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**Yoda** · 09-05-2019, 09:19 AM

Good morning Emily
Brad has not gotten back yet. He was going to get with Jim first to work out a solution, then get to me. I know Brad needed to pull up the structural plans. My trailer is a 2018 220RK Reflection.
Thanks for getting back. Hope all is well with you and the family.
Keith
GDRV-Emily

**TucsonJim** · 09-05-2019, 09:54 AM

Originally posted by GDRV-Emily View Post

TucsonJim did Brad get you the info you needed yet? If not, I can bump him!

GDRV-Emily, I emailed him over the weekend, but haven't from him yet.

Jim

**TucsonJim** · 09-07-2019, 09:39 AM

Brad Smith (GDRV) pulled the wall prints for the three units mentioned in this thread (2017 297RSTS, 2018 220RK, (Unknown Year) 230RL). On all three, the prints show that the Electrogalvanized Steel sheet metal runs the length of the awning arm. I proposed the following repair to Brad and he concurs that this is an acceptable method. I should be home from my summer travels in a few weeks and I'll perform the repair at that time and document it photographically. If any of you perform the repair, can you please post some photos, and let me know if any changes need to be made to the repair instructions?

1. Drill two 1/4" pilot holes in one awning arm near the notched cut-out on the side rail. Do not penetrate the fiberglass. (Need to verify drill bit size)
2. Drill two 3/16" pilot holes through the fiberglass and the EGS. Do not penetrate more than 1/2" to prevent interior damage. (Need to verify drill bit size).
3. Insert a piece of butyl tape between the awning arm and the fiberglass.
4. Insert two #14 x 1" hex washer head sheet metal screws into the pilot holes and tighten until the arm is snug with the RV wall. Do not over-tighten.
5. Repeat steps 1-4 for the other awning arm.

Here is a source for black butyl tape that should do the trick:
https://www.amazon.com/XFasten-8-Inc...gateway&sr=8-4

NOTE: These repair instructions have not been verified yet. Please proceed with caution if you elect to perform the repair.

**Yoda** · 09-07-2019, 10:31 AM

Jim Thanks so much. Please let Brad know too.

This is fantastic news on the full length backing plate.

Question - would it not be better to drill the small 3/16" pilot hole all the way through the frame metal and fiberglass/backing steel first, then enlarge the frame hole to 1/4"? That would keep the screw centered in the small pilot hole, or are you wanting to push the frame home before drilling the smaller pilot hole? Pushing the frame home someway before drilling sounds better the more I think of it. As for the hole locations I was thinking just above the notch as the strut folds into the channel below that point. I am rethinking this after looking at the bow and where it needs to be pulled home. Ill check screw clearance on my front arm as it is less bowed and still runs fully home. Was thinking about the screw head clearance to the strut. Ill try and check that with some clay I have somewhere, or tape a few penny's together to simulate the screw head depth before you get home. Were you planning to have the screws side by side as they are lower in the channel? I am assuming the screws need to go through the butyl tape? Current screws run through a foam gasket.

I think HD has both the tape and screws, or my local Ace hardware store, so I am all set there. I like you choice of the stainless steel ones to prevent any corrosion.

With the butyl may I suggest a series of screw tightening as the tape will compress over time. I found a bit of slack in the existing screws the last time I checked. I would do it 3 times - a day apart. Thoughts? Maybe run this by Brad?

The engineer in me is brainstorming here. but that can be dangerous. But you can tell me to go to my corner if needed

Thanks again
Keith

**Yoda** · 09-08-2019, 12:55 PM

I just found the link to the installation manual. Don't know it it helps any. Bottom of page 3 shows the hardware supplied. Page 12 shows back channel install. When it stops raining I will check mine. I don't remember seeing that many screws. I just checked - no holes above strut as shown in the manual, so this might not be the correct manual?
https://www.dometic.com/en-us/us/sup...wning-_-199048

I have also sent my pictures to them for comment. Ill report if they answer back. The SKU and model I have will not pull up on their site - must be a special run for GD.

Hope this helps
Keith

**Yoda** · 09-12-2019, 06:08 PM

@GDRV-Brad-Smith TucsonJim GDRV-Emily Folks I started in on the repair today. Extended awning all the way out and wanted to verify the hex head #14 screw length. The 1" is correct. The factory used 1" #14 self tapping (I removed one to check). Emily, please let Brad know there is an issue here. All the screws were loose (1/2 turn to snug) on the awing back channel and 3 were stripped (would not snug up with light pressure). This was just for the one side back channel that has 8 screws. I also discovered two empty screw holes directly under the strut attachment point. I plan to us these and 2 additional pair above to pull the back brace flat. With the awing out it is easy to flex the back channel.

