ,I discovered at least 8 frame cracks, and the welder found more.

After a long discussion with Lippert and GD.,They (Lippert) agreed to fix the frame crack at GD discretion. Grand Design through good will sent me the coroplast and foil as I had to remove everything so the welder could fix the frame. MY belly fabric had also gone thought the Molex repair and other damage from the dealer doing warranty repairs. It was a mess. I sent pictures and asked if they could help. Other than the welding which Lippert covered (search 220RK frame repair with my user name) I took care of everything else.

Withe all the bad rap GD is getting they stood up to Lippert and help me get things resolved. A+ in my book.

Keith

Now as far as your remote valves sticking, remove the handle and thread some clear tubing on the threads and fill the tube with WD40 or PB Blaster (ATF is good to) and let it soak overnight with the tube taped to the sidewall so the oil can penetrate the cable housing..

Safe travels