Now the structure behind the back brace is confusing. I do not see any substantial metal and in probing it, its just foam behind - no aluminum wall stud. This is on the door side back channel. There may be a very thin 1/16 or probably less sheet there right behind the fiberglass outer surface but not sure. What should I be seeing and feeling when probing these holes?

Now to repair the stripped screws. The next size up is 5/16" from the #14 which is the same as 1/4" I believe. 5/16" may be bigger than the back channel hole, but that can be drilled out. It may also interfere with the channel folding up. Or I can fit some of the thin expanded metal furniture repair strips into the hole (folded over and trimmed flush) with a dab of Gorilla glue to help fill the void. Let it dry and try the #14 again. Gorilla glue expands but I don't know if it is compatible with your foam substructure. This is what I have locally. I tried to find some short expanding wall mollies (center cone wedge pulls in to expand the outer casing similar to the rivets but uses a nut on thread) or Stainless-Steel-Wedge-Anchor. It needs to be short for the back brace thickness and skin to metal thickness.

On edit - would a rivet nut work? If so which ones?

I am a little frustrated with what I am finding for a new trailer (used 3 times)

Ill stop where I am at until I hear further what Jim finds.

Hope this is all helpful
Keith

**Yoda** · 09-13-2019, 12:13 AM

Superduty
Thanks - I have not checked the awning screws yet - the ones along the fabric channel. Thanks for the reminder to do so. The screws I am finding striped are on the hardware channels that move in and out, in particular the backing channel attached to the trailer wall.

I want to be able to remove parts in case of needed service. My big concern is why are these screws striped to begin with. Wrong setting on the drill driver and not caring if they strip - leave it for someone else - at the factory? They are not even the correct screws per the Dometic manual (not self tapping), nor were they placed per the install manual (all holes marked,drilled,and installed). Whats more confusing is Dometic gave me differing solutions depending on whom answered my emails. This is a new trailer (had it just over a year) and I should not be having to fix this - let alone speaker wiring and bad water connections.

Whats more depressing is I dropped by my dealer today to get the butyl tape (at least they had it). I asked about the awning - seemed to be a known problem. and their solution would be to drill new holes and use the moly type rivets............................................ .............................................
And they still think the Dicor is OK to use on the TPO roofs. Its the same stuff I got at the Colorado rally which is the wrong material. So whom do I trust now? Good thing I ordered the correct stuff from Camping world. Then I can go up and remove the white Dicor they used on my visible beige seams due to bubbling and openings showing up at 6 months.

Now don't get me wrong - I still like my unit as it is perfect for the two of us. Structurally it appears to be built well. However - If I was not actually somewhat skilled at making repairs, I wonder where someone else might be?

Well enough of my soap box - now lets find a good solution.
Keith

BTW I can try and post the Dometic installation manual if needed and allowed. I want to keep this positive in finding a fix.

**Yoda** · 09-13-2019, 12:55 PM

I thought of another possible way to repair the screw holes. I can get fluted hardwood dowels that I can cut to the hole depth. Then epoxy or gorilla glue them in. Once dry I would pre-drill for the #14 hex screw. Then screw in. While the dowel may split, it may provide enough interior surface to hold. I could also get some plastic wall mollies that measure the 1/4" and trim to fit inside the hole (flush with surface) again once dry pre-drill for the #14 hex head screw. I believe the correct pre-drill hole for the #14 hex head screw would be 5/32" or 1/8" if I remember correctly for soft material like our wall structure. 3/16 may also be correct if the metal in the wall is hard. Any thoughts or ideas on this? Just brainstorming.

Thanks
Keith

**Yoda** · 09-14-2019, 04:03 PM

OK - I am trying and experiment.

One of the striped screw holes is at the bottom of the forward brace and in the wall between the front pass through and propane tank. I choose this as the test hole as I can feel inside if something went wrong with the glue.

How this experiment began;
I got to scratching my head this morning and went looking for something to fill the striped holes. I thought about heli-coils that I had used years past and split brass inserts for plexiglass and soft medals. However none exist for a #14 sheet metal screw. While rummaging through my saved box of what knots (my hoarding of scraps) I happened upon one of my used flux/acid brushes used for soldering/plumbing https://harborfreight.com/36-pc-12-i...hes-61880.html . After looking at it for a second I had a Green Acres moment - no it couldn't work....But.... The handel barrel is about 3/8 diameter, but will compress as the metal is rounded and overlapped. as I had it between my fingers I squeezed and the brush barrel reduced in size fairly easily.

So I pulled one of the striped screws out and tried fitting the brush handle into the hole through the backing frame. After a little wedging the handle compresses on itself and slid right in. Eureka - I now had meat for the screw to bight into.

After probing the hole depth and found it to be a little more than 1 1/4" so I cut a one inch section out of the brush handle.

I then put some gorilla glue in the stripped hole, and a pea size dab of gorilla glue in the one inch barrel I had cut from the brush. then inserted it in the hole and pushed it in to just beyond the metal backing plate using another brush that I had necked down. I am letting it cure until tomorrow then will know if this solves the striped screw. I am hoping it will bight into the soft metal of the barrel and expand it behind the plate in the wall. I will drill a pilot hole first.

BTW when using gorilla glue be sure to tape off the wall for a few inches below the hole for the drips that will occur.

Ill report tomorrow on how this went. Thoughts?

**Yoda** · 09-15-2019, 11:35 AM

Partial success. One held, and one spun out with the pilot drill. The one that held was partially deformed. The one that spun out was smooth. Next I will try epoxy, but need to drop by my local COOP to get some small plastic syringes to get the epoxy in the hole. Also need to pick up some plastic golf tees to plug the hole while the epoxy drys. Had a bit of a mess to clean up this AM as one leaked the gorilla glue. The golf tee can also possibly expand the barrels I made to be behind the backing plate inside the wall. Thankfully I was still able to peal it off the side. Its going to rain today so I will put it off tell tomorrow. Any thoughts so far - everyone is being pretty quiet.

Thanks
Keith

On edit - I also plan to pick up some hex head 1" long 5/16 - 18 screws to try. Tractor supply has them. I think they are the next size up from the #14? Correct me if I am wrong on this.
Thanks again

**Guest** · 09-15-2019, 02:12 PM

Keith,

West Systems makes fantastic epoxy products and a ground fiberglass powder that is commonly used to fill holes in marine applications. This powder is mixed with the two part epoxy to the consistency of peanut butter. They also sell applicators to inject this material to completely fill the hole. You may want to seek GDRV approval to use this product to fill the stripped holes and to find an alternate location for a fresh bite on the wall material.

Jim

**Yoda** · 09-15-2019, 02:30 PM

Thanks - Learned something new - Ill check it out. GD your thoughts on this?

**Guest** · 09-17-2019, 05:50 AM

Keith,

These are the products I have used for marine applications. There are applicators to pump the material into the holes as well.

https://www.jamestowndistributors.co...Epoxy+Syringes

Jim

**Yoda** · 10-12-2019, 04:27 PM

Just an update. Unfortunately the Force has not been able to calm the weather here. If the wind would calm down and temperatures stay warm (15 the other night) I might be able to get my fix underway. I have the parts, the epoxy, the filler, and assorted drill bits, fastners, and the will to drill fresh holes in the side of my new camper. I need a clam warm morning, a fresh pot of coffee, and my head in gear.

I am concerned with the wind. To get the fix done correctly I need to partially move the backing channel away from the trailer. To do this I need to remove about half of the fasteners. To drill the holes the awning needs to be extended most of the way. It appears to be a fairly quick job, but one gust of high wind will make a mess of things. Any thought on stabilizing the extended awning during the process is appreciated.

Thanks
Keith

**TucsonJim** · 10-12-2019, 04:31 PM

Originally posted by Yoda View Post

Just an update. Unfortunately the Force has not been able to calm the weather here. If the wind would calm down and temperatures stay warm (15 the other night) I might be able to get my fix underway. I have the parts, the epoxy, the filler, and assorted drill bits, fastners, and the will to drill fresh holes in the side of my new camper. I need a clam warm morning, a fresh pot of coffee, and my head in gear.

I am concerned with the wind. To get the fix done correctly I need to partially move the backing channel away from the trailer. To do this I need to remove about half of the fasteners. To drill the holes the awning needs to be extended most of the way. It appears to be a fairly quick job, but one gust of high wind will make a mess of things. Any thought on stabilizing the extended awning during the process is appreciated.

Thanks
Keith

Keith. Just a thought on supporting the awning. How about something as simple as a forked branch cut to length? You could also strap the branch in place with a couple of tent stakes and a tie-down strap.

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Awning bowing from trailer - will not close properly.

